sustainable clothing essay

News from the Columbia Climate School

Why Fashion Needs to Be More Sustainable

The pandemic slowed fast fashion to a standstill. Now as the world opens up and we are socializing and going places, we want to dress up again. But after living a confined and simpler life during COVID, this is a good time to take stock of the implications of how we dress. Fashion, and especially fast fashion, has enormous environmental impacts on our planet, as well as social ones.

Since the 2000s, fashion production has doubled and it will likely triple by 2050, according to the American Chemical Society. The production of polyester, used for much cheap fast fashion, as well as athleisure wear, has increased nine-fold in the last 50 years. Because clothing has gotten so cheap, it is easily discarded after being worn only a few times. One survey found that 20 percent of clothing in the US is never worn; in the UK, it is 50 percent. Online shopping, available day and night, has made impulse buying and returning items easier.

According to McKinsey, average consumers buy 60 percent more than they did in 2000, and keep it half as long. And in 2017, it was estimated that 41 percent of young women felt the need to wear something different whenever they left the house. In response, there are companies that send consumers a box of new clothes every month.

Fashion’s environmental impacts

Fashion is responsible for 10 percent of human-caused greenhouse gas emissions and 20 percent of global wastewater, and uses more energy than the aviation and shipping sectors combined.

Impacts on water

Global fashion also consumes 93 billion metric tons of clean water each year, about half of what Americans drink annually.

Cotton is an especially thirsty crop. For example, one kilogram of cotton used to produce a pair of jeans can consume 7,500 to 10,000 liters of water—the amount a person would drink over 10 years. Cotton production also requires pesticides and insecticides, which pollute the soil; runoff from fertilized cotton fields carry the excess nutrients to water bodies, causing eutrophication and algal blooms.

The dyeing process for fabrics, which uses toxic chemicals, is responsible for 17 to 20 percent of global industrial water pollution.

Seventy-two toxic chemicals have been found in the water used in textile dyeing.

Contributions to climate change

To feed the fashion industry’s need for wood pulp to make fabrics like rayon, viscose and other fabrics, 70 million tons of trees are cut down each year. That number is expected to double by 2034, speeding deforestation in some of the world’s endangered forests.

The fashion industry produces 1.2 million metric tons of CO2 each year, according to a  MacArthur Foundation study.  In 2018, it resulted in more greenhouse gas emissions than the carbon produced by France, Germany and the UK all together. Polyester, which is actually plastic made from fossil fuels, is used for about 65 percent of all clothing, and consumes 70 million barrels of oil each year. In addition, the fashion industry uses large amounts of fossil fuel-based plastic for packaging and hangers.

Less than one percent of clothing is recycled to make new clothes. The fibers in clothing are polymers, long chains of chemically linked molecules. Washing and wearing clothing shorten and weaken these polymers, so by the time a garment is discarded, the polymers are too short to turn into a strong new fabric. In addition, most of today’s textile-to-textile recycling technologies cannot separate out dyes, contaminants, or even a combination of fabrics such as polyester and cotton.

As a result, 53 million metric tons of discarded clothing are incinerated or go to landfills each year. In 2017, Burberry burned $37 million worth of unsold bags, clothes and perfume. If sent to a landfill, clothes made from natural fabrics like cotton and linen may degrade in weeks to months, but synthetic fabrics can take up to 200 years to break down. And as they do, they produce methane, a powerful global warming greenhouse gas.

Microplastic pollution

Many people have lived solely in athleisure wear during the pandemic, but the problem with this is that the stretch and breathability in most athleisure comes from the use of synthetic plastic fibers like polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex and others, which are made of plastic.

When clothes made from synthetics are washed, microplastics  from their fibers are shed into the wastewater. Some of it is filtered out at wastewater treatment plants along with human waste and the resulting sludge is used as fertilizer for agriculture. Microplastics then enter the soil and become part of the food chain. The microplastics that elude the treatment plant end up in rivers and oceans, and in the atmosphere when seawater droplets carry them into the air. It’s estimated that 35 percent of the microplastics in the ocean come from the fashion industry. While some brands use “recycled polyester” from PET bottles, which emits 50 to 25 percent fewer emissions than virgin polyester, effective polyester recycling is limited, so after use, these garments still usually end up in the landfill where they can shed microfibers.

Microplastics harm marine life, as well as birds and turtles. They have already been found in our food, water and air—one study found that Americans eat 74,000 microplastic particles each year. And while there is growing concern about this, the risks to human health are still not well understood.

Fashion’s social impacts

Because it must be cheap, fast fashion is dependent on the exploited labor force in developing countries where regulations are lax. Workers are underpaid, overworked, and exposed to dangerous conditions or health hazards; many are underage.

Of the 75 million factory workers around the world, it’s estimated that only two percent earn a living wage. To keep brands from moving to another country or region with lower costs, factories limit wages and are disinclined to spend money to improve working conditions. Moreover, workers often live in areas with waterways polluted by the chemicals from textile dyeing.

How can fashion be more sustainable?

As opposed to our current linear model of fashion production with environmental impacts at every stage, where resources are consumed, turned into a product, then discarded, sustainable fashion minimizes its environmental impact, and even aims to benefit the environment. The goal is a circular fashion industry where waste and pollution are eliminated, and materials are used for as long as possible, then reused for new products to avoid the need to exploit virgin resources.

Many designers, brands, and scientists — including students in Columbia University’s Environmental Science and Policy program — are exploring ways to make fashion more sustainable and circular.

Since 80 to 90 percent of the sustainability of a clothing item is determined by decisions made during its design stage, new strategies can do away with waste from the get-go.

To eliminate the 15 percent of a fabric that usually ends up on the cutting room floor in the making of a garment, zero waste pattern cutting is used to arrange pattern pieces on fabric like a Tetris puzzle.

Designer YeohLee  is known as a zero waste pioneer, employing geometric concepts in order to use every inch of fabric; she also creates garments with the leftovers of other pieces. Draping and knitting are also methods of designing without waste.

3D virtual sampling can eliminate the need for physical samples of material. A finished garment can sometimes require up to 20 samples. The Fabricant , a digital fashion house, replaces actual garments with digital samples in the design and development stage and claims this can reduce a brand’s carbon footprint by 30 percent.

Some clothing can be designed to be taken apart at the end of its life; designing for disassembly makes it easier for the parts to be recycled or upcycled into another garment. To be multifunctional, other garments are reversible, or designed so that parts can be subtracted or added. London-based brand Petit Pli makes children’s clothing from a single recycled fabric, making it easier to recycle; and the garments incorporate pleats that stretch so that kids can continue to wear them as they grow.

3D printing can be used to work out details digitally before production, minimizing trial and error; and because it can produce custom-fit garments on demand, it reduces waste. In addition, recycled materials such as plastic and metal can be 3D printed.

Sustainable designer Iris Ven Herpen is known for her fabulous 3D printed creations, some using upcycled marine debris; she is also currently working with scientists to develop sustainable textiles.

