what is a presentation knife

30 Types Of Knives, Explained

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Knives are a must-have item for any home chef. Whether you're slicing onions for a homemade sauce or cutting through a crusty ciabatta for Sunday dinner, you'll need to turn to a knife for a helping hand. But, with the sheer number on the market, how do you decide which style of knife to use? And if you're stocking your first home kitchen, how do you decide which knives are most essential?

When looking to purchase cutlery, you should consider a few important factors. First, what do you plan to do with the knife? If you are a vegan, purchasing a carving knife or an oyster knife just isn't practical. If you only have a budget for a few knives, you should consider which types will offer the most utility. 

Equally as important as purchasing a knife is purchasing a sharpening set to ensure your blades are ready to go whenever you need them. Here is our comprehensive guide to the different styles of knives on the market.

Paring knife

A paring knife embodies the phrase "small but mighty." It is a knife most practical for trimming fondant from a cake or removing pepper membranes. Unlike a utility of a chef's knife, the paring knife has a much smaller blade that can easily maneuver in small spaces. Your ideal paring knife should be about 3 inches in total to maintain its maneuverability.

Paring knives come in several blade shapes. A sheep's head, for example, is a straight blade ideal for chopping garlic or cherry tomatoes. Unlike other types of knives, you won't have to rock the knife on the cutting board. Don't use this small blade for cutting through meat — instead limit use to small veggies, spices, and shrimp peels. When you hold a paring knife, you should try to grip the handle with three or four fingers and your thumb to rhythmically chop through small morsels. Above all, keep your paring blade sharp, so it's ready for whenever you need it.

Chef's knife

The second most important knife to have in your kitchen besides a paring knife is a chef's knife. We polled home cooks and found 40% of those surveyed consider a chef's knife the most important in the kitchen compared to other types — and for good reason. This multipurpose knife measures between 8 and 10 inches and offers a seamless mincing, dicing, and chopping experience for vegetables, herbs, and everything in between. 

Unlike other knives, the chef's knife has a double-bevel blade and a sharp tip. According to Made-In Cookware , a chef's knife utilize a rocking motion to slice through food with ease. Made-In notes that the chef's knife is one of the most utilitarian knives because it can be used for julienning carrots, spatchcocking chicken, or cutting onions. The one exception for when a chef's knife may not be the most optimal kind of knife to use is when slicing watery vegetables like cucumbers, according to the cookware manufacturer. Knives such as a  Santoku knife, with a fluted blade , cause the wet vegetables to slide off easier from the blade, which can in turn slice down prep time.

Utility knife

Chef Alton Brown recommends having a utility knife  in your kitchen arsenal. At less than 6 inches, a utility knife is the go-between option if you don't have a paring knife or a chef's knife. It's perfect for slicing fruit for a fruit salad or preparing soft veggies for a stew. You can also purchase a utility knife with a serrated blade for slicing through crusty bread — this type of serrated knife has the name of a "sandwich knife."

According to Bustle , utility knife blades can come in many different materials including stainless steel, carbon steel, and ceramic. For folks seeking a long-lasting knife with minimal risk of chipping or upkeep including sharpening, we recommend purchasing a classic stainless steel knife or a lightweight version made out of ceramic material. You'll find that handles come in plastic, thermoplastic, or wood handles, depending on user preference and price point.

Boning knife

A boning knife is essential for carnivores to have. These thin knives are razor-sharp and used to cut apart pieces of fish and meat with bones. Since so much meat is sold at the grocery store boneless, most home cooks won't need to worry about having one of these knives in a kitchen block. 

Per Field and Stream , boning knives are essential for folks who hunt or fish regularly and want to debone meat with ease. The blade on a boning knife is flexible for working around bones, cartilage, and connective tissue like tendons and ligaments, explains the site. You can purchase boning knifes made out of hard metals or soft metals. Hard metals are more durable, long-lasting, and expensive, but you will constantly have to sharpen these knifes to maintain optimal performance, per Field and Stream, while soft metals are generally less expensive, more flexible, and easier to sharpen than hard metals. But, you might have to sacrifice durability on those knife materials. The sheer abuse a boning knife can take in a kitchen makes many users more keen to soft metals, and Field and Stream finds these types are easier to hone and get back into work with.

Serrated knife

Serrated knifes can come into many uses in the kitchen, but one of the most popular ways to use this knife is to cut bread. The teeth on a serrated knife make cutting and slicing easier than a sharp chef's knife or a cleaver. These unique knives can come in a variety of shapes and sizes, from the size of a measly utility knife to the impressive 10-inch chef's knife. 

 While serrated knifes require infrequent sharpening compared to other kitchen knives, you will have to take some precautions to ensure the quality of the blade. You'll have to sharpen each tooth with a honing rod to ensure that each burr is sharp enough to slice through ciabatta without turning it into crumbs. Then, you'll want to remove the tiny metal fragments (known as burrs) from the knife before returning it into circulation. Remove the burrs with sandpaper or using the side of your whetstone. 

Nakiri knife

Per Made-In Cookware , a Nakiri knife is a Japanese style knife with a thick blade. This knife resembles a cleaver but with a few distinct differences: It has a thin, symmetrical blade perfect for chopping. Unlike a chef's blade that uses a rocking motion, the shape of the Nakiri is ideal for up-and-down chopping, explains Made-In Cookware. The Nakiri blade is also distinct because it will sit flat on the cutting board. 

At about 6 inches in length, this knife is useful for maintaining control over the blade and maneuvering through small cavities, finds Made-In Cookware. However, the square edge of this knife limits how it can be used for deep cuts in the kitchen. The Nakiri is perfect for chopping herbs, garlic, or onions. You should opt for another knife instead of a Nakikri for chopping meat and dense vegetables like carrots, says Made-In, because the blade of the Nakiri is much too thin to sustain heavy damage.

Santoku knife

A Santoku is another Japanese knife used in the kitchen. Per Kamikoko , the Santoku, like the chef's knife, can be used for everything from cutting vegetables to slicing fruit and come in a variety of materials for both home and professional use, such as ceramic and stainless steel. The Santoku knife has a much thinner blade than a chef's knife and is lighter in weight. Santoku knives can include an either single-sided or a dual bevel. Some types of Santoku blades come with Granton edges, which can make food much easily to slide off the blade. This is why a Santoku is preferable to a chef's knife for slicing wet vegetables and foods, says Kamikoko.

Santoku knives typically vary in size but range from 6 inches to 7 inches. The word "santoku" refers to the "three uses" of the knife in Japanese: chopping, dicing, and mincing. You can use the Santoku to slice cheese, chop meat, or scoop food off a cutting board with its wide blade.

Yanagiba knife

The Yanagiba knife is especially useful for cutting thin fish and sushi. In Japanese, the name translates to "willow-leaf blade," which reflects its shape and daintiness. The Yanagiba knife has a single blade concave to one side, and the angle makes cutting fresh fish especially easy because there is less contact between the flesh and the bones. This preserves the soft texture of the fish and provides an easy release once the fish has been sliced.

Yanagiba knives are best suited for slicing boneless filets of raw fish, filleting small and medium sized fish, and skinning a variety of fish for sushi. The thinness and shape of the blade does not make this specialty blade conducive to other kitchen applications, so you are best keeping a chef's knife or a paring knife handy for cutting through meat or vegetables. If you are a sushi or sashimi enthusiast, though, you are best off purchasing a Yanagiba knife for your home kitchen.

Carving knife

A carving knife is important to have for Thanksgiving , but how useful is this type of knife otherwise? Per Culinary Lore , the ideal purpose of a carving knife is to cut uniform pieces of poultry and meat. The carving knife is more narrow than a chef's knife and can range in size up to 14 inches, and the culinary site explains that the larger the carving knife, the easier the slicing will be and the less damage to the meat. Most modern carving knives contain Granton edges to help the meat slide seamlessly off the blade. You might find carving knives with rounded tips in some professional applications (such at buffet carving stations), says Culinary Lore.

One item that has surged in popularity is the electric carving knife . When the applianced it powered on, the two blades simultaneously cut through meat with ease. But, the practicality of this type of knife is minimal because of the difficulty to clean it, as well as the infrequent use for this appliance in most households.

Butcher knife

The cleaver is a scary knife to look at, but it is important to have in a carnivore's kitchen. This knife, which is also known as a butcher knife, is a rectangular blade with a front-heavy weight in the blade of the knife rather than the handle.  The New York Times  says the cleavers are separated into two separate categories: meat cleavers (guado) and vegetable cleavers (caidao). The meat cleaver has a thicker blade for hacking through meat while the vegetable cleaver is a little more dainty, says the news site. The chopping cleaver is a hybrid between these two types with a thick heel and thin front — making it an especially useful tool in the kitchen. 

You can use a cleaver for many uses outside of slicing. One creative way to use your cleaver is to scrape ingredients across a cutting board with its wide berth. You can also pound a chicken breast with the butt of a cleaver, descale the fish using the bolster (armpit) of the cleaver. Choke up on the cleaver to peel apples for an apple pie — just don't use the cleaver for round foods because you'll find these pesky foods difficult to cut without losing a finger.

Tomato knife

A tomato knife is a small, serrated knife most commonly used for slicing tomatoes. These serrated blades are easily identified for the two points on the tip of the blade used to lift and move the tomato slices after the pieces have been cut. According to Kitchen Crews , the two tips on the blade can also help easily remove the core of the fruit, so you can pick the peel of the tomato with the tip of the knife without destroying the flesh of the fruit.  The Crowded Table  further notes that a tomato knife needs serrated edges to slice through tomatoes with ease.

You may also hear the tomato knife referred to as a fork-tipped utility knife. The tip on this knife is perfect for cutting through citrus fruits or spearing cocktail garnishes as well. Delighted Cooking notes that the tomato knives are made with stainless steel — a material that is comparatively easy to sharpen.

Butter knife

No proper place setting would be complete without a butter knife. Once you have a good butter knife set for your kitchen, you won't need to purchase another for the foreseeable future. Unless you have a butter dish with a soft bowl of butter, slicing through the butter would be impractical with a standard kitchenware knife (via the Charlotte Observer ). The shape of the butter knife is perfectly for evenly spreading peanut butter, hazelnut spread, or cream cheese on your favorite crackers, too. Butterknives are also safer for cutting through soft things than standard knives.

Most butterknives are made from stainless steel, but some handles can be coated in a thin plastic layer for better gripping. If you're looking for a cheap butter-knife for your home kitchen, your go-to should be the Amazon stainless steel butter knife with rounded edges. A dozen of these knives costs a mere $15.22.

Salmon knife

A salmon knife is a unique type of carving knife used for carving salmonoids like trout and salmon. According to Soho Knives , salmon slicing knives are usually more than 10 inches long; this allows the preparer to be able to reach around and filet the salmon with ease. The blade for this life is long, thin, and rounded at the end to prevent damaging the salmon.

You can purchase a salmon knife with clefts to slice through salmon with ease and prevent any parts of the fish from sticking to the blade. Although this type of knife is almost used explicitly for cutting through salmon, you can use a salmon knife in place of a ham slicer, per Knives and Tools.  Most salmon knives are made of steel for longevity and longterm durability. We recommend hand-washing these knives to prevent warping or damage to the blade from a dishwasher.

Steak knife

Everyone needs a good set of steak knives for the summer grilling season. These small knives have a serrated blade with a sharp tip for simple slicing thick steaks, pork chops, and even potatoes. The standard steak knife either has a wooden or a plastic handle for easy maneuvering and comfortable cutting.