DyeCoo , a Dutch company, has developed a dyeing technique that uses waste CO2 in place of water and chemicals. The technology pressurizes CO2 so that it becomes supercritical and allows dye to readily dissolve, so it can enter easily into fabrics. Since the process uses no water, it produces no wastewater, and requires no drying time because the dyed fabric comes out dry. Ninety-five percent of the CO2 is recaptured and reused, so the process is a closed-loop system.

Heuritech , a French startup, is using artificial intelligence to analyze product images from Instagram and Weibo and predict trends. Adidas, Lee, Wrangler and other brands have used it to anticipate future demand and plan their production accordingly to reduce waste.

Mobile body scanning  can help brands produce garments that fit a variety of body types instead of using standard sizes. 3D technology is also being used for virtual dressing, which will enable consumers to see how a garment looks on them before they purchase it. These innovations could lead to fewer returns of clothing.

Another way to reduce waste is to eliminate inventory. On-demand product fulfillment companies like Printful  enable designers to sync their custom designs to the company’s clothing products. Garments are not created until an order comes in.

For Days,  a closed-loop system, gives swap credits for every article of clothing you buy; customers can use swap credits to get new clothing items, all made from organic cotton or recycled materials. The swap credits encourage consumers to send in unwanted For Days clothes, keep them out of the landfill, and allow them to be made into new materials. Customers can also earn swap credits by filling one of the company’s Take Back bags with any old clothes, in any condition, and sending it in; these are then resold if salvageable or recycled as rags.

But perhaps the least wasteful strategy enables consumers not to buy any clothes at all. If they are mainly concerned about their image on social media, they can use digital clothing that is superimposed over their image. The Fabricant , which creates these digital garments,  aims to make “self expression through digital clothing a sustainable way to explore personal identity.”

Better materials

Many brands are using textiles made from natural materials such as hemp, ramie or bamboo instead of cotton. Bamboo has been touted as a sustainable fabric because it is fast-growing and doesn’t require much water or pesticides; however, some old growth forests are being cut down to make way for bamboo plantations. Moreover, to make most bamboo fabrics soft, they are subjected to chemical processing whose toxins can harm the environment and human health.

Because of this processing, the Global Organic Textile Standard says that almost all bamboo fiber can “not be considered as natural or even organic fibre, even if the bamboo plant was certified organic on the field.”

Some designers are turning to organic cotton, which is grown without toxic chemicals. But because organic cotton yields are 30 percent less than conventional cotton, they need 30 percent more water and land to produce the same amount as conventional cotton. Other brands, such as North Face and Patagonia, are creating clothing made from regenerative cotton—cotton grown without pesticides, fertilizers, weed pulling or tilling, and with cover crops and diverse plants to enhance the soil.

Textiles are also being made with fibers from agriculture waste, such as leaves and rinds. Orange Fiber, an Italian company, is using nanotechnology to make a sustainable silky material by processing the cellulose of oranges. H&M is using cupro, a material made from cotton waste. Flocus makes fully biodegradable and recyclable yarns and fabrics from the fibers of kapok tree pods through a process that doesn’t harm the trees. Kapok trees can grow in poor soils without much need for water or pesticides.

In 2016, Theanne Schiros, a principal investigator at Columbia University’s Materials Research Science and Engineering Center  and assistant professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), mentored a group of FIT students who created a bio-design award-winning material from algae. Kelp, its main ingredient, is fast growing, absorbs CO2 and nitrogen from agricultural runoff, and helps increase biodiversity. With the help of Columbia University’s Helen Lu, a biomedical engineer, the team created a bio-yarn they called AlgiKnit . Having received over $2 million in initial seed funding, the start-up, based in Brooklyn, is scaling up for market entry.

Schiros and Lu also developed a microbial bioleather. The compostable material consists of a nanocellulose mesh made through a fermentation process using a culture of bacteria and yeast. Schiros explained that these bacteria produce cellulose nanofibers as part of their metabolism; the bacteria were used in the fermentation of kombucha as early as 220 BC in what was Manchuria and in vinegar fermentation as early as 5,000 BC in Egypt. Biofabrication of the material is 10,000 times less toxic to humans than chrome-tanned leather, with an 88 to 97 percent smaller carbon footprint than synthetic (polyurethane) leather or other plastic-based leather alternatives. The fabrication process also drew on ancient textile techniques for tanning and dyeing. Schiros worked with the designers of Public School NY  on Slow Factory’s   One x One Conscious Design Initiative  challenge to create zero-waste, naturally dyed sneakers from the material.

Schiros is also co-founder and CEO of the startup Werewool , another collaboration with Lu, and with Allie Obermeyer of Columbia University Chemical Engineering. Werewool, which was recognized by the 2020 Global Change Award, creates biodegradable textiles with color and other attributes found in nature using synthetic biology . “Nature has evolved a genetic code to make proteins that do things like have bright color, stretch, moisture management, wicking, UV protection—all the things that you really want for performance textiles, but that currently come at a really high environmental cost,” said Schiros. “But nature accomplishes all this and that’s attributed to microscopic protein structures.”

Werewool engineers proteins inspired by those found in coral, jellyfish, oysters, and cow milk that result in color, moisture management or stretch. The DNA code for those proteins is inserted into bacteria, which ferment and mass-produce the protein that then becomes the basis for a fiber. The company will eventually provide its technology and fibers to other companies throughout the supply chain and will likely begin with limited edition designer brands.

Better working conditions

There are companies now intent on improving working conditions for textile workers. Dorsu  in Cambodia creates clothing from fabric discarded by garment factories. Workers are paid a living wage, have contracts, are given breaks, and also get bonuses, overtime pay, insurance and paid leave for sickness and holidays.

Mayamiko  is a 100 percent PETA-certified vegan brand that advocates for labor rights and created the Mayamiko Trust to train disadvantaged women.

Workers who make Ethcs ’ PETA-certified vegan garments are protected under the Fair Wear Foundation , which ensures a fair living wage, safe working conditions and legal labor contracts for workers. The Fair Wear Foundation website lists 128 brands it works with.

Beyond sustainability

Schiros maintains that making materials in collaboration with traditional artisans and Indigenous communities can produce results that address environmental, social and economic facets of sustainability. She led a series of natural dye workshops with women tie dyers in Kindia, Guinea, and artisans in Grand-Bassam, Côte d’Ivoire, and collaborated with New York designers to make a zero-waste collection from the fabrics created. The project   connected FIT faculty and students to over 300 artisans in West Africa to create models for inclusive, sustainable development through textile arts, education, and entrepreneurship.

Partnering with frontline communities that are protecting, for example, the Amazon rainforest, does more than simply sustain—it protects biodiversity and areas that are sequestering carbon. “So with high value products that incorporate fair trade and clear partnerships into the supply chain, you not only have natural, biodegradable materials, but you have the added bonus of all that biodiversity that those communities are protecting,” she said. “Indigenous communities are five percent of the global population, and they’re protecting 80 percent of the biodiversity in the world…Integrating how we make our materials, our systems and the communities that are sequestering carbon while protecting biodiversity is critically important.”

The need for transparency

In order to ensure fashion’s sustainability and achieve a circular fashion industry, it must be possible to track all the elements of a product from the materials used, chemicals added, production practices, and product use, to the end of life, as well as the social and environmental conditions under which it was made.

Blockchain technology can do this by recording each phase of a garment’s life in a decentralized tamper-proof common ledger. Designer Martine Jarlgaard partnered with blockchain tech company Provenance to create QR codes that, when scanned, show the garment’s whole history. The software platform Eon has also developed a way to give each garment its own digital fingerprint called Circular ID. It uses a digital identifier embedded in the clothing that enables it to be traced for its whole lifecycle.

Transparency is also important because it enables consumers to identify greenwashing when they encounter it. Greenwashing is when companies intentionally deceive consumers or oversell their efforts to be sustainable.

Amendi , a sustainable fashion brand focusing on transparency and traceability, co-founded by Columbia University alumnus Corey Spencer, has begun a campaign to get the Federal Trade Commission to update its Green Guides, which outline the principles for the use of green claims. When the most recent versions of the Green Guides were released in 2012, they did not scrutinize the use of “sustainability” and “organic” in marketing. The use of these terms has exploded since then and unless regulated, could become meaningless or misleading.

What consumers can do

The key to making fashion sustainable is the consumer. If we want the fashion industry to adopt more sustainable practices, then as shoppers, we need to care about how clothing is made and where it comes from, and demonstrate these concerns through what we buy. The market will then respond.

We can also reduce waste through how we care for our clothing and how we discard it.

Here are some tips on how to be a responsible consumer:

• Buy only what you need
• Look for sustainable certification from the Fairtrade Foundation , Global Organic Textiles Standard , Soil Association , and Fair Wear Foundation  
• Check the Fashion Transparency Index to see how a company ranks in transparency.
• Learn how to shop for quality and invest in higher-quality clothing
• Choose natural fibers and single fiber garments
• Wear clothing for longer
• Take care of clothing: wash items less often, repair them so they last. Patagonia operates Worn Wear , a recycling and repair program.
• Upcycle your unwanted clothes into something new
• Buy secondhand or vintage; sell your old clothes at Thred Up, Poshmark, or the Real Real.
• When discarding, pass clothing on to someone who will wear it, or to a thrift shop
• Rent clothing from Rent the Runway , Armoire or Nuuly

“I think the best piece of clothing is the one that already exists. The best fabric is the fabric that already exists,” said Schiros. “Keeping things in the supply chain in as many loops and cycles as you can is really, really important.”

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I’ve been buying second hand and or making my own clothes my whole life and I’m 72. It makes sense, it’s cost effective and that way you can buy more clothes or fabric. Win win.

So r u saying it is more cheap this way?

yes it does im the youngest of 7 so i get hand me downs it way more ecofrindly to

This is an excellent article! I am writing a paper on sustainable fashion and find this article to be an informative and eloquent resource in my research! Thank you!

What has Fast Fashion done to the labor practices, working conditions and wages of workers in Asian countries and what can be done to promote more sustainable and fair practices in the industry?

Making your own garments from natural, and ideally organic, fabrics is one of the best ways to both love your wardrobe (because the color, fit and design is something that works for you, specifically) and you can incorporate Construction techniques that prolong the life of the seams and the garment overall. just make sure you shrink it first!

Fabric scraps can be saved and repurposed, as solid pieces or patch worked together. A scrunchie. A cloth bag. Menstrual pads. Potholders. Tiny cloth plant pots. Little travel bags to protect shoes, hairdryer, toiletries, to separate socks and underwear. There are high end men’s shirts that incorporate interesting prints inside the collar and cuffs, for example. Then there is the ministry of making quilts. Quilts can be sent to refugees who Use them for warmth at night and for walls by day. they don’t have to be elaborate or elegant, but using a little bit of love and creativity, you can create something attractive. Torn sheets and worn out clothes can be repurposed and using them as fabric to instruct young sewers And how to handle different types of fabric is another worthy use. Imperfect attempts could be useful if the learner turns out a dog bed cover, or little sweaters for those dogs that get cold all the time. Animal shelters are usually very happy to receive these kinds of things.

Sewers can meet together for fabric swaps in the same way that people sometimes get together to do wardrobe swaps. That might be that someone else is done with the exact fabric that would be awesome to mix with something that you have left over.

very interesting. please share with us

Best post. Good to see content like this.

your information is very helpfull.

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Making Fashion Sustainable: Waste and Collective Responsibility

Debbie moorhouse.

1 Department of Fashion & Textiles, University of Huddersfield, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK

Fashion is a growing industry, but the demand for cheap, fast fashion has a high environmental footprint. Some brands lead the way by innovating to reduce waste, improve recycling, and encourage upcycling. But if we are to make fashion more sustainable, consumers and industry must work together.

As the demand for apparel and shoes has increased worldwide, the fashion industry has experienced substantial growth. In the last 15 years, clothing production has doubled, accounting for 60% of all textile production. 1 One particular trend driving this increase is the emergence of fast fashion. The newest trends in celebrity culture and bespoke fashion shows rapidly become available from affordable retailers. In recent years, a designer’s fashion calendar can consist of up to five collections per year, and in the mass-produced market, new stock is being produced every 2 weeks. As with many commodities today, mass production and consumption are often accompanied by mass wastage, and fashion is no different.

In fashion, trends rapidly change, and a drive to buy the latest style can leave many items with a short lifespan and consigned to the waste bin. Given that 73% of clothing ends up in landfills and less than 1% is recycled into new clothing, there are significant costs with regard to not only irreplaceable resources but also the economy via landfilling clothing. At present, it is estimated that £140 million worth of clothing is sent to landfills in the UK each year. 2 Although a significant proportion of recycled fibers are downgraded into insulation materials, industrial wipes, and stuffing, they still constitute only 12% of total discarded material.

The world is increasingly worried about the environmental and social costs of fashion, particularly items that have short lifespans. Mass-produced fashion is often manufactured where labor is cheap, but working conditions can be poor. Sweatshops can even be found in countries with stricter regulations. The transport of products from places of manufacture to points of sale contributes to the textile industry’s rising carbon footprint; 1.2 billion metric tons of CO 2 were reportedly emitted in 2015. 1 Textile dyeing and finishing are thought to contribute to 20% of the world’s water pollution, 3 and microfiber emission during washing amounts to half a million metric tons of plastic pollution annually. 4 Fashion’s water footprint is particularly problematic. Water is used throughout clothing production, including in the growth of crops such as cotton and in the weaving, manufacturing, washing, and dyeing processes. The production of denim apparel alone uses over 5,000 L of water 5 for a single pair of jeans. When you add this to consumer overuse of water, chemicals, and energy in the laundry process and the ultimate discard to landfills or incineration, the environmental impact becomes extremely high.