You can purchase a variety of shapes and sizes of steak knives depending on the feel you want. If you don't want to hone and sharpen each individual tooth on a steak knife, you can purchase a non-serrated steak knife for easy cutting. If you want a durable knife, you might also consider purchasing a knife with a resin to better maintain the steel and longevity of the steak knife. The average steak knife can range in price from the Chicago Cutlery four-piece walnut set  around $30 to the Wusthof Classic four-piece set  at over $300.

Peeling knife

Peeling knives are the perfect thing you need in the kitchen for when your vegetable peeler grows legs and walks away. According to Knives Academy, a peeling knife ranges in size from 3 to 5 inches and is commonly called a "bird's beak knife" because of the concave shape of the blade faces toward the inside rather than the outside. This blade is also rigid so it can easily cut through peels. The shape of the blade makes peeling circular fruits, like apples, much easier than if the blade was straight.

To protect your hands, the peeling knife is typically more dense and ergonomic; this ensures the blade won't slip and puncture your hand, says Knives Academy. If you're looking for a comfy handle, you should consider purchasing a DALSTRONG 2.75" Peeling Knife made of high-quality German Steel. At only $35, at time of publication, you can expect to have this knife for a very long time.

Fillet knife

A fillet knife is a more flexible type of boning knife  able to slice along the spine of the fish and move toward its skin with ease. These knives are also relatively small for easy maneuvering in the body cavity of a halibut or a snapper, and according to Dalstrong , when shopping for a the perfect filleting knife, you'll want to look for a knife with a corrosion-resistant material, since most fish come from saltwater environments. The fillet knife should have an angled blade between 12 and 17 degrees for the perfect sharpness and cutting through flesh, says Dalstrong. 

The exact length of blade you plan to purchase will depend on what types of fish you plan on working with the most. Perch, trout, and walleye require a small blade at around 6 inches, finds Dalstrong. In comparison, tuna and halibut need a blade at least 8 inches in length to cut through the flesh without going missing. Moreover, you can choose to purchase a wood, plastic, or rubber handle based on ergonomics and your desired texture. 

Oyster knife

As the name implies, an oyster knife is used for shucking oysters . Per the Shellfish Broker , oysters have significantly shorter blades than other sharp kitchen knives, along with a more comfortable handle that takes the pressure off your hands when shucking. Most oyster knives are made from stainless steel or carbon steel, all materials resistant to corrosion.

The exact oyster knife shape is dependent on how experienced the handler is. New Haven oyster knives, for example, have a short, wide blade with a pointed tip. Shellfish Broker explains the New Haven is best for folks just learning to shuck oysters because the knife is less pointy, while the Providence blade has a pointier tip and is commonly used for shellfish pros. The Kaki Muki is a Japanese oyster knife used for Pacific and Kumamoto oysters, and it has a longer wooden handle and blade to crack these oysters from the side. If you want a dual purpose knife that you can use to open clams, consider a Seki knife.

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Ka-Bar EK13 Presentation Knife, Brown

Purchase options and add-ons, about this item.

• Blade length: 6.625 inch
• Overall length: 12.625 inch
• Steel: 440C SS
• Country of Origin:United States

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Americans have carried ek Commando knives in world War II, korea, Vietnam, Afghanistan, Iraq, and countless other locations in between. John ek's knives live on today through ek Commando knife Co. As a testament to his ideas, skills, and unflinching patriotism. Ka-Bar is proud to be the living link between the TRADITION of John ek and the ek Commando knife company. Specifications: - overall length: 12.625" - blade length: 6.625" - blade width: 0.9375" - bulk weight: 0.55 lb - handle: Walnut - blade stamp: Ka-Bar ek Commando knife Co - steel: 440c SS - thickness: 0.154" - grind: flat - HRc: 55-58 - angle: 20 degree - sheath: leather

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Customers are satisfied with the quality of the knife. They mention that it is a superb EK style knife, well balanced, and crafted with precision and care. They also appreciate the full tang construction and find it to be a serious piece of equipment.

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Garnishing Knife Set vs Regular Knives: Presentation Showdown

August 18, 2023 Posted by SAIMA NAGORI

In the world of culinary artistry, the presentation is as crucial as the taste itself. When it comes to transforming ordinary ingredients into edible masterpieces, the choice between a garnishing knife set and regular knives can significantly impact the visual appeal of your dishes. Today, we embark on a journey to unravel the secrets held by the garnishing knife set, dissecting how it stands against the familiar regular knives in the quest for gastronomic perfection. Join us as we navigate through the nuances, providing you with insights that not only elevate your kitchen expertise but also redefine the very essence of presentation in every dish you create.

Understanding Garnishing Knife Set and Regular Kitchen Knives

What is a garnishing knife set.

A garnishing knife set is a collection of specialized knives designed specifically for intricate and delicate food preparation and presentation tasks. These knife set with stand typically include a variety of small, nimble knives with different blade shapes and sizes. Garnishing knives are specifically crafted to create intricate patterns , decorative cuts, and precise slices, allowing chefs to elevate the visual appeal of their dishes. With their razor-sharp edges and finely honed tips, garnishing knives create beautiful garnishes, such as fruit and vegetable carvings, intricate designs, and precise ingredient shaping. These knives are a must-have for chefs and culinary enthusiasts who value aesthetics and artistic presentation in their culinary creations.

What Are Regular Kitchen Knives?

On the other hand, regular knives are essential tools in every kitchen. They come in various shapes and sizes and are designed for general-purpose tasks such as chopping, slicing, dicing, and mincing. Regular knives typically have sturdy blades with versatile edges, making them suitable for various cutting tasks. They are the workhorses of the kitchen, capable of handling everyday cooking needs, from preparing ingredients to cutting through tough meats and vegetables. Regular knives may include chef's, utility, bread, and paring knives, among others. These knives offer versatility and functionality, catering to the everyday needs of both professional chefs and home cooks .

Types of Knives in A Garnishing Knife Set

Paring knife:.

Purpose: Ideal for intricate tasks like peeling, trimming, and detailed carving.

Key Features: Short blade for precise control, often with a pointed tip for delicate cuts.

Tourne Knife:

Purpose: Specialized for creating tourne shapes or "turned" vegetables.

Key Features: Curved blade for controlled rotation, facilitating uniform and visually appealing cuts.

Bird's Beak Knife:

Purpose: Designed for precise shaping and carving of fruits and vegetables.

Key Features: Short, curved blade resembling a bird's beak, offering unparalleled precision.

Zester Knife:

Purpose: Extracts zest from citrus fruits, adding flavour and visual appeal.

Key Features: Small, razor-sharp blade with tiny serrations for efficient zesting.

Decorating Knife:

Purpose: Crafting intricate patterns and designs on fruits and vegetables.

Key Features: Narrow blade with a sharp point, allowing for detailed and artistic decorations.

Chef's Knife :

Purpose: Versatile for slicing, dicing, and chopping a variety of ingredients.

Key Features: Longer, broader blade for efficient cutting and chopping tasks.

Utility Knife:

Purpose: An all-purpose knife for various kitchen tasks.

Key Features: Mid-sized blade, striking a balance between the precision of a paring knife and the versatility of a chef's knife.

Difference Between Garnishing Knife Set And Regular Kitchen Knives

Here are the key differences between garnishing knife set and regular kitchen knives

Which Delivers Culinary Excellence - Garnishing Knife Set Or Regular Knives?

The answer to this question depends on the specific needs and preferences of the chef or cook. If you prioritize the artistic presentation and intricate garnishes, a garnishing knife set with stand would be an excellent choice to deliver culinary excellence. These specialized knives allow you to create visually stunning dishes that captivate and impress. 

However, regular knives would be more suitable if you value versatility and require a knife set that can handle a broad range of cutting tasks. Regular knives offer the functionality and durability needed for everyday cooking, enabling you to prepare ingredients efficiently and precisely. In addition, most of the knives of garnishing knife sets are available in regular kitchen knife sets so that you can easily garnish your dishes using them.

Our Recommendations: 3 Best Kitchen Knife Sets

Investing in these high-quality knife sets will enhance your culinary experience and enable you to deliver excellence in the kitchen. Here are our top recommendations:

These recommended knife sets from AGARO offer a range of options to suit different culinary needs. The AGARO Knife Set provides a comprehensive collection of knives, perfect for tackling various cutting tasks in the kitchen. Visit its official website to buy its knife sets now.

In the culinary world, both garnishing knife sets and regular knives have their place, depending on the desired outcome and cooking requirements. Agaro’s kitchen knife set adds an artistic touch to dishes, creating visually stunning presentations, while regular knives offer versatility and functionality for everyday cooking needs. Ultimately, the choice between these two types of knives depends on the preferences and priorities of the chef or cook. By selecting the right knife set for your specific needs, you can enhance your culinary skills and deliver excellence in your creations.

Frequently Asked Questions:

What is the main difference between a garnishing knife set and regular knives?

Garnishing knife sets are specialized for intricate and decorative cuts, enhancing the visual appeal of dishes, while regular knives are versatile tools designed for general cutting tasks in the kitchen.

Which knife set should I choose for everyday cooking needs?

For everyday cooking, it is recommended to go for regular knives like the AGARO Galaxy Stainless Steel Set of 3 Kitchen Knives, which offers essential knives with sharp blades, comfortable handles, and precise cutting performance.

Are garnishing knife sets suitable for professional chefs and home cooks?

Yes, garnishing knife sets are valuable for professional chefs and home cooks who prioritize the artistic presentation and intricate garnishes in their culinary creations. They allow for precise and detailed cuts, elevating the visual appeal of dishes.

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Ek EK13 Commando Presentation Knife Stainless Steel Double Edge Fixed Blade Walnut Handle USA Made

Ek Knives: Ek Commando Presentation Knife, EK-13

The "Ek Commando Knives", as he referred to them, were designed for close quarters and were quickly adopted by the US Marine Raiders, US Army Rangers, First Special Service Force and Office of Strategic Services Operational Groups.

Americans have sinced carried Ek Commando Knives in World War II, Korea, Vietnam, Afghanistan, Iraq and countless other locations in between.

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MIKE MALOSH FORGED ELK CAMP KNIFE

As the name presentation fixed blade implies, these knives are more for show than go.  often these knives feature upgrades in finishes and materials. whereas tactical fixed blades feature non-reflective finishes and synthetic handle materials, presentation knives will usually incorporate hand rubbed satin finishes or mirror finishes on the blade and all other metal parts of the knife.  the natural handle materials generally range from wood to  stag to ivory.  depending on the size of the knife and subsequently the handle you can see presentation fixed blades with shell such as mother of pearl, gold and black lip pearl.  … more.

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What Is a Carving Knife and Why Do You Need One?

Learn more about why a carving knife is an essential tool to have in your knife collection.

When it’s time to carve up a Sunday roast or Thanksgiving turkey , there’s no tool more up to the job than a carving knife. Characterized by its long, thin blade that ensures even and easy slices, this knife is the best (and most traditional) tool for serving large cuts of meat.

Here’s more information about this surprisingly versatile knife, and why it’s an essential in any knife block.

What Is a Carving Knife?

Why do you need a carving knife, how to choose a carving knife, ready to shop.

A carving knife is used almost exclusively for carving all types of both raw and cooked meat, from brisket to a holiday ham. Typically, they have a long, thin blade with a pronounced tip that improves precision and maneuverability, even around bone, fat, and cartilage.

A variety of knives can be used for cutting raw proteins, from fillet knives, often used for fish, to cleavers, common amongst butchers. Unlike these, a carving knife is used on cooked meat.

Carving Knife vs. Chef Knife

If you already have a multi-use chef knife, you may wonder if it’s necessary to add a carving knife to your roster. A chef knife possesses a wider blade than a carving knife and will require more effort, which can result in jagged, uneven slices. A carving knife has a thinner, longer blade (ours is 9” long), specifically designed for slices of any width, from paper-thin deli-style slices to thick rounds.