As demand for fast fashion continues to grow, so too does the industry’s environmental footprint. Negative impacts are starkly evidenced throughout the entire supply chain—from the growth of raw materials to the disposal of scarcely used garments. As awareness of the darker side of fashion grows, so too does demand for change—not just from regulatory bodies and global action groups but also from individual consumers. People want ethical garments. Sustainability and style. But achieving this is complicated.

Demand for Sustainable Fashion

Historically, sustainable brands were sought by a smaller consumer base and were typically part of the stereotype “hippy” style. But in recent years, sustainable fashion has become more mainstream among both designers and consumers, and the aesthetic appeal has evolved to become more desirable to a wider audience. As a result, the consumer need not only buy into the ethics of the brand but also purchase a desirable, contemporary garment.

But the difficulty for the fashion industry lies in addressing all sustainability and ethical issues while remaining economically sustainable and future facing. Sustainable and ethical brands must take into account fairer wages, better working conditions, more sustainably produced materials, and a construction quality that is built for longevity, all of which ultimately increase the cost of the final product. The consumer often wrestles with many different considerations when making a purchase; some of these conflict with each other and can lead the consumer to prioritize the monetary cost.

Many buyers who place sustainability over fashion but cannot afford the higher cost of sustainable garments will often forsake the latest styles and trends to buy second hand. However, fashion and second-hand clothing need not be mutually exclusive, as can be seen by the growing trend of acquiring luxury vintage pieces. Vintage clothing is in direct contrast to the whole idea of “fast fashion” and is sought after as a way to express individuality with the added value of saving something precious from landfills. Where vintage might have once been purchased at an exclusive auction, now many online sources trade in vintage pieces. Celebrities, fashion influencers, and designers have all bought into this vintage trend, making it a very desirable pre-owned, pre-loved purchase. 6 In effect, the consumer mindset is changing such that vintage clothing (as a timeless, more considered purchase) is more desirable than new products because of its uniqueness, a virtue that stands against the standardization of mass-market production.

Making Fashion Circular

In an ideal system, the life cycle of a garment would be a series of circles such that the garment would continually move to the next life—redesigned, reinvented, and never discarded—eliminating the concept of waste. Although vintage is growing in popularity, this is only one component of a circular fashion industry, and the reality is that the linear system of “take, make, dispose,” with all its ethical and environmental problems, continues to persist.

Achieving sustainability in the production of garments represents a huge and complex challenge. It is often quoted that “more than 80% of the environmental impact of a product is determined at the design stage,” 7 meaning that designers are now being looked upon to solve the problem. But the responsibility should not solely lie with the designer; it should involve all stakeholders along the supply chain. Designers develop the concept, but the fashion industry also involves pattern cutters and garment technologists, as well as the manufacturers: both producers of textiles and factories where garment construction takes place. And finally, the consumer should not only dispose, reuse, or upcycle garments appropriately but also wash and care for the garment in a way that both is sustainable and ensures longevity of the item. These stakeholders must all work together to achieve a more sustainable supply chain.

The challenge of sustainability is particularly pertinent to denim, which, as already mentioned, is one of the more problematic fashion items. Traditionally an expression of individualism and freedom, denim jeans are produced globally at 1.7 billion pairs per year 8 through mass-market channels and mid-tier and premium designer levels, and this is set to rise. In the face of growing demand, some denim specialists are looking for ways to make their products more sustainable.

Reuse and recycling can play a role here, and designers and brands such as Levi Strauss & Co. and Mud Jeans are taking responsibility for the future life of their garments. They are offering take-back services, mending services, and possibilities for recycling to new fibers at end of life. Many brands have likewise embraced vintage fashion. Levi’s “Authorized Vintage” line, which includes upcycled, pre-worn vintage pieces, not only exemplifies conscious consumption but also makes this vintage trend more sought after by the consumer because of its iconic status. All material is sourced from the company’s own archive, and all redesigns “are a chance to relive our treasured history.” 9

Mud Jeans in particular is working toward a circular business model by taking a more considered, “seasonless” approach to their collections by instead focusing on longevity and pieces that transcend seasons. In addition, they offer a lease service where jeans can be returned for a different style and a return service at end of life for recycling into new fiber. The different elements that make up a garment, such as the base fabrics (denim in the case of Mud jeans) and fastenings, are limited so the company can avoid overstocking and reduce deadstock. 10 This model of keeping base materials to a minimum has been adopted by brands that don’t specialize in denim, such as Adidas’s production of a recyclable trainer made from virgin thermoplastic polyurethane. 11 The challenge with garments, as with footwear, is that they are made up of many different materials that are difficult to separate and sort for recycling. These business models have a long way to go to be truly circular, but some companies are paving the way forward, and their transparency is highly valuable to other companies that wish to follow suit.

Once a product is purchased, its future is in the hands of the consumer, and not all are aware of the recycling options available to them or that how they care for their garments can have environmental impacts. Companies are helping to inform them. In 2009, Levi Strauss & Co. introduced “Care Tag for Our Planet,” which gives straightforward washing instructions to save water and energy and guidance on how to donate the garment when it is no longer needed. Mud Jeans follows a similar process by highlighting the need to break the habit of regular unnecessary washing and even suggesting “air washing.” 10

At the same time, designers are moving away from the traditional seasonal production cycle and into a more seasonless calendar. In light of the coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic, Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, has announced (May 2020) that the Italian brand will end the traditional five fashion shows per year and will “hold shows just twice a year instead to reduce waste.” 12 This is a brave decision because it goes against the practice whereby designers were pressured for decades to produce more collections per year, but the hope is that it will be quickly followed by more brands and designers.

Transparency

The discussion around sustainable fashion practices has led to a growing demand from consumers for transparency in the supply chain and life cycle of fashion garments. Consumers want to be informed. They are skeptical of media hype and “greenwashing” by fast-fashion companies wanting to make their brand appear responsible. They want to know the origin of the product and its environmental and social impact.

Some companies are responding by seeking a better understanding of the environmental impacts of their products. In 2015, denim specializer Levi Strauss & Co. extensively analyzed the garment life cycle to consider the environmental impact of a core set of products from its range. The areas highlighted for greatest water usage and negative environmental impact were textile production and consumer laundry care; the consumer phase alone consumed 37% of energy, 13 fiber and textile production accounted for 36% of energy usage, and the remaining 27% was spent on garment production, transport, logistics, and packaging. 14 This life-cycle analysis has led to innovation in waterless finishing processes that use 96% less water than traditional fabric finishing. 15 As noted previously, transparency here also inspires the wider industry to do likewise. Other companies have also introduced dyeing processes that need much less water, and much work is focused on improving textile recycling.