Another key difference between these two blades is the tip of the blade. While both chef and carving knives possess sharp tips, the point at the end of a carving knife is much more narrow and pronounced. This allows for easy maneuvering around the contours of a roast to get every piece of meat off the bone.

While a chef knife can make do with cutting the odd steak, a carving knife is worth investing in if you regularly cook and serve large amounts of meat.

A carving knife may not be your most used knife, but is a tool that you’ll be endlessly grateful for when you do need it.

Benefits of Using a Carving Knife

There are many reasons we think this is an essential blade in any knife block, but first let’s dive into the unique benefits of using a carving knife.

Cleaner Cuts

The most important benefit of using a carving knife is the easy, clean slices you can achieve. Hacked-up holiday turkeys or uneven steak slices will be a thing of the past, thanks to the long, pointed blade that deftly works through even the toughest cuts.

Improved Presentation

While a meal is a meal no matter what it looks like, the clean, even slices that a carving knife helps to achieve makes for a much more aesthetically pleasing presentation than jagged, uneven, hacked off slices. This is especially important on special occasions and holidays.

Increased Efficiency

No one wants to delay dinner because the star was too tough to carve in a timely manner. Luckily, a dedicated carving knife helps to speed up the carving process (even for full birds or large roasts) so you can spend less time cutting, and more time enjoying, your meal.

When to Use a Carving Knife

As its name suggests, a carving knife is the ideal tool for carving large, even slices of any type of meat, from poultry to pork. The shape of this knife also makes it useful for carving other large or unwieldy fruits or vegetables, like pumpkins and watermelon.

When picking out your carving knife, there are a few factors to keep in mind when shopping to ensure you’re picking out the best one for you.

Blade Length

A carving knife’s greatest asset is the length of its blade—this is what allows it to carve neatly and evenly through meat, resulting in a picture-perfect slice. The length of our blade is 9” (longer than our Chef Knife), which ensures clean cuts and easy maneuvering.

Blade Material

A knife is only as good as its blade, especially when considering the material the blade is constructed out of. Ours is full tang , fully forged , and constructed from X50CrMoV15 NITRO+ metal with a Rockwell hardness scale of 58+, which results in a blade with an unparalleled cutting experience that maintains its edge, meaning less care and maintenance and more carving.

Handle Material

Less important than blade construction but an important factor of overall knife design, the knife handle material dictates care and maintenance. Our unique handle is made from Yew Wood, ensuring no two knives have the same grain in their handle, and promising a showstopping knife that looks just as good as dinner.

Though it may see the most action during the holidays, a carving knife is a year round essential that fills a necessary role in any knife block. If you’re looking to invest in one, our French-made 9” Carving Knife comes equipped with a full-tang, fully-forged blade and Yew Wood handle. This ensures that your cuts are clean, even, and make a beautifully presented dish for a casual dinner or holiday meal. Don’t miss this limited-edition blade—once it’s gone, it’s gone.

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Giving Informative Knife Presentations

There are a lot of community activities that offer an opportunity to educate others about the importance of knives in our every day lives. These include kid safety days, respect your law enforcement days, heritage days, civic programs, men’s and women’s groups and youth clubs.

General Guidelines:

• Be well prepared
• Have handouts
• Dress appropriately
• Demonstrations are very effective
• If possible, have a display where people arrive or leave
• Discuss the importance of use of knives in our every day lives
• Always stress safety, safety, safety
• Be sure to thank the group for their time and the opportunity to share

Demonstration Topics:

• Safe handling
• Safety in certain activities
• Different types of knives
• Grinding/Shaping
• or you can use a video or PowerPoint presentation on safety or knife-making

Hand-Out Possibilities:

• AKTI’s Safety Pamphlet – My First Knife – available only as PDF  – can print two-sided
• Packets requested from various manufacturers
• Information from area knife collectors organizations
• AKTI membership information, decals and brochures – request from the Executive Director
• Community education materials

Ideas for Specific Talks:

Youth and scout groups.

• Definitely give a hand-out on safety
• Hands on projects – carving soap, putting together a knife kit
• Questions they typically have: how are knives made? what are they made from? how much do knives cost?
• Stress the importance of them knowing school rules about carrying knives

Cooking knives

• Include information on the proper care of kitchen cutlery
• Present the basic techniques of proper sharpening
• Have information on where to purchase good cutlery
• Have information on where sharpening services are available

Adult groups

• A good opener is to ask what kind of knife they carry or carried as a kid
• Discuss the importance of the knife industry or economic impact of the cutlery industry in the area
• If possible, show an example of a fancy or custom knife with engraving or mother of pearl.
• Encourage them to visit AKTI’s website for more information.

Materials for Presentations

If you have developed any outlines, materials (hand-outs, PowerPoint Presentations, etc), or list of sources for information that would be helpful to others sharing knife education, we would appreciate hearing from you and having the opportunity to include your information on our website for others. Please contact us .

As a nonprofit association, AKTI’s role is to be the reasonable and responsible advocate for the knife-making and knife-using community; educating, promoting and informing that knives are important tools.

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Steak Knives & Presentation Box

Showcase special woods with this impressive matched set.

Designer/Builder/Writer: Andy Rae

Here’s a two-part project that’s fun to make, and looks great below the yuletide tree. Both the steak knife handles and presentation box are made from a gorgeous Peruvian hardwood called orange agate (platymiscium sp.), which is a dense, tropical species from Peru (see page 70). It cuts well with sharp tools, takes a beautiful polish, and holds up to moisture—a good choice for kitchenware. The box holds six knives, but can readily be scaled up or down to hold more or fewer knives. A clever sliding lid snaps shut as if by magic thanks to two rare-earth magnets. The veneered lid, made from a figured piece of anigre, adds a nice contrast to the orange agate while letting you try your hand at simple veneering. Make the six knife handles first, so you can fit the box to the dimensions of the completed knives.

Start with the knife handles 

1 MILL A BLANK FOR THE SIX HANDLES, keeping it oversized in thickness and length, or about 5/8×1×32". To match the grain pattern for each handle, mark the edge of the stock for matching assemblies later, and then resaw the blank in half on a bandsaw or a table saw. The two resulting strips should be enough to make 12 handle halves (A) (Figure 1). Thickness-plane the halves to 3/16" thick, making sure the inside faces are smooth and flat. 

2 MARK THE KNIFE OUTLINES ON THE OUTSIDE FACE OF ONE HANDLE HALF, using a knife blank as a tracing template. Be sure to mark the hole locations on the stock, and label the individual blanks on this strip as well as its mate as shown in Photo A.

3 DRILL THE PIN HOLES IN THE HANDLE HALVES (A) on the drill press, using a 1/8" brad-point bit. Use a scrap backer board underneath the stock to prevent blowing out the underside.

4 BANDSAW THE HANDLE HALVES (A) TO ROUGH SIZE, being careful to stay outside your marked lines. (You can substitute a scrollsaw if you like.) To prevent splitting when you drive the pins, chamfer around each hole on the inside face of each blank using a handheld countersink or a countersink bit chucked into the drill press.

5 FINISH-SAND THE FORWARD (BLADE) ENDS OF THE HANDLE BLANKS, sanding a gentle curve and rounding the end by hand with some 120-grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood. Sand through the grits up to 220, paying attention to any scratches or irregularities, as it will be hard to touch up this area after assembly.

Glue the blanks to the blades

1 CUT 18 PINS INTO 1" LENGTHS from a 1/8"-diameter brass rod. To further prevent splitting the handle stock and to make installing the pins easier, bevel one end of each pin on a disc sander or with a fine file. Because the six pins for the forward holes in the knife blanks will be too tight to fit, you’ll need to pre-size them. To do this, drive each pin partway through the hole by laying the blank over a makeshift anvil and striking the pin with a hammer as shown in Photo B. Now withdraw it. 

2 GLUE THE HANDLE HALVES TO THE KNIFE BLANKS WITH TWO-PART EPOXY. Tape the cardboard sheath that comes with the knife blank to the blank, to protect your fingers from the blade. Before spreading the adhesive, tap all three pins through one handle half, beveled end down, until the beveled tips register in the holes in the knife blank. Then, spread epoxy on each handle half, position both halves over the knife blank, and tap the pins through all three parts, starting with the forward pin as shown in Photos C and D.

3 CLAMP THE ASSEMBLY as shown in Photo E, WIPING AWAY EXCESS EPOXY on the knife blank with a clean rag dampened with denatured alcohol. Set the assembly aside to let the epoxy cure.

4 FILE OR SAND THE PINS FLUSH WITH THE HANDLE. Brass is relatively soft; a few swipes with a mill file, or a light touch on a stationary belt sander, should level the pins flush with the wood surface.

5 SAND THE HANDLE FLUSH WITH THE KNIFE BLANK, stopping when the edge of the knife blank is exposed. I used a stationary belt sander, but a mill file, followed up with some hand-sanding with 120-grit paper wrapped around a block of wood works just as well.

6 ROUND OVER THE EDGES OF THE HANDLE on the router table using a 1/8" round-over bit. To keep fingers safe, use a pushblock to move the workpiece, as shown in Photo F. (See also “Routing Small Parts” on page 48.)

Tap the pins partway through one handle half, spread epoxy on both halves, position the parts together, and then drive the three pins through all three parts, beginning with the forward pin.

Clamp the handle halves to the knife blank using moderate clamping pressure. Wipe away excess epoxy from the knife blank by dampening a rag with denatured alcohol.

Finish the handles

1 FINISH-SAND THE  HANDLES UP TO 220 GRIT, then use some 320-grit wet-or-dry paper to smooth the face of the pins and the edges of the steel knife.

2 APPLY A HEAVY-DUTY FINISH so the handles will wear well in the kitchen. First, I applied a coat of dewaxed shellac to seal out any contaminates, smoothing the surface with a fine nylon abrasive pad once the finish had dried. Then I applied a few coats of a wipe-on polyurethane for maximum protection, using a small artist’s brush to coat the forward ends to avoid getting any on the blade, and a rag for the rest. I let the handles dry as shown in Photo G.

Keep fingers out of harm’s way when rounding the edges. Cover the blade with a cardboard sheath and use a grippy pushblock to move the work. 

For a smooth finish, clamp a scrap piece of corrugated cardboard in a bench vise, then stick the knives into the cardboard while the finish dries.

Now for the presentation box

1 MILL THE SIDES (B), ENDS (C and D) AND THE PULL (E), referring to the Cut List. To keep the grain matched, mill the narrow end and the pull as one block of 

oversized wood, approximately 7/8 ×25/8×7¼" then rip the block into separate parts and to final size on the table saw. Make sure to mark their orientation so you can put them back together in the correct order later.

2 CUT BOX JOINTS IN THE SIDES (B) AND ENDS (C and D), making ¼" fingers and ¼" slots. (See “Box-Joint Basics” on page 10.) Because orange agate is a brittle wood that is prone to chipping, I used a marking gauge to score lines around the stock before cutting the joints, which greatly reduces tear-out. To account for the difference in thickness between the sides and the ends, cut 3/8"-long fingers and slots in the end pieces, and 7/8"-long joints in the sides as shown in Photos H and I.

3 CUT THE LID (F) AND BOTTOM (G) TO SIZE, referring to the Cut List. You can use regular hardwood plywood in a species of your choice, but to make the box really stand out, opt for a select veneer with 3/16" thick solid stock (see “Veneering the Lid” on page 56).