But this discussion does not just apply to production. Some high-street brands are using a “take back” scheme whereby customers are invited to bring back unwanted clothing either for a discount on future purchases or as a way to offload unwanted items of clothing. Not only might this encourage consumers to buy more without feeling guilty, but the ultimate destination of these returned garments can also be unclear. Without further transparency, a consumer cannot make fully informed decisions about the end-of-life fate of their garments.

Collective Responsibility

The buck should not be passed when it comes to sustainability; it is about collective responsibility. Professionals in the fashion industry often feel that it is in the hands of the consumer—they have the buying power, and their choices determine how the industry reacts. One train of thought is that the consumer needs to buy less and that the fashion retail industry can’t be asked to sell less. However, if a sustainable life cycle is to be achieved, stakeholders within the cycle must also be accountable, and there are growing demands for the fashion industry to be regulated.

With the global demand for new clothing, there is an urgent need to discover new materials and to find new markets for used clothing. At present, garments that last longer reduce production and processing impacts, and designers and brands can make efforts in the reuse and recycling of clothing. But environmental impact will remain high if large quantities of new clothing continue to be bought.

If we want a future sustainable fashion industry, both consumers and industry professionals must engage. Although greater transparency and sustainability are being pursued and certain brands are leading the way, the overconsumption of clothing is so established in society that it is difficult to say how this can be reversed or slowed. Moreover, millions of livelihoods depend on this constant cycle of fashion production. Methods in the recycling, upcycling, reuse, and remanufacture of apparel and textiles are short-term gains, and the real impact will come from creating new circular business models that account for the life cycle of a garment and design in the initial concept. If we want to maximize the value from each item of clothing, giving them second, third, and fourth lives is essential.

Acknowledgments

Thank you for support, in writing this Commentary, to Dr. Rina Arya, Professor of Visual Culture and Theory at the School of Art, Design, and Architecture of the University of Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK.

Declaration of Interests

The author is the co-founder of the International Society for Sustainable Fashion.

How digitization can make the fashion industry more sustainable 

Image:  Unsplash/Social Cut

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Stay up to date:, fourth industrial revolution.

• The fashion industry is rightfully vilified for being environmentally unsustainable.
• It takes over 4,000 litres of water to make a pair of jeans and most of that water is not recycled.
• The industry is also responsible for 10% of annual global carbon emissions.
• Technology and the rapid digitization of the supply chain can make fashion more sustainable.

Fashion has long been perceived as a major contributor to forest fires, rising sea levels, unfair wages, exploitation of labour and overflowing landfills. Unfortunately, these perceptions hold true. It takes over 4,000 litres of water to make a pair of jeans and most of that water is not recycled - indeed, one-fifth of all wastewater globally originates from fashion. The industry is also responsible for 10% of annual global carbon emissions , that’s more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.

The entire fashion industry has been vilified for years. More recently, observers have lamented the rise of fast fashion for its unethical manufacturing practices, and general lack of respect for the environment. Yet despite the backlash, most fast-fashion companies have continued to grow.

As humans, we feel the social pressure to conform to attitudes that are widely accepted by society, often socially claiming that we support these causes even if our actions are not aligned with our claims. While most people are aware that ethical initiatives are important for a better future, they don’t easily deviate from their default behaviour, especially when it offers perks like affordability, style, and convenience.

This is where technology and the rapid digitization of the supply chain can make all the difference.

Digitizing the supply chain

Aside from the moral argument of leaving the planet better for future generations, we now have a very powerful tool in the industry’s arsenal - profits. Yes, it does sound like an oxymoron, but thanks to digitization, companies can unlock profitability sooner and create a significantly more transparent supply chain.

Digitization removes opacity and middlemen, improves speed, and lowers inventory days. This frees up margins and makes favourable changes to the bottom line. Digitization also comes with other significant benefits like transparency, predictability, accountability, and traceability, all of which are critical to creating irreversible positive change in fashion supply chains.

Have you read?

This is the most sustainable way to use fashion - and it’s not renting clothes, how digital authentication could drive a resale revolution for fashion, secondhand clothing is in fashion - and it's helping the environment, these facts show how unsustainable the fashion industry is.

Here’s how we can finally put our thoughts to action and make it all worthwhile.

Once all factory floors are digitized, manufacturers, brands and consumers can verify exactly where a product was made, who made the product and how it was made. When sourcing flows are digitized, the same stakeholders can verify whether the fabric was truly ethically sourced and if the material is as sustainable as it is claimed to be.

If manufacturing processes are digitized and logged, carbon footprint becomes transparent for all to see. Finally, if quality controls, audits, and environmental, social and governance (ESG) assessments are digitized, their reports become verifiable and available for all brands and consumers.

We already know that the majority of Gen Z - the generation that was born between 1997-2012 - and millennial consumers would prefer to buy sustainable and ethically sourced products at the same price. Many would even pay more for it. But the important catalyst to increase the adoption of ESG-friendly practices is to get brands, manufacturers, and old-school businesses to adopt them. And perhaps the quickest way would be to use digitization-driven-profitability to catalyze, incentivize and encourage it.

Benefits of digitization

Digitization will certainly make the bottom line better for businesses and in return provide significantly greater levels of transparency and sustainability. Newly available funds could then be re-invested in setting up processes that are both environment and employee-friendly. This would mean, fairer wages, better practices, and more sustainable fabrics without costing businesses a cent.

These changes will ultimately help the business landscape become more ethical as corporates adopt an inside-out approach as opposed to following a remedial exercise. Leveraging technology in businesses will have a bigger impact on collective productivity gain due to transactional efficiencies and the innovation-multiplier effect that results from digitized processes.

The time is now to drive the transformation of global capitalism towards a more digital, more inclusive, and more ethical future.

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Economy featured

The case of sustainable clothing.

By Amerissa Giannouli , originally published by Research and Degrowth

April 20, 2023

How degrowth shapes the way I think about economic activities

Since I became familiar with degrowth I have been looking at things more critically. Especially after joining the  online master on Degrowth: Ecology, Economics and Policy , I find myself defending the need for transforming a green growth obsessed economy into a degrowth one.

Recently, I started working on a project about sustainable fashion focusing on clothing, good practices and youth entrepreneurship. I was sure that presumably sustainable fast fashion practices from big companies such as  Zara  and  H&M  would not be on my list of good practices. Although they might use more eco-friendly materials and advocate for these in marketing campaigns, there is still much more to do to address the issue of sustainability and social justice, including fair wages and working conditions throughout their supply chains. Besides, we have to question their identity as a  fast  fashion industry and the over consumption patterns they reproduce, not just their practices. The concept of “greening” the fashion industry bothers me. At the same time, it is difficult to think of clothing practices that are ecologically and socially responsible without being taken over by greenwashing marketing schemes and without disregarding the underlying power structures and socio-ecological problems.