4 ROUT THE GROOVES IN THE SIDES (B) AND ENDS (C and D) for the lid (F) and the bottom (G), using a ¼" straight bit chucked in the table-mounted router. Align the grooves with the fingers and slots as shown in Figure 2. The grooves are only 1/8" deep, which keeps the thin box sides strong. Cut through-grooves in the sides; then cut stopped grooves in the wider end (C) for both lid and bottom, and only one stopped groove in the narrow end (D) for the bottom only. Clamp stopblocks fore and aft of the bit on the table, and carefully lower the work onto the spinning bit as in Photo J. When the stock reaches the aft stopblock, carefully pivot the work up and away from the bit.

Note: You can cut the stopped groove for the bottom a tad longer than necessary, and then leave it as is since you won’t see it after glue-up. The stopped groove for the lid, however, should stop precisely 1/8" past the joint’s shoulder line. Once you’ve routed the grooves, square up the rounded ends on the lid groove with a small chisel. Check that the bottom sits securely in its grooves, and that the lid slides easily. Judicious sanding on the lid’s underside will free it up for ideal sliding action.

5 CUT THE SHOULDERS ON THE SIDES (B) FOR THE LID PULL (E), removing one finger at one end of each side where shown in Figure 2. I used a handsaw to make this cut and cleaned it up with a chisel, but you could make the same cut using the miter gauge on the table saw.

6 ROUND OVER THE SIDES (B) AND THE WIDER END (C), using a 1/8" round-over bit in the router table. For now, round over just the top inside and outside edges of the sides, stopping where they meet the wider end, and round over the top inside edge of the wider end (C). After assembly, round over the remaining edges, and finish up the stopped round-overs with chisels and careful sanding.

7 GLUE UP THE SIDES (B), ENDS (C and D) AND BOTTOM (G), gluing the box joints as well as the plywood bottom. Clamp the ends first, then the sides, and check for square. When you’re satisfied, place clamps directly over the box joints, using medium pressure to ensure the joints make good contact as shown in Photo K. Set the box aside on a flat surface to dry. 

8 LAY OUT AND CUT THE CURVES ON THE ENDS (C and D) AND PULL (E), using two copies of the pattern shown in Figure 4. First, adhere the pull (E) on top of the narrow end (D) with double-faced tape, and spray-adhere a copy of the pattern on the stack. Glue the second pattern to the top edge of the wide end (C). Now bandsaw the curves to shape. Clean up the saw marks on a stationary belt or disc sander, being careful not to over-cut or over-sand. You’ll want to leave 3/8"-long fingers on the sides for a consistent, symmetrical look. Now rout 1/8" round-overs on the top edges and ends of parts (C) and (E) as well as the outside bottom edges of the box.

9 INSTALL THE DECORATIVE PINS. Cut six 1/8" brass pins about ½" long. Use the pattern in Figure 4 to lay out and mark exact pinhole locations in the box end and the pull. Drill the holes as before using a 1/8" brad-point bit on the drill press, making them about 3/8" deep. Apply epoxy to the pins then tap them into the holes. When the epoxy has cured, level the pins to the wood with a mill file or sanding block.

Use a 1/4" dado blade to cut 7/8" fingers in the sides and 3/8" fingers in the ends.

Pivot the workpiece down and onto the bit and move it forward until it contacts the opposite stopblock.

Clamp the ends and the sides with bar clamps, checking that the assembly is square. Finish by clamping over the joints.

Veneering the Lid

To make the presentation box really pop, veneer the lid from a wood of your choice. I chose highly figured anigre, an African wood that often displays tightly-packed curls across the grain, but practically any species will look great. Cut all your materials oversize, or about 7×11", as shown in Figure 3.

You’ll need four pieces of ¾"-thick MDF (medium-density fiberboard) to act as cauls, two pieces of ¼"-thick vinyl-coated hardboard to resist glue squeeze-out (you can substitute regular plywood instead if you give it a good coat of wax), plus a core of  5/32"-thick hardwood plywood with its face grain running opposite to the veneer.

Be sure to veneer both sides of the lid with the same or similar wood to stabilize the panel. Use a foam roller to place an even coat of regular white or yellow glue onto both faces of the core (never on the veneers), and then quickly position the veneers, core, hardboard, and cauls, and tape the package on each edge to avoid slippage.

Place the assembly over tall blocks. Then clamp from the center out. Once the glue has dried, level and smooth the surface by sanding with 120 grit up through 220, and then cut the lid to the finished dimensions in the Cut List.

Assemble the lid and pull

1 CUT A STOPPED RABBET IN THE PULL (E) on the router table, again using a straight bit to make the cut. Raise the bit height ¼" and set the fence for a 1/8" cut. As before, set up stopblocks on both sides of the fence to limit the cut, stopping the cut ¼" from each end. Square up the rounded ends with a chisel.

2 GLUE THE PULL (E) TO THE LID (F), using a single bar clamp to draw the pull into the edge of the lid, and a couple of clamps to bring pressure down on top of the pull and onto the lid’s face. Once the glue dries, check the fit of the lid in the box, and make any necessary adjustments. The lid should slide easily and close with the curved pull flush with the curved end of the box.

3 TO CREATE THE CLOSING SYSTEM FOR THE LID, lay out and mark the centered hole in the edge of the narrow box end (D) for the rare-earth magnet. Then lay out and mark the underside of the lid’s pull, this time centering the hole along its length, but offsetting it 1/16" towards the outside of the pull. This offset creates a pulling action when the lid is closed. Next, chuck a 3/8" Forstner bit in the drill press, and drill holes about 1/8" deep so the magnets sit slightly below the surface of the lid and box. Orient the magnets so they attract each other and epoxy them into their respective holes and let cure.

Divide the box interior

1 CUT THE SLOTTED BOTTOM (H) TO SIZE AND MILL THE END BLOCKS AND DIVIDERS (I, J, K, L) to the dimensions in the Cut List. Check the fit of the slotted bottom in the box, perhaps starting out oversized and then shaving its edges with a small plane for a precise fit.

2 NOW CUT THE SLOTS IN THE SLOTTED BOTTOM (H) ON THE TABLE SAW, raising the blade to full height and adjusting the fence for each cut. Refer to Figure 5 for the slot layout, and use a standard plywood-cutting blade to make the 1/8"-wide slots. Clamp a stopblock to the far end of the saw fence as shown in Photo L on page 58 to stop the cut. Make sure to stop the saw each time to safely remove the panel for the next cut. 

3 ROUND THE LEADING EDGES OF THE DIVIDERS (J, K, L), laying out the ¾"-radii on one block and sawing it to shape on the bandsaw (see Figure 4). Clean up the saw marks and fair the curve on a stationary belt sander or by hand, and then use that divider to lay out and shape the remaining blocks.

4 ROUND OVER THE END BLOCKS (I) AND THE DIVIDERS (J, K, L), again using a 1/8" round-over bit in the router table. As before, use a pushblock to guide the small pieces past the spinning bit. Finish-sand all the blocks and dividers, as well as the slotted bottom, up to 220-grit.

5 INSTALL THE SLOTTED BOTTOM (H), placing a few beads of glue underneath and weighting the plywood down for a flat, solid bond.

6 GLUE AND CLAMP THE END BLOCKS (I) ON TOP OF THE SLOTTED PLYWOOD.  Use only a moderate amount of glue to avoid squeeze-out.

7 ATTACH THE DIVIDERS (J, K, L) TO THE BOTTOM WITH GLUE, using spacers to position them. I made spacers from scrapwood, using 1/2" -wide spacers for the handle dividers and 1/8"-wide spacers for the blade dividers. Arrange the blocks with the spacers to make sure they fit before spreading any glue, then apply glue to the end dividers first, and press them into position against the sides and down onto the plywood. Finish up by installing the remaining dividers, again coating them with glue and pressing them into place as shown in Photo M.

Layout marks on the plywood help set the fence for each cut. Raise the blade and push the part into the saw, stopping when the panel contacts the stopblock. Turn off the saw before removing the panel.

Arrange the dividers using scrap spacers, and then install them by pressing them in place with glue.

Finish the box

1 SAND THE BOX UP TO 220 GRIT and apply the finish of your choice.  To keep the look in tune with the knives, I chose the same finish regimen that I used on the handles, although I didn’t apply as many coats: one coat of shellac to seal the wood, followed by two coats of wipe-on poly. 

2 RUB IT OUT FOR A BEAUTIFUL SHINE. When the finish has cured thoroughly (it takes about a week), rub out the entire box and the knife handles with paste wax to smooth the finish and protect the surface. Now, sign the box, fill it with the knives, and present it to someone special. 

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Is a Knife Gift a Sign of Bad Luck?

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Sometimes it's difficult to find the perfect gift for a friend. You wrack your brain, trying to come up with a thoughtful gift that will be appreciated. Like all the best gifts, you're looking for something that will defy the cookie-cutter mold. Better yet? The gift will be affordable, too.

Enter the knife gift . Whether you're looking at folding knives, pocket knives, or survival knives, a blade can be a timeless and useful gift — especially if that special someone enjoys cooking food, hunting, or going camping. Beyond being a handy gift, knives can also be symbolic. A kitchen knife can help celebrate a new home, while a survival knife shows that you care about a person's safety. So what's wrong with this gift?

The Problem with Knives as Gifts

Knife superstitions from around the world, does the style of knife matter, a perfect knife can still make the perfect gift.

Before you box one up, however, there's something you need to know: giving a blade as a gift is considered bad luck in many cultures. According to one superstition, offering a knife as a present will sever the friendship between the gift giver and recipient.

The only way around this unfortunate matter is for the gift giver to tape a coin to the knife. The coin must then be promptly removed and returned to the giver as a form of symbolic payment. This transaction prevents the relationship from being cut and, because the knife was "purchased," releases the giver from any injuries that might result from its use.

Knife-giving superstitions are prevalent the world over. For example, it's bad luck to give a knife as a wedding gift because, according to folklore , it could cut the marriage ties. For similar reasons, a pocket knife should be handed to someone only if it's closed; otherwise, it'll cause an argument.

If there's been a death in the family, superstition insists that knives should be carefully handled. This way, family members can avoid stabbing the soul of the dead. Speaking of handling knives carefully, take note of this superstition: it's bad luck to close a pocket knife when another person has left it open.

In some cases, yes. Pay attention to the specific features of your knife gift, as they can reveal paranormal self-defense qualities. Carrying a steel blade can allegedly protect you from evil spirits and curses, although the blade length won't give you more or less protection.

Meanwhile, in Greece , it's believed that putting a knife with a black grip under the pillow will prevent nightmares. You won't get any rest with a wood handle, apparently! These are things to consider before surprising a family member, friend, or special someone with their first knife this holiday season.

At this point, you're probably tempted to ditch the knife-giving idea and purchase a set of multi tools instead. But it's important to keep in mind that many of these superstitions come from murky tradition. From a modern perspective, knives are great gifts that offer beauty, utility, and stand to function as cool conversation pieces.

The key is to know your gift receiver. If you have family members who are first responders, a seat belt cutter or survival knife can be a thoughtful gift. Any person who cooks food should enjoy a set of kitchen knives. Plus, a pocket knife gift can be sentimental in the right context.

Even a superstitious person can appreciate a well-thought-out knife gift. If the blade's style helps them ward off evil spirits or protect their home, it will still be cherished. So maybe the gift of a knife isn't so bad after all.

Is it bad luck to give knives as a wedding gift?

Is it bad luck to close a knife you didn't open, what is the meaning of dropping a knife, what does it mean when someone gives you a knife, what does seeing a knife in a dream mean, lots more information, related articles.