As I was struggling with defining what sustainable clothing designs, businesses and economic activities could look like, I identified four key issues that I felt I had to reflect upon. To my surprise, these arguments can also easily be applied to other economic activities affected by green technological reformist solutions. Although I recognize that degrowth is not a certain theory but more of a pluralistic critical frame calling for socio-ecological transformations, here is what I managed to put together regarding the economic activities related to clothing inspired by degrowth.

Materials & energy use: Respecting the ecological limits

The first argument has to do with the decreasing use of materials and energy throughout the supply chain of a business when it comes to mainstream sustainable clothing techniques. I have seen clothing businesses, especially the big international ones, being proud of recycling materials and promoting a circular economy. However, there are two things that I have learned so far. The first one is that when I keep the idea that I can use less energy or less materials to produce the same things, I might tend to fall into the trap of producing and consuming more (Jevons paradox). The second one has to do with the Second Law of Thermodynamics which implies that although we do recycle materials, some quantity and quality of these materials and energy is unavoidably lost (Entropy Law). And of course, the process of recycling itself demands energy. Such an argument might not be that relevant for practices that support the actual reduction in consumption and production of excessive clothing such as clothes swapping, repairing, sharing, and other forms of voluntary simplicity. Indeed, there are also actions revolving around ecological materials, materials that can be easily disposed of and absorbed by the earth systems. Upcycling and similar innovative design techniques can be very creative and less harmful to the environment. So, a circular economy could contribute to less material and energy use but it probably cannot do magic.

Social & environmental justice: Decolonizing fashion

Yes, recycling, upcycling, repairing, reducing, could be part of the solution for fast fashion industry and ecological concerns. But, is it only a matter of materials and energy? What about social concerns or – to put it in a better way – what about socio-ecological concerns? What about traditional local practices that are lost due to technological efficiency? What about extraction of resources and exploitation of people and communities in different parts of the world, even the ones that are close to us and we are able to see and witness? What about the clothing materials that could be natural materials but maybe force monoculture production (e.g. cotton) in certain places? What about clothing businesses wastes? What happens with these wastes? If we want to promote changes, we need to think about questions of “how” and “where” something is produced and consumed. What kind of effects does this economic activity and process create to the communities and the ecologies of a place. Who is making what? What are the conditions of this production? What is the level of dependency to certain practices and nature? What are the underlying relations connected with clothing production that might not be visible to a consumer that could live far from where the actual production takes place? What about toxic and misleading marketing that reproduces stereotypes, injustices , and  cultural appropriation ?

When you go deeper into such issues, you can discover the ugly truth of producing textiles and garments, especially in the  fast  fashion industry, including gender violence, child labor, non-transparent, exploitative and unhealthy working conditions. Indicatively,  from January to May 2018, the Asia Floor Wage Alliance and Global Labor Justice researchers documented gender based violence reported by female garment workers in 5 countries; Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka . Moreover,  70% (or 112 million children)  of all child laborers are in agriculture while cotton production is an agricultural activity that is directly linked to clothing production. Switching into cotton fabrics without reducing the excessive production of clothing and without addressing major socio-ecological issues cannot be considered sustainable. In fact, “ UNICEF estimates that more than 100 million children are affected in the garment and footwear supply chain globally – as workers, children of working parents, and community members near farms and factories ”. And these are things that have been documented. However, the score on the level of transparency is still extremely low ( 24% ) for the 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers that hold a large part of fashion economic activity worldwide. All these might make us think again connecting financial economic successes to well-being.

Economic democracy & community empowerment: Towards autonomy

These questions also take us to how decision making on socio-economic organization in a community takes place. Does this socio-economic organization depend on market “signals” and the “invisible hand” that promises to connect demand and supply to a perfect equilibrium? I believe it is common knowledge that depending on market signals can be misleading, especially since socio-ecological effects, as described before, might not be captured in the costs of the production and the price of a fashion item (externalities). Then, what if some of these ecological and social externalities can be internalized? It could work to a certain extent but there are difficulties in capturing them and ethical considerations in the case of economic valuation techniques. For example, what about the people that cannot register their preferences and speak or even be recognized on how they are being affected by certain production and consumption practices as mentioned before? As I see it, these issues touch upon democratic participation and important decisions on how, what, where, why to produce, invest, distribute, consume and dispose might be better taken through participatory and democratic processes both for the communities that consumption and production takes place in, despite how far they might be from each other.

It might make more sense for a small community to decide locally on how and what kind of fashion products and businesses are “needed” or “should” exist inside their “territory”, and in a more globalized world this can be very difficult. But we do set numbers and specific objectives we wish to achieve even at national, European, and international levels. There are lots of economic instruments and policies out there. What I am trying to argue here is that instead of relying only on the markets and experts to set these numbers and objectives for such policies and instruments, we can also give voice to those those that are being affected by (the less visible ones) or affect the clothing supply chain, as well as take the ecological constraints more seriously. The participatory mechanisms are there. The democratic space is missing.

I cannot help but think about the big building in the place that I am living. What if we could imagine a different use of this building for the fashion sector? What if the community has been invited at some point to share thoughts, visions and needs? What if community considerations were taken into account when that space was “available” to take its new identity? We cannot be sure what the new identity of this building could have been. We cannot be sure if it would have been an ecologically responsible or socially just structure. But at least, it could have been a bit more participatory and democratic than before.

Resilience and community engagement: Strengthening the commons

Given the previous analysis, an ecologically responsible and socially just clothing activity could take the form of voluntary simplicity actions, solidarity initiatives, social innovations and social businesses with ecological and ethical considerations, as well as be deliberated through democratic processes. But I feel that there could be something more. Apart from making sure that individual clothing actions or clothing businesses are sustainable, in a broader sense of the term, there is the potential of collective actions to transform the perceptions we have about economic clothing activities in general.

If I may continue with the building example, I could try to imagine a new place where people of the community could have access to tools and materials in order to make or repair their own clothes and similar items. There could be educational programs for providing essential skills on how to do this, speak about social and environmental justice considerations in the fashion sector and even have courses on social entrepreneurship. People could also sell their creations or local creators could also join and sell their clothing products. Clothing swaps could also take place in the form of regular festivities, trying to engage with people that might not even have an interest in clothing or fashion. Maybe the initiative could generate surplus and allocate it to other activities which could be aligned with a community or an environmental cause.

That was my ideal story of the building connecting it with clothing considerations. I use the word “story” intentionally because our lives follow and respond to stories and narratives. Some of them are quite powerful in a sense that can block, reinforce or liberate our imagination. In the society I am living and interacting with, the underlying narrative is that people need to study more, work more, and do more in order to be considered successful. Those that do not follow this path might be considered ‘less of a citizen’, especially when they are not contributing directly to the economic growth machine. Activities that people might perform daily, often in their homes, do not matter as they do not count in GDP terms. However, these are activities and processes that socially and substantially reproduce life. Just like my grandma used to sew and create clothes in order to sell them, dress herself, dress her family and share some pieces with the community, sustainable fashion practices could welcome diversity that is not dependent mainly on market “signals” and technological innovations to become ecologically and socially responsible.

As I like to say: do not see these arguments as distinct from each other. They are interrelated, connected with and affected by each other. What I tried to demonstrate here is that a socio-ecological and economic transformation (or simply, a socio-ecological if we think about economy as part of the social sphere) is more complex than using eco-friendly materials or making individual life changes. It can be overwhelming to think about every aspect of our lives more holistically or systemically. However, trying to respond to such critical questions could open up possibilities and worlds of action that we might have never thought about, even if some of them are already there.

Amerissa Giannouli

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What is Sustainable Clothing? How to Make Your Capsule Wardrobe Eco Friendly.

In recent years, the term “sustainable” has been thrown around especially in the fashion industry. What does sustainability mean? What is sustainable fashion? What is ethical fashion? In this article we answer all of those questions and give you all the information you need to know about sustainability, sustainable fashion, and how to make your capsule wardrobe eco friendly.

We originally touched on this topic while ago in our article “What is sustainable fashion and why you need to know about it” . The sustainability movement is constantly changing as global events happen and both innovations and setbacks occur. So we have decided to provide an updated guide.

What does sustainability mean?

The most frequently quoted definition of sustainability comes from the United Nations’ Our Common Future , also known as the Brundtland Report , and is described as follows:

“Sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”

Sustainable practices and processes support environmental, ethical, and economic well-being. Resources in this world are finite. So it is important to use them wisely, reduce our carbon footprint, and conserve when you can.

The Sustainable fashion movement

One of the most talked about topics when it comes to sustainability is fashion. The sustainable fashion movement strives to create systems, supply chains, and products that are environmentally friendly and ethical.

Fashion exists as powerful art form and industry. Fashion possesses the capability to inspire, serves as a creative outlet where innovation flourishes, and brings joy into peoples lives. The 2.25 trillion dollar industry is a provides countless jobs around the world, bringing people together socially and culturally.

However, the industry is also responsible for contributing significantly to the climate crisis. The industry is also exhausting natural resources, the exploitation of workers, and unethical supply chains.

The sustainable fashion movement has grown exponentially in recent years to drive effective change throughout the fashion industry and world to tackle the climate emergency we are in before its too late by taking accountability, improving processes and working conditions, reducing waste, and seeking innovate solutions.

What is ethical fashion?

Ethical and sustainable fashion go hand in hand. Sustainable fashion cannot exists without accountability on the environmental side of things as well as the social. Condé Nast explains in their Sustainability Glossary that the fashion industry is “complicit in practices that perpetuate child labor, modern slavery, poverty and compromise animal welfare”.

The fashion industry is also responsible for rampant discrimination and exclusion on the basis of gender, race, sexual orientation, body type, and religious and political beliefs.

A more ethical fashion industry is one where regulations and processes are put into place to create a safer and more fair industry decreasing discrimination and exclusion. A world where clothing made by workers who are treated and compensated well in safe environments.

What is sustainable clothing?

Now that we have provided a background on sustainability and ethics and the role the play in the fashion industry, let’s dive into talking about the clothes themselves. To put into simple terms sustainable clothing are garments from their conception, creation, and distribution stages is done without harm to people or the planet .

How to make your capsule wardrobe more eco friendly

We know what you’re thinking: a closet filled completely filled with sustainable and ethical clothes seems like a nearly impossible and very expensive. However, achieving a more environmentally conscious wardrobe is easier than you may think, you just have to start.

Where do you start?

Where do you start? Here we have compiled a all the sustainable fashion resources you need including sustainable fashion tips, sustainable fashion brands, and more information on fabrics and fashion to help you make more sustainable buying decisions when buying and build an eco-friendly capsule wardrobe.

Sustainable fashion tips

Minimalism and sustainability.

By having or working towards a minimalist lifestyle with and building a capsule wardrobe, you are already off to a great start towards having a sustainable fashion sense and a sustainable life.

In our Sustainable Living Guide , we explain how one minimalism’s core values is making sustainable and choices such as zero waste, a simple diet, and making environmentally friendly buying decisions when it comes to garments, kitchen essentials , and any other purchases you need .

Ethical and sustainable fashion brands

When it comes to making new clothing purchases, choosing to invest in garments from ethical and sustainable fashion brands. While it might be more money than typical fast fashion brands, these clothes are better for the planet and are better quality lasting way more wear, which in the long run is better for your wallet.

Here is a list of ethical and sustainable fashion brands . Spanning from everyday fashion for women and men, workout clothes, undergarments, and outwear. These companies implement sustainable practices such as use sustainable materials and processes while while implementing ethical fashion practices as well.

• Eileen Fisher
• People Tree
• Epoque Evolution

Second hand

Another great sustainable fashion tip is to buy second hand and donate any unwanted garments (we all have those clothes sitting in the back of our closets we never wear). This tip saves you money, helps you be sustainable, and helps you help others be sustainable as well.

A good second hand clothing hack is to follow the one in, one out policy, where every-time you buy something new you donate an item. This helps to keep your capsule wardrobe refined and on the track for achieving minimalist style

Here is a list of second hand stores and apps to check out are;

• Buffalo Exchange
• Plato’s Closet
• Rent the Runway

Fast fashion vs. slow fashion

The truth fast fashion.

Majority of fashion brands out there are fast fashion brands. These companies have a negative environmental impact on the world.

The clothing made by these fast fashion companies are made with many toxic chemicals and contribute a lot of waste.

These clothes are also made unethically, by workers under unfair working conditions. The supply chains making these garments for these companies may not have the most safe or ethical production lines or processes.

Fast fashion however, is the most available to consumers in terms of affordability and price point and accessibility in terms of location to consumers, whether they an e-commerce website, and a presence social media.

All about slow fashion

Slow fashion features more sustainable production processes when designing and producing clothing items. Unlike fast fashion’s intensive supply chain model, slow fashion takes into account quality over quantity, a minimalist and sustainable value.

Production methods in slow sustainable fashion brands when making clothes involve less water, better treatment of workers, fair wages, and all around a more sustainable and ethical production process.

Many of the sustainable fashion brands mentioned earlier such as Eileen Fisher and Everlane are slow fashion brands as well. More sustainable slow fashion brands to look at include

• Alternative Apparel
• Stella McCartney

A brief background of fabrics

When putting together sustainable capsule wardrobe, the types of fabrics to purchase is another thing to look out for as well. There are so many innovations happening right now when it comes to sustainable fabrics and material production. The types fibers, raw materials, and recycled materials all being turned into sustainable fabrics.

What you need to know about cotton

Cotton is one the most common fabrics used to make textiles. Cotton is known for its softness, durability, and breathability. It is easy to take care of and easy to clean. Chances are not just your clothes but your sheets, towels, and other items are made from cotton.

However, cotton is not always made in the most sustainable way, using harmful chemicals, abundant water consumption, and processes damaging to the environment. Some regions where cotton is sourced do not reflect ethical fashion values as well, underpaying and putting workers through unethical work conditions.