• 10 Famous Curses
• 10 Stars Who Died During the Filming of a Movie
• How Urban Legends Work
• Why are fishermen superstitious of bananas?
• 9 Legends of American Folklore

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Vietnam SOG Knives

By Spy vs Spy, March 9, 2008 in EDGED WEAPONS

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Hey gentlemen.

Im as you know new to this great forum. I have seen that there are many different collecting areas here and that is wery interesting. So I wonder if there is any one that collect or has any original SOG knives from the Vietnam war era that you can show?

Sterile or presentation knives.

This Fatguard is from my collection.

Thanks and best regards,

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pwmiraldi67

heres a few.....

I have seen these before. The top one was sold at Ebay a while ago.

Im not that keen to the sheath, havn´t seen that one before (and its not in Tom Clinton´s book).

The left SOG (7" Recon) is from John Gibson´s collection? Can be seen on page http://www.militaryfightingknives.com/collection.html#SOG

Is any of these yours Paul.

Regards, Martin

Yea I bought that one from Hardy, Ive got another that came from a grouping I'll see if I can find some pix

This is not an original SOG just one I made for a customer.

Lets get some feedback

Did I read right, you made it?

Thanks guys...

Yes, I made it. I have an order for a set 1 Bowie and a 7"recon will post pics when finished.

Glad you liked my work.

Guest Allen_Hutton

Beleive it or not your only 9 from the top of the list. Allen That M3 was a killer gift thanks again

9th from the top???? Dangitman .... your buddy AG put me on top of his list the other day just cause I was a friend of yours LOL.

Your welcome for the M-3 ..... Momma always told me to share my toys.

What features make a knife a SOG knife?

They were issued to the MACV/ SOG,LRRP teams,and Spike Teams, during the Viet-Nam war. The First were the recon version then came the bowie style.There are several variations of both.They were also made by several different suppliers. Originaly $9.95, now $1000.00 and up.

But what makes it a SOG knife, blade style, grip, or just that it was issued to those units...?

SOG is the term given to them by collectors as this is who used them the most.Men attached to Special Operations Group or as it was also known as Special Observation Group earlier in the War.A friend of mine who carried one of these called it a "throw away"knife.This being if you lost it or threw it away it wasnt like loosing your Randall.Most of the issue ones were sterile for the purpose of not being traceable back to the US Forces on missions across the fence.If memory serves me correctly Ben Baker is the one credited for development and early procurement of these knives through the CISO program.There is various models and styles but they all have similiar style hand guards,leather grips,black or white spacers in the grip,and similiar blade grinds. The two main model differances are shown above.The first type having a longer,narrower blade which I think is an earlier model( or have been told)then the second style with the shorter wider blade.With in this series you will encounter variations in blade finninsh(blue or plum),variations in cross guard thickness(narrow and fat..fat guard)also the material varied in guard and pommel construction materials.These being brass,alumium,or steel.These second types are often the ones seen and used for presentation pieces.The knifes as far as I know were produced by a firm in Japan.There also exsists another style that is referred to as a Marine Recon.Same basic handle configuration but with a broader more bellied blade and it has a blood groove on each side of the blade of the ones I have seen.

There has been several articles done on these knives and books too.Frank Trzaska has done arcticles on them as well as Mike Siveys book and Tom Clinton put out a book on the Special Forces knives.

Im sure there are other forum members who can give you a better run down on the SOG knives.I hope this helps.Take care,

The SOG knives were made and issued to SOGs (Studies and Observation Group) clandestine and cross-border

recon teams (RT) and Spike teams (ST) for their across the fence missions.

The knives were made by CISO (counterinsurgency support office) stationed at Okinawa.

Founder of the knife was Conrad Ben Baker.

The longer model was the SOG 7" Recon and the shorter more common one is 6" SOG Bowie.

The 7" RECON, had made total of 1,308 knives.

The 6" SOG "Bowie" was made by many different makers and that is one of the reasons to why

the guards, spine patterns, ricassos, etc., can be different from knife to knife.

The hilt and pommel can be of aluminum, iron and brass that is the mainly used material.(if I´v been told right)

The 6" SOG comes in 3 type of blades.

The blade was dark blued but some knives can be seen with the unique plum colored oxidation, and came about

because the dark blueing attained by some makers required a longer, hotter dip, which ruines blade temper.

Plum-colored blades were coincidental to manufacturer. Some knives were allso chromed and used for presentation.

There are 4 different type of leather sheaths.

In 1966 SOG ordered 1,200 sterile SOG knives.

In 1967 another 3,700 sterile SOG knives was ordered (numbered 1-3700).

1967 the 5th Special Forces Mess Association ordered 1,700 knives for presentation.

These were dilivered with Dark blued or Plum colored blade and engraves/etched with SF crest and wording,

5th SPECIAL FORCES GROUP (Abn) VIETNAM.

In 1972 50 SOG knives were ordered and sent to Joint Casualty Resolution Center in Thailand.

There allso exist a SCUBA/DEMO model knife, and there were 39 made.

Books and article about the SOG knife and photos an be found in:

-KNIVES OF THE U.S. SPECIAL FORCES, by Tom Clinton.

-KNIVES OF THE UNITED STATES MILITARY IN VIETNAM, by Mike Silvey.

-UNITED STATES MILITARY COLLECTORS GUIDE, by Gary Boyd and Mike Silvey.

-SPECIAL FORCES OF THE U.S. ARMY, by Ian Sutherland.

-MACV STUDIES AND OBSERVATION GROUP, Volume IV, by Harve Saal.

-in FIGHTING KNIVES Fall 1991, article by, Ben Baker.

Best regards,

(Im allways interested in buying SOG knives, mint, used or abused all of interest)

Thanks, very informative.

Hey gentlemen,

I don´t really know if this question is right to post in this thread?

I got an original SOG presentation knife and the sheath is very hard in the leather. The knife was used after the Vietnam war during hunting trips, and was at one time lost in the woods by the hunting cabin and found again the year later. When found again it ended up in the garage and the sheath has become very dry and stiff, and

Im a little worried that it is going to dry up even more and crack.

My question is what can and should I use to save the sheath?

Best regards, M

Sounds like the leather is case hardening.I would start by soaking it in water then letting it dry slowly like in a closet. When it gets mostly dry (still a little damp to the touch) start rubbing it down with leather lotion. The water in the leather will expand the pores and as it dries will draw the lotion into the expanded pores. This may not be technically right but it is how it was explained to me by an old bootmaker. And to his credit I have had good results with this process. Wrapping the sheath in newspaper to slow the drying process doesn't hurt either.

Or " It's junk but as a favor I'll take it off your hands,what ya gotta have for it" LOL

I have had some luck with older leather using liquid glycerin saddle soap.This is a spray on material and will darken light leather.You wont have to worry as the SOG sheath is already dark.the beauty of the liquid gyceri saddle soap is it can be used on wet or dry leather.One thin on the old dry leather is after appling the L-G saddle soap you may want to top coat it with Pecards or some thing similiar to keep the leather from drying out completely.Pecards is good as it is a bees wax base.You can then treat with Black Rock leather conditioner and products.

• 9 months later...

Here is on of mine, bought from G. Ruleford.

Best regards,, Martin

• 3 weeks later...

Here is a SOG knife owed by a friend who is a retired USAF Colonel. He told me he got the knife while he was a USAF pilot attached to MACV/SOG. He flew both fixed wing and rotary wing aircraft.

Here is the sheath:

Here is the end cap:

Hey evstringer.

Type II Blade and Type II Sheath.

Thanks for posting.

Do you have a better photo of the ricasso? (red marked area) I just want too se if there are any markings or my eye is playing me a joke.

Best regards // Martin

( is it okey if I save your photo for my SOG knife "file"? Only for my private watching.)

You are welcome.

I see what you mean about the apparent markings in the picture. I took these pictures back in AUG ’05 but I don’t think that there were any markings anywhere on the knife.

Ken is snow birding it in AridZona so I can’t get a look at it or take more pictures till he gets back. I do have a shot where the flash lit that area. I will post that shot and a closeup of the area.

I also am posting a shot taken on his window sill – somewhat different lighting than the ones I first posted. I wish I had flipped it around and took a shot of the other side in that light.

You are free to use the pictures any way that you want.

Again, thanks for posting and your reply evstringer:thumbsup:

Regards// Martin

You are very welcome.

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Types of Knives & their Parts

Jan 06, 2020

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Types of Knives & their Parts. Bellwork. Looking at the scale provided, evaluate yourself on your knowledge about knives. Think of three things you already know about knives and list them in the space provided: Names, types, a knife you have used before. I WILL BE ABLE TO: Define terminology

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Types of Knives & their Parts

Bellwork • Looking at the scale provided, evaluate yourself on your knowledge about knives. • Think of three things you already know about knives and list them in the space provided: Names, types, a knife you have used before

I WILL BE ABLE TO: Define terminology Identify the different parts of a knife Explain the purpose and function of different knife types Demonstrate the proper way to sharpen a knife

Learning Goals: • Define terminology • Identify the different parts of a knife • Explain the purpose and function of different knife types • Demonstrate the proper way to sharpen a knife

Parts of a Knife http://snagwiremedia.com/delusciouslife/2007/12/06/knife_parts-thumb-300x732.jpg

Parts Of A Knife SPINE RIVETS BUTT TANG BUTT FLAT SIDE POINT BOLSTER HANDLE TIP CUTTING EDGE HEEL http://snagwiremedia.com/delusciouslife/2007/12/06/knife_parts-thumb-300x732.jpg

Terms Cutting edge: the sharp part of a knife used for cuttingtang: the unsharpened tail of the blade that extends into the handle of a knifebolster: the thicker band of metal located where the blade joins the handlerivets: metal fasteners used to attach the tang of a knife to the handle.handle:the part you grasp to control the knife; composed of wood, plastic, steel, titanium, or a number of synthetic materials 7 PROPERTY OF PIMA COUNTY JTED, 2010

butt: the end of the knifetip: can be used for fine work, trimming, and peelingpoint: where the spine and the edge meet. heel: used for cutting tasks that require some force. spine: the non-cutting edge of the blade. flat side: Used to crush garlic and crack the shells on peanuts.

Knife Types French Knife or Chef’s Knife http://cdn2.overstock.com/images/products/P12280350.jpg Slicer http://images2.lkimg.com/product-images--meridian-elite-hollow-edge.jpg Cleaver https://bluecashewkitchen.com/shop/images/T/36516.jpg Filleting Knife tps://bluecashewkitchen.com/shop/images/T/36107.jpg

Knife Types Paring Knife https://bluecashewkitchen.com/shop/images/T/36886.jpg Boning Knife https://bluecashewkitchen.com/shop/images/T/3692_6.jpg Utility Knife https://bluecashewkitchen.com/shop/images/T/3691_45.jpg Tournée Knife http://www.messermeister.com/site_img/3680-2.5.jpg

Terms chef’s Knife (French Knife): large, multipurpose knife used for slicing, chopping, mincing, and dicing; blade is usually 8 to 12 inches long slicer: a narrow, flexible blade used to carve meat and slice breads, cakes, and pastry items. (may be serrated) fillet knife: A specially designed knife for filleting fish. cleaver: A heavy, rectangular blade used to chop through bones

Terms paring knife: knife with a stiff blade used for trimming and peeling fruits and vegetables; blade is 2 to 4 inches longboning knife: A short thin knife with a pointed blade, used to remove raw meat and fish from bones with minimal wasteutility Knife: a smaller and lighter version of the Chef’s knife with a 5-7 inch bladetournée: also called a bird’s beak knife; small knife similar to paring knife but has a curved blade 12 PROPERTY OF PIMA COUNTY JTED, 2010

The 2 Most Used Knives • Think-Pair-Share • What do you think they are and why? Be prepared to share!

Knife Types Chef’s Knife • Most used knife • Multipurpose • Slicing/dicing/chopping http://www.chefs-cookware.co.uk/acatalog/chefs-knife-l.jpg

Knife Types • Trimming • Peeling • Stiff blade Paring Knife http://paringknife.net/images/3.jpg

Sharpening Your Knife • What is so important about sharpening your knife? • 1. The angle • 2. The method

Determining Angles of Sharpening The proper angle for sharpening a knife blade on a whetstone is between 20o and 25o

Terms whetstone: A stone used to grind the edge of the blade.sharpening steel: A steel instrument – usually a round rod – used for sharpening knivesmineral oil: used to keep the whetstone lubricatedSEE VIDEO on www.rouxbe.com 18 PROPERTY OF PIMA COUNTY JTED, 2010

Closure Ticket Out • Re-evaluate yourself on the scale from your bell-work, based on your what you learned today. • Name 3 knives and 3 parts of a knife. • Give your Ticket Out to the teacher when you finish

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Nazi Knives & Daggers: German Third Reich Daggers & Knives

(This site is reader-supported. When you buy something using retail links on our articles, we may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Nazi knives are the weapons that the Third Reich (the Nazi State) ruled by Adolf Hitler as the Chancellor used during their regime, especially during World War II. Thus, they are also known as the German Third Reich knives. Many were daggers; they are also known as the Nazi daggers or the German Third Reich daggers. The Third Reich is known to design some of the best edge weapons of all time.

At that time, the armed forces in the state possessed swords, knives, or daggers for almost every event. Considering the high quality, royal design, and oddity, these blades have become a center of attraction for many.

These tools’ top-quality construction, historical relevance, and charm make them an obvious army collectible. These daggers were also popular souvenirs for several World War II veterans serving in the European cinema.

The German officers who used these tools were an icon of power and status. However, instead of using them as weapons, World War II German officers utilized them as uniform accessories.

Seizing your foe’s blade or sword or getting it in surrender is important in combat. This is perhaps why we can see several Third Reich Nazi daggers and Katanas of Japan with civilians who are not necessarily knife enthusiasts or military collectors.

Unfortunately, as with any product having a high value, it has sadly become common to find fake Nazi daggers. They started to appear during the ending months of the war. Initially, these replicas were built using the original parts plundered from stores seized by the allied troops.

Today, you can easily come across new reproductions.

Types of Nazi Daggers and Knives

Several courageous allied soldiers considered these Nazi daggers essential to take home. These war-tired hands gradually buried these souvenirs away from sight. As many of these brave warriors are alas passing away, their daggers are coming to light through their relatives.

The daggers were designed in different forms and were made available to the German army officers, navy, political parties, air force, and social groups of the government. Each of them has a discrete design. No other nation’s army on the planet has ever recorded these many variations for daggers as the Third Reich’s armed forces.

Due to the variety of designs and diverse theme variations, these knives form a fascinating collection for historians and knife enthusiasts alike. Rarer models get sold for huge sums of money when kept at auction. Let’s take a look at the popular Nazi daggers and knives.

The German Army Dagger / The Heer Dagger

The German armed forces were keen on the appearance of their soldiers, as they wanted each of them to feel like a proud member. The German Army dagger is one of them.

The Army dagger was a normal dress accessory for the German Army (Heer) and not a weapon. They came with various design characteristics, such as a cross guard with the Nazi eagle with spread wings and swastika in its wreath and a pommel with an ornamental ring of oak leaves from the grip to the pommel’s top.

Unlike the famous SS and SA daggers, the blade was plain without the engraved motto. The scabbard was initially made up of brass, later replaced by steel. The grip had an inscribed spiral groove in orange, white, or yellow. It was made using stylish materials such as amber glass or ivory.

Originally released in 1932, the Army dagger is one of the most affordable German daggers. It had a single design, but one could customize it by engraving the blade and changing the handle color and hanger type.

The initial dagger featured a hard-to-find white handle, which later turned orange. It was worn by all field Marshall officers. It was last produced in 1944, after which no officers were allowed to wear it. Interestingly, no distinct marks were there on the dagger to distinguish between the low- and high-rank officers.

The charm of this dagger is in its plain yet eye-catching design. The handle features a celluloid swirl pattern in white or orange color, and a crown-shaped pommel made up of metal and oak leaves projecting from the sides.

The metal handguard has circular swirl ends. The army’s icon, the eagle with lengthy wings, is seen at the handguard’s front with its rear been left plain. The eagle’s beak features a straight edge just like an ax’s head. This design is called the hatchet face.

The blade has the manufacturer’s logo and reflects a knight’s helmet oriented towards the left. The ‘WKC’ initials with Solingen as the word below them are seen beneath the head. Did you know that WKC was known for its quality daggers? The blade has no Nazi motto in Gothic script.

The scabbard shows noticeable pebbling. Two braces, one at the midpoint and close to the throat, exist where suspension rings are affixed. The hangers are attached to these rings.

The arms of the cloth hangers are attached to only one metal bracket. They are seamed together so that they remain intact. When wearing, the bracket hooked onto a snap inside the officer’s jacket and hung at the side. At times, the appearance of this dagger was accentuated by covering the handle with a portapee. The whole body reflects a rust-like look.

The Luftwaffe Dagger / Air Force Dagger

The Luftwaffe dagger was also a normal accessory for army officers and a few high-ranking non-commissioned officers of the privileged German Air Force (Luftwaffe). The knife has many features as that of the Army dagger.

A few of them are the Nazi eagle with a swastika, ornate pommel but with a protruding swastika at the center, oak leaves, blade without the motto, grips in three colors, and carved groove but highlighted using silver, brass, or aluminum wire.

There are two Luftwaffe knives, namely, the first and second models. The first type had nickel fittings, while the second one had aluminum. Even the pommel and handguard differed.

• First Model : The first model was introduced in 1934. Its distinguishing feature is the hanger affixed permanently to the scabbard. A clip at its end contains the brand name and is used to attach the knife to a carrying belt. The double-edge, not-sharpened blade is of stiletto type and has a flat plain center. The dark blue grip is made of celluloid and has a grooved spiral pattern. The groove may have a three-strand wire of aluminum and silver. The silver handguard shows a loose three-tear pattern. A swirl-type swastika is at its center. The blade’s base contains a small leather piece to offer padding. The dark blue scabbard is made using Corinthian leather to compliment the handle. There are three fittings on silver: at the throat, a chain strap, and a tip cover. The strap and throat fittings have a hanger chain permanently attached to them. The end of the chain shows a clip for keeping the dagger inside the uniform.
• Second Model : The Luftwaffe introduced the second model in 1934. All the metal fittings are made using cast aluminum. The rear of the metal handguard shows heavy pebbling, which varies from one manufacturer to another. The pommel is spherical and shows a swastika. Originally, it was gold in color. However, this color gradually vanished from most models. The scabbard’s sides are smooth and feature an oakleaf design at its tip and a pebbled finish throughout its body. The top of the scabbard has dark and light sections, of which the latter has an area where the eagle averted the color change. The scabbard features two metal braces with two rings. This is where the hanger of heavy-duty cloth and intricate patterns attaches to the knife. The scabbard also has metal fittings with square buckles in leaf shape, which allow adjusting the length of the hanger’s each side. The blade shows the manufacturer’s logo at its base.

The WWII German Navy Dagger / Kriegsmarine Dagger

The Kriegsmarine was the German navy’s identity between 1935 and 1945. It was the last armed service to use daggers featuring a swastika. The naval dagger usually had a metallic pommel, a handle with a white wire-wrapped pattern, an extended cross guard on both sides, and a scabbard with two suspension rings and two bands. There were two models of this navy dagger, which are as follows:

• First Model : This dagger was used during WWI and until 1938. The design had a pommel having a flame ball shape with a point above it and a wavy pattern below it. The cellulite handle had a swirled design featuring a wire wrapping pattern. The crossguard featured an anchor and a rectangular midpoint with extensions featuring a crown shape on both sides—a spring-loaded button in the front of the crossguard aided in locking the dagger to the scabbard. The scabbard featured several dimples and a hammered style. It had two bands, one near the middle and another close to the throat. A suspension ring existed from each band. A few daggers used a portapee that formed a silver cord, a loop culminating in a tight knot around the pommel and the crossguard. The blade was of a stiletto style, and almost half of it was embellished with etchings of anchors and leaves. The first model also showed a manufacturer’s logo at the locking mechanism, featuring a squirrel holding a sword.
• Second Model : This dagger had a design similar to the first model, with the crossguard and pommel as exceptions. The crossguard replaced the rectangular center with a square one. The pommel design adopted in 1938 had no flame ball shape but reflected an eagle with withdrawn wings showing some plumage, and its head was oriented to the left. The chest showed a feathering pattern. Typically, the eagle grabbed a wreath with a swastika in the middle. The scabbard was adorned with linear patterns in four sections. This embellishment was found in both rear and at the front. It had the same bands and suspension rings as in the first model. Its finial was usually flattened. All dagger parts were composed of brass, except for the blade. This helped the dagger to withstand the harshness of the open sea. The stiletto-style blade featured a double edge and the manufacturer’s logo on one side.

The navy personnel used a short-style dagger during the Third Reich. While the pommel and crossguard remained the same as in the second model, the stiletto-style double-edged blade was made using Damascus steel. The blade featured stunning detailing, which was packed to form an impossible pattern. The term ‘Solingen’ was etched at its base, which indicates the town name wherein the blade was made. Besides this, no other marks existed. Even the scabbard was a bit unique because it was made using leather, not metal. A strap prolonged along the handle’s length and had a belt at the top to fit the dagger well when within the scabbard.

Hitler Youth Knives (HJ Knives)

As the name suggests, Hitler Youth knives were made for the Hitler Youth (Hitler Jugend (HJ)). Hitler Youth was the Nazi form of the Boy Scouts with girls. The Nazi party’s paramilitary youth organization lasted from 1922 to 1945.

These tools were given as rewards to boys after clearing the state exams. These tools were sold to and carried by boys as a part of their uniform and were comparable to those borne by the Sturmabteilung or SA.

The early versions had the engraved motto, ‘Blut und Ehre!’, which means ‘Blood and Honor!’ Unfortunately, it is tough to find them in pristine condition as they were given to youngsters.

These knives were utilitarian, which means they were designed to be used in the field. The pommel is a solid metal area with a short expansion to a side. The handle with a checkered pattern is made of plastic and has two rivets to hold it firmly.

The diamond logo is at the handle’s center is made using enamel. There is a black swastika in the middle. The crossguard has one flat side, and the other extends upwards in a curvy way.

The metal scabbard is typically black. A spherical but small rivet is there close to the throat. Inside, two white pads, which may be missing from the scabbard, guide the blade while inserting the knife. These knives had different markings at the blade’s base, such as the district where it is issued, manufacturing cities such as Solingen, and RZM marking.

The plain blade has a single edge and has the motto. However, this motto is not found in the later models, perhaps due to excessive sharpening. The blade’s base has a leather washer. Initially, the blade’s hilt was not clearly defined, but the later models reflected a ridge to show the hilt.

A genuine HJ knife will have a rivet on the scabbard, not appear big, and have a diamond logo with a rocker motion. The latter is optional.

The SA Dagger

Produced in the millions by hundreds of makers from 1933 until the end of the war, the SA dagger is among the most affordable blades to pick. Interestingly, not all manufacturers made the full dagger; a few just collected parts from other factories, assembled, and put the logo on the plain blade. All SA blades are imprinted with ‘Alles Fur Deutschland,’ meaning ‘All for the fatherland.’

The SA daggers were ordered by Hitler for the adherents of National Sozialistische Deutsche Arbeiter Partei (NSDAP) or National Socialist German Workers Party. They acted as symbols of status and rank. The design had the elements of the Holbein dagger, a hunting knife in Germany of the 16 th century.

The daggers had the Nazi eagle with prolonged wings wide, catching a wreath with a prominent swastika. In addition, there was a SA symbol in a sphere atop the wooden grip and a unique curved grip molded from maple, birch, and walnut.

The earlier models differed in sizes of handles, blades, and scabbards. Until the RZM numbering standard was introduced for universal quality control in 1934, it was tough or impossible to swap parts between SA daggers due to these differences.

A few early versions had no circular SA insignia but had a different phrase, ‘Deutschland Uber Alles’, meaning Germany Above All. Following are some of the SA daggers used during the Nazi regime:

Standard 1933 : Was a basic dagger produced copiously and issued to all SA members. It typically had a single leather hanger.

SA Rohm : Was made to acknowledge Ernst Rohm’s contributions to the SA. It was identical to the standard model, except that it came with an engraving, ‘In Herzlicher Freundschaft Ernst Rohm,’ meaning ‘In heartfelt comradeship, Ernst Rohm’, on the blade’s reverse area. However, later, all Rohm daggers were destroyed or were marked with a special inscription. Although hard to find, a Rohm dagger featured no RZM number but nickel-silver fittings instead of plated.

Marine : Was made for the members of the SA’s naval department. Two marine models existed, which were modeled based on the 1933 model. The first model had a black anodized scabbard and a black wooden handle with an eagle illustration and SA logo. The second model had a brown scabbard, brass or copper fittings, and a brown handle.

SA Honor : Was issued by Ernst Rohm and Victor Lutze, his successor. Those knives issued by Victor were given to high-ranking officers. It was often known as ‘brownshirts’ for the uniform’s color, which set it apart from Schutzstaffel (SS). Multiple configurations of this dagger existed but were as per the 1933 model. Some alterations included a crossguard and an adorned hilt. In addition, these models were embellished with oakleaf sculptures. Scabbard fittings were plain or adorned. The metal scabbard also had a brown leather wrap. The hanger had a brown leather strap. The early models had Damascus blades.

Feldherrnhalle : Feldherrnhalle marked the site where Hitler first tried to take control of Germany. In 1937, a new dagger of the same name and distinct design was made and issued for the Feldherrnhalle and Lutze’s staff leaders. The blade was identical to the Army blade, with the middle portion flat. Its other side had the maker’s logo (Eickhorn squirrel).

The SS Dagger

Made for elite members of the SS who were Hitler’s bodyguards, the SS daggers are identified by the deep black handle and a round ‘SS’ button atop the grip beneath the top cross guard. The design has many instances of Nazi symbolism.

More noticeable design features include the Nazi eagle with a wreath and swastika, the ebony wood grip in black, and the blade’s center with the motto ‘Meine Ehre Heist Treue,’ meaning My Honor is Loyalty.

SS daggers had RZM numbers, although many had no markings on the blade. The pommel had a small round nut. Zinc fittings existed at the handle’s both ends. The scabbard was of metal and in black. The throat had a suspension ring where the hanger was attached.

Some SS dagger models were 1933, SS Rohm honor, and 1936 SS honor. However, due to high popularity, many fake models of the SS dagger were produced later.

The German Red Cross Dagger

Known as Deutsches Rotes Kreuz (DRK), the German Red Cross existed before the Third Reich and functioned as a civilian organization crewed by volunteers and a few paid personnel. It was recognized as per the Geneva agreement of 1929.

As per the Geneva rules, the Red Cross members involved in fighting should not wear a weapon when performing their civilized duties.

The DRK initially used the swastika as its symbol and later started using a dagger. The members wore the subordinate hewer or the leader’s dagger as per their rank.

Red Cross Subordinate Hewer : It had a dual purpose of being worn at special programs such as parades and weddings and carried to the frontline. It featured a large, heavy, and menacing blade of chromed finish and a double-tooth serrated rear covering most of the blade length. The serrated edge was used on the battlefield. The tip ends shortly in a straight cut to adhere to the requirements of the Geneva rules that did not allow a pointed tip. The pommel was a solid metal of silver color, while the handle was of plastic. The handle’s front part showed a checkered pattern, whereas the rear was smooth. Even the thick cross guard was silver in color. In its middle was an eagle within an oval. The scabbard was metallic and had smooth black paint. The round finial was of silver metal. An anchor of a leather frog appeared close to the throat’s neck. A belt loop existed in its upper area.

Red Cross Leader Dagger : Only those of leader rank used this dagger, which was meant to be worn only with the uniform as per the Geneva conventions. Its design had an oval pommel of silver metal with a multi-point head screw to hold all the other dagger parts in place. The orange handle was made using cellulite plastic and had a swirled design. The scabbard was made using a metal piece and had pebbling panels. The finial was integrated instead of being available as a separate fitting. The stiletto-style blade had a sharp point and a double-edged style. The crossguard with the oval eagle was noticeable enough to cover a part of the blade’s base. It was made using a single piece with many liens, making it look like a multi-piece construction. The pebbling pattern covered the rear and front panels of the scabbard. Fabricated bands existed at the scabbard’s throat and mid-point, where a hanger was linked using clips. The hanger suspension opening was rectangular.

The RAD Dagger

The Reichsarbeitsdienst (RAD) or the Reich Labor Corps organization was established to uplift the condition of the economic downturn by employing people to rebuild the national infrastructure and developing public work programs.

Service was perceived as a bridge between school finishing and military service. As a result, RAD issued two different daggers, subordinate hewer and leader dagger, which had the Eickhorn logo stamp on the blades until 1941.

RAD Subordinate Hewer : It featured a stag horn handle, an upturned cross guard, and a pommel with an eagle head. The metallic scabbard had two big fittings plated with nickel, one being the finial with the RAD logo featuring a spade with two wheat sheaths and the other with a Celtic design in the throat area. Three different handle models were used for this hewer. The single-edged, chromed blade was stout, with the spine tapering close to the end to give a distinct tip look. A blood groove covered more than half of the blade. A motto called ‘Arbeit Adelt,’ meaning ‘Labor enables,’ existed in the middle of the blade. The enlisted members and leaders wore this dagger for the initial three years of its introduction.

RAD Leader Dagger : It was lighter and was more embellished than the hewer. All scabbard fittings were plated with nickel or silver. The handle was either yellow or white. The pommel showed the eagle head, while the cross guard showed the RAD logo in the middle. It had a double-turn-down design. The single-edged blade had the same design as that of the hewer.

NSKK Dagger

The Nationalsozialistisches Kraftfahrkorps (NSKK), or The National Socialist Motor Corps, was the Nazi’s small paramilitary organization operated from 1931 to 1945. Its members used the following daggers:

1933 Pattern NSKK : The frontline personnel used this dagger from 1933 to 1945. The blade had the stiletto style and a double edge. One of its sides had the motto, ‘Alles fur Deutschland,’ meaning ‘All for the Fatherland.’ The knife also featured a small, cylindrical pommel and lower and upper cross guards made using copper or tombak. The handle was of wood and had the shape of a Coke bottle. On its side, a SA eagle was added along with a SA circular device above it. The daggers came with a triangular paper bag, and a triangular, black-lined tag draped around the handle. A metal rivet kept the sides closed, while the center had the NSKK eagle and the text, ‘NSKK – Dienstdolch’. The paper bag was light brown and said, ‘NSKK Dolch.’ A few bags also showed the RZM number.

Marine NSKK : This dagger was a lightly modified version of the standard NSKK dagger and belonged to the marine section of the NSKK. There were two models of scabbards for this dagger, namely, basic and chained. Both had fittings with copper or tombak finish. The dagger’s chained version was the model 1936, featuring a unique middle segment. The chain was affixed to the middle and top fittings.

Model 1936 NSKK : This dagger was a response to the chained SS dagger. It was similar to the 1933 NSKK pattern, with the only exceptions being the inclusion of a suspension chain and the addition of a mid-point prop on the scabbard to hold the chain’s lower section. The chain had square segments affixed using locker rings to each other. Each portion of the chain was embellished with an eagle and a sun wheel swastika. Both portions of the chain were affixed using suspension rings to the scabbard. Two types of fittings were used: nickel silver in the early versions and nickel plating over the base metal in the newer ones.

NSKK Rohm : This NSKK dagger was derived from the SA. Its blade was identical to that of the normal NSKK dagger. While one side mentioned ‘Alles fur Deutschland’, the other specified the motto, ‘In Herzlicher Freundschaft Ernst Rohm’ meaning ‘In heartfelt comradeship, Ernst Rohm’. You can find this dagger in three states, in Rohm inscription (toughest to find), with the Rohm name removed and the manufacturer’s logo removed.

The RLB Dagger

The RLB was the National Air Defense League, a paramilitary organization that was issued daggers to be worn with the uniform. Two types of daggers were initially adopted in 1936: the subordinate and the leader. In 1938, modified versions of these daggers were introduced and were termed, Second models.

First Pattern 1936 Subordinate : This dagger came with a spherical silver pommel, wooden or ebony handle, cross guard with extended wings and a squarish eagle oriented to the right, and a metallic scabbard. The handle showed the RLB logo on one of its sides. The eagle’s feet showed a wreath with a swastika in the center. The double-edged blade was of a stiletto style with a middle ridge spanning the entire length and had no motto. Due to the blade’s short length, the dagger was a knife. The black scabbard had a tip with a silver fitting, a rivet close to the throat, a leather strap, a triangular suspension bracket, and a spring-loaded silver clip.

First Pattern 1936 Leader : This dagger had a design similar to the subordinate one, except for the overall length, which was more by an inch. The pommel had an oval shape, and a bit raised middle portion. The handle was constructed using wood and dark blue or black leather coating. Its middle part had the RLB starburst logo. The crossguard showed an art deco eagle with extended wings to form guards. The metallic scabbard had two silver-plated fittings; one was the finial and the other at the throat. One of its sides had a suspension ring where a leather strap acted as a hanger.

Second Pattern 1938 Subordinate : This dagger had a design similar to the former subordinate model except for the metal logo at the handle’s center. The round pommel was of metal and silver in color. The lower area spanned beyond the perimeter to generate a thick ring. The metal logo was now large RLB initials and a small swastika at the base. The blade’s center ridge spanned across its entire length.

Second Pattern 1938 Leader : This dagger had a design similar to the former leader model but with few differences. The original big RLB letters followed by a small swastika was now only a big black enamel swastika. The scabbard had one more fitting in its middle part and the two fittings. Suspension rings were present in the middle and upper fittings.

The K98 Bayonet

The K98 bayonet was made to be mounted on the 98K Mauser rifle. It featured a metal pommel with a rectangular press button on one end and round on the other. It was a spring-loaded device that aimed at separating the bayonet from the rifle. The pommel had stampings such as eagle shapes.

The handle grips were either of wood or bakelite. The scabbard was metal and had leather or khaki frog stud close to its throat area. The finial component reflected a ball shape. Additional markings such as the maker’s identity, serial number, and year were seen in the throat area.

The single-edged blade was made using blue tempered steel. However, at the tip, there was a double-edged design. A thick blood groove spanned to cover more than half the length of the blade.

The German Fighting Knife

The fighting boot knife , introduced during WWI for combats in trenches, was used throughout WWII. It was small in size to carry it on the boot side. It came with different blade shapes, such as single-edged, double-edged, and a mix of the two with a larger ricasso.

The pommel had a small wooden projection, while the cross guard was simply a thin piece of metal with only one side inclined to a few degrees. In some models, the crossguard was a thicker piece of metal whose width was not bigger than the rest of the knife.

The handles were constructed using different designs and materials. However, a common characteristic was that two or three rivets fastened them. Some handles were utilitarian without any attractive finish. The costly ones were more refined and had brighter colors and smooth textures.

The scabbard was black, but the pint was worn off to show the metal finish. It had a large clip for carrying the knife on the belt or via a boot.

The Dress Bayonet

A few non-military groups only used dress daggers, which marked their status symbol. As these bayonets were not for combat use, not all had a guide, an opening in the pommel, and handle portions that helped secure the bayonet to the rifle. Color felt inserts were added to the guide.

Different handles were seen on these daggers, such as stag handles, a black plastic handle with a crisscross pattern, and a stag handle with a silver police icon in the middle. Two rivets secured the handle grips. Their shape and size differed significantly as per the model. Some were simple, while others had embellishments like a dome head.

Most pommels had the shape of a bird’s head in which the eye was a press button. Most blades were chromed and were plain. However, many owners had engraved it with military scenes, mottos, and eagles.

Nazi knives are worth having in your unique collection, whether a seasoned or a beginning collector. Unfortunately, while many fake models come across, the original or genuine ones have ceased to exist. Thus, you are likely to have a hard time finding the original daggers of the Nazi regime.

Hi, I am Jay. I am the creator of Knife Guides, your one-stop site for everything related to knives. I am a computer engineer by profession, knife aficionado by passion. Here I work with a group of people who’ve always had a passion for knives and blades. Over the years we’ve kind of become experts and decided to share our knowledge and ideas. I am also an avid hiker and enjoy offshore gamefishing.

Watch CBS News

Salman Rushdie on the attack that nearly killed him and his new book "Knife"

By Anderson Cooper , Aliza Chasan , Michael H. Gavshon, Nadim Roberts

April 14, 2024 / 7:32 PM EDT / CBS News

Prolific author Salman Rushdie doesn't like to think about the man who almost stabbed him to death at a literary festival in Chautauqua, New York in August 2022.

In less than half a minute, Rushdie was stabbed and slashed in the face, neck, chest, abdomen, thigh and hand. He lost an eye in the attack and is still adjusting to the change. Rushdie doesn't use his attacker's name and it doesn't appear in his newest book, "Knife," hitting bookshelves Tuesday.

"He and I had 27 seconds together, you know? That's it," Rushdie, now 76, told 60 Minutes correspondent Anderson Cooper. "I don't need to give him any more of my time."

"Knife," Rushdie's 22nd book, is one he initially did not want to write. The book, however, felt unavoidable, and it became an opportunity for Rushdie to come to terms with the attack. 

"I need to focus on, you know, to use the cliché, the elephant in the room," Rushdie said. "And the moment I thought that, kinda something changed in my head. And it then became a book I really very much wanted to write."

Rushdie's previous brushes with death

For years, no place was safe for Salman Rushdie, whose sprawling 600-page novel "The Satanic Verses" offended some Muslims for its depiction of the Prophet Muhammad. Iran's then-Supreme Leader, Ayatollah Khomeini, issued a fatwa—a religious decree— calling for Rushdie's death in 1989. There were worldwide protests from London to Lahore. "The Satanic Verses" was burned and 12 people died in violent clashes with police. The book's Japanese translator was murdered, and others associated with the tome were attacked.

Rushdie had no idea then that his book would lead to such a violent backlash. 

"I thought probably some conservative religious people wouldn't like it. But they didn't like anything I wrote anyway," he said. "So I thought, 'Well, they don't have to read it.'"

Rushdie, who was born in India, was living in London when he went into hiding to evade the assassins sent to kill him. The British government provided him with 24-hour police protection for 10 years. Over that period, Rushdie said there were as many as half a dozen serious assassination attempts from state-sponsored terrorism professionals.

The Iranian state called off its assassins in 1998 after diplomatic negotiations, but the bounty on his head remained.

What happened during the attack

Rushdie moved to New York in the early 2000s and for the next two decades lived openly. He continued writing and publishing books and became a celebrated advocate for freedom of expression. 

In 2022, Rushdie was invited to speak at a literary festival in Chautauqua, New York about a subject he knows all too well: the importance of protecting writers whose lives are under threat. 

Two days before the event, Rushdie had a dream in which he was being attacked, what he calls "a premonition."

"And it was just somebody with a spear stabbing downwards, and I was rolling around on the floor trying to get away from him," Rushdie said. "And I woke up and was quite shaken by it."

Rushdie almost pulled out of going to Chautauqua, but brushed off his concerns as he'd presented at many events in his years living in America. Rushdie hadn't had security detail in a long time, but the venues he spoke at usually had venue security. In this case, he said, there wasn't any.

Rushdie was seated at stage right before the attack, and writes about what happened next in his book "Knife."

"Then, in the corner of my right eye — the last thing my right eye would ever see — I saw the man in black running towards me down the right-hand side of the seating area," Rushdie writes. 

He describes his attacker as a "squat missile" wearing black clothes and a black mask.

"I confess, I had sometimes imagined my assassin rising up in some public forum or other, and coming for me in just this way." Rushdie writes. "So my first thought when I saw this murderous shape rushing towards me was, 'So it's you. Here you are.'"

Rushdie didn't see the knife and thought, at first, that he'd just been punched. Then he saw the blood. 

"I think he was just wildly, you know, flailing around," Rushdie said about his attacker. 

Rushdie doesn't remember being stabbed in the eye. 

"I remember falling. Then I remember not knowing what had happened to my eye ," Rushdie said. 

The attack lasted 27 seconds.

"That's quite a long time," Rushdie said. "That's the extraordinary half-minute of intimacy, you know, in which life meets death."

Rushdie's attacker was a 24-year-old Muslim man from New Jersey who lived in his mother's basement. He's believed to be a lone wolf. He has pleaded not guilty to attempted murder and is awaiting trial.

In an interview, he told the "New York Post" he'd only read a couple of pages of "The Satanic Verses" and seen some clips of Rushdie on YouTube. He said he "didn't like him very much" because Rushdie had "attacked Islam." 

His motive remains something of a mystery to Rushdie, who feels that if he'd written a character who knew so little about his proposed victim, his publishers would tell him the character was "under-motivated."

Aftermath of the attack on Rushdie

Audience members pulled the attacker off Rushdie while others desperately tried to stem the flow of his blood.

"I remember thinking that I was probably dying. And it was interesting because it was quite matter of fact…It wasn't, it wasn't like I was terrified of it or whatever," Rushdie said.

Rushdie's near-death experience hasn't left him with any revelations about what comes after death, "except that there's no revelation to be had."

Paramedics flew Rushdie to a hospital in Erie, Pennsylvania, 40 miles away, where a team of doctors battled for eight hours to save his life. When he finally came out of surgery, his wife Eliza Griffiths, a poet and novelist, was waiting.

"He was a different color. He was cold," she said. "His face was stapled. Just staples holding his face together."

Rushdie was on a ventilator, unable to speak. After 18 days in the hospital and three weeks in rehab, Rushdie was discharged. One of the surgeons told Rushdie he was both really unlucky and really lucky. 

"I said, 'What's the lucky part?' And he said, 'Well, the lucky part is that the man who attacked you had no idea how to kill a man with a knife," Rushdie said.

Have brushes with death changed Rushdie?

After "The Satanic Verses" was published, Rushdie felt the only thing people knew about him was the death threat against him and he doesn't want the 2022 attack to be yet another defining incident.

For Rushdie, the worst part of the attack two years ago beyond the physical wounds, was the feeling of being dragged into the past.  

"That sense of time warp, you know, of being dragged into a narrative that I thought had concluded," he said, "and then it turned out had not."

While Rushdie was attacked with a physical knife, he fought back with one that's more metaphorical: his writing. Rushdie thought he could use his book to take charge of what happened to him. 

"I mean, language is a way of breaking open the world," Rushdie said. "I don't have any other weapons."

He says he feels the presence of death more than he did before.

"I think that shadow is just there," Rushdie said. "And some days it's dark and some days it's not."

Almost 25 years ago, Rushdie, addressing the fatwa, said that he wanted to find an "and to this story. It is the one story I must find an end to." He thought he had found that ending until he was attacked in 2022.

"I'm hoping this is just a last twitch of that story," he said. "I don't know. I'll let you know."

• Salman Rushdie

Anderson Cooper, anchor of CNN's "Anderson Cooper 360," has contributed to 60 Minutes since 2006. His exceptional reporting on big news events has earned Cooper a reputation as one of television's preeminent newsmen.

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Salman Rushdie reflects on near-fatal stabbing 2 years later in new book ‘Knife’

R enowned author Salman Rushdie gave his first interview since his near-fatal 2022 stabbing on Sunday, reflecting on the death threats that have followed him for decades in a new book, “Knife.”

Rushdie, who became a targeted man after then-Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini issued a fatwa against him for his depiction of the Prophet Muhammad in “The Satanic Verses” in 1989, recalled the evening in August 2022 when the most recent attempt on his life nearly succeeded.

He was giving a presentation in Chautauqua, N.Y., discussing writers at risk of violence for their work

“In the corner of my right eye — the last thing my right eye would ever see — I saw the man in black running towards me down the right-hand side of the seating area,” he told Anderson Cooper in a “60 Minutes” interview. “Black clothes, black face mask. He was coming in hard and low. A squat missile.”

“I confess, I had sometimes imagined my assassin rising up in some public forum or other, and coming for me in just this way,” he continued. “So, my first thought when I saw this murderous shape rushing towards me was, ‘So it’s you. Here you are.’”

After nearly a decade of around-the-clock security protecting against Iran-backed assassins in the 1990s, Rushdie thought he was free from attempts on his life. 

“It felt like something coming out of the distant past. And trying to drag me back in time, if you like, back into that distant past in order to kill me,” Rushdie said. “And when he got to me. He basically hit me very hard here. And initially I thought I’d been punched.”

Rushdie was attacked 15 times over 27 seconds, his face, neck and chest stabbed and slashed. He lost sight in his right eye.

“I remember thinking that I was probably dying,” he said. “And it was interesting because it was quite matter-of-fact; it wasn’t like I was terrified of it or whatever. And yeah, there was nothing. No heavenly choirs. No pearly gates.” 

“I mean, I’m not a supernatural person, you know? I believe that death comes as the end. There was nothing that happened that made me change my mind about that,” he continued. “I have not had any revelation, except that there’s no revelation to be had.”

Rushdie barely survived the attack, being flown by helicopter to a hospital in Erie, Pa., and not being released until more than a month later.

His attacker was a 24-year-old who said he was inspired to attack because of “The Satanic Verses” depiction of the Prophet Muhammad, claiming Rushdie had “attacked Islam.”

“Knife,” Rushdie’s reflections on the experience, is his 22nd book, and not one that he initially wanted to write. He said he was tired of being known and followed by his death threats.

“It was very difficult for me, after ‘The Satanic Verses’ was published, that the only thing anybody knew about me was this death threat,” he said. “But it became clear to me that I couldn’t write anything else.”

“I need to focus on, you know, to use the cliché, the elephant in the room. And the moment I thought that, kinda something changed in my head,” he continued. “And it then became a book I really very much wanted to write.”

Rushdie is now fully recovered from the attack 20 months later, less an eye. He still lives in upstate New York.

“I don’t feel I’m very different, but I do feel that it has left a shadow,” he said. “I think that shadow is just there. You know, and some days it’s dark, and some days it’s not.”

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