What is organic cotton?

Try and search for clothes that use organic cotton. Organic cotton is made without chemicals and these manufacturers try to conserve as well using less water when putting producing the fabric.

It is also important to do research as to wear the cotton is coming from and how it is sourced. Is the region where the cotton is from practicing not only sustainable fashion practices but also ethical fashion practices?

Organic hemp

Hemp is one of the most sustainable fibers out there. Hemp grows with little water and does not need the help of chemicals and pesticides. Organic hemp is also biodegradable making hemp a great environmentally friendly option.

Recycled polyester

Recycled polyester is made by taking used materials such as plastic water bottles and spinning it into polyester fibers. Although still not the most sustainable fabric, recycled polyester does use significantly less energy consumption and does remove less waste which would otherwise end up in landfills.

Bamboo is another sustainable option. The bamboo grows quickly without the need for fertilizer and generates its own roots, not needing to be planted. In comparison to cotton, bamboo does not require as much water or pesticides, reducing harmful environmental affect.

Tencel also known as lyocell, is another very sustainable fabric. The tencel fabric is made from wood cellulose making it a regenerated fabric. The natural fibers of tencel are compostable and biodegradable.

The leather industry

It is no secret that the leather is not one of the most sustainable fabrics, in fact it is the complete opposite. Turning animal hide into leather takes a lot of chemicals. Bustle also reports that leather also uses 15,ooo gallons of freshwater, produced 2,200 pounds of solid waste for every ton of leather produced, while putting out methane and carbon emissions out into the atmosphere, and contributing to rainforest deforestation.

Vegan leather

Vegan leather is an artificial leather substitute that looks and performs the same way as regular leather. There have been many innovations in vegan leather materials that are sustainable such as pineapple leaves, mushrooms, cactus, cork, apple peels, recycled plastic and more.

Applying a minimalist approach to buying

If buying from sustainable fashion brands and slow fashion is out of your budget, second hand does not have what you are looking for and you are in need of new clothes, how you approach buying fast fashion can still help to have a more sustainable impact.

How you are buying and what you are buying can make all the difference. To reduce consumption, really think about if you need that item and if you can see yourself wearing it longterm.

Trendy vs. Timeless

Switching from the mindset of shopping trendy to shopping timeless is huge environmentally conscious buying decision to make. When buying an item think about if you are buying single party or into a trend that will be over next season? Do you see yourself wearing an item in a year from now? How about 5 years? A decade?

Universal and Trans-seasonal

Another thing to think about is how universal the clothing pieces are. Can the garment can be worn multiple ways? Throughout the different seasons? Can you see yourself wearing the item day to night? On the office and on the weekend?

The future of the fashion industry

Fashion has a massive environmental impact on the world. In recent years, many advocate for a more sustainable fashion industry that focuses on reducing consumption, our carbon footprint, and waste, while focusing on more green innovations when it comes to materials and production processes when producing clothing.

As a consumer, there is so much you can do to create a sustainable capsule wardrobe such as shopping from ethical and sustainable fashion companies, paying attention to what fabrics you select, buying quality garments that last and can be worn several ways throughout the year.

Fashion is an amazing form of self expression and developing a personal style that you love and feel comfortable in can make you feel more prepared and confident to take on the day. By implementing these tips on creating a sustainable capsule wardrobe you will save time, money, valuable mind space while contributing to a more sustainable world and looking and feeling good while doing it!

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Vogue’s ultimate guide to sustainable fashion

By Emily Chan

Sustainable fashion is a term that’s increasingly used (and overused, often with little to back it up) these days, as we all become ever more aware of the serious environmental impact of our clothes —with the industry responsible for a shocking four to 10 per cent of global greenhouse-gas emissions every year. But what does sustainable fashion actually mean?

In short, it’s an umbrella term for clothes that are created and consumed in a way that can be, quite literally, sustained, while protecting both the environment and those producing garments. That’s why cutting CO2 emissions, addressing overproduction, reducing pollution and waste, supporting biodiversity, and ensuring that garment workers are paid a fair wage and have safe working conditions, are all crucial to the sustainability matrix .

Considering the number of factors involved, there are still too few brands out there currently tackling all of these complex issues, and even those that are will admit that there’s always room for improvement. This means simply shopping for items labelled ‘sustainable’ is not enough; we need to completely rethink our purchasing habits and the way we consume clothes.

So, if you want to ensure your wardrobe is as sustainable as possible moving forward, here’s everything you need to know. 

1. Buy less and buy better

It may be a cliche, but the mantra “buy less and buy better” is key when you consider that a staggering 100bn garments are being produced globally every year. Before making a purchase, sustainability consultancy Eco-Age ’s chief brand officer Harriet Vocking advises that you ask yourself three all-important questions: “What are you buying and why? What do you really need? Will you wear it at least 30 times?”

2. Invest in sustainable fashion brands

Buying better can also mean supporting designers who are promoting sustainable practices, including the likes of Collina Strada , Chopova Lowena and Bode, who all use upcycled textiles in their designs. Narrowing your search for specific items can also help, whether that’s seeking out brands producing activewear more sustainably (such as Girlfriend Collective and Indigo Luna), swimwear (including Stay Wild Swim and Natasha Tonic) or denim (Outland Denim and Re/Done).

3. Shop secondhand and vintage

With secondhand and vintage now increasingly accessible thanks to sites such as The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective and Depop, consider buying pre-loved items when looking to add to your wardrobe. Not only will you extend the life of these garments and reduce the environmental impact of your wardrobe as a result, you can also find one-of-a-kind pieces that no one else will own. Look to the likes of Rihanna and Bella Hadid — both vintage aficionados — for inspiration here.

4. Try renting

Instead of buying a new dress for that wedding or BBQ this summer (Covid restrictions permitting, of course), it’s now easier than ever to rent something to wear instead. According to one study , an astonishing 50m garments are bought and worn just once every summer in the UK alone — a dirty habit we need to quickly ditch, given that the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is burned and landfilled every second .

5. Avoid greenwashing

As consumers become ever more aware of their environmental footprint, greenwashing—brands using vague, misleading or false claims to suggest it’s more eco-friendly than it actually is—is becoming increasingly prevalent. Look beyond buzzwords such as ‘sustainable’, ‘eco-friendly’, ‘conscious’ and ‘responsible’ to see if brands have detailed policies to back up their claims.

6. Know your materials

Understanding the impact of materials is crucial when it comes to making more sustainable purchases. A good rule of thumb is to avoid virgin synthetics such as polyester—which makes up 55 per cent of clothes globally—as these are derived from fossil fuels and take years to break down. Not all natural materials are made the same: organic cotton, for example, uses significantly less water than conventional cotton and doesn’t use harmful pesticides.

By Prabal Sharma

By Arman Khan

By Alice Newbold

Look for certifications from the Global Organic Textile Standard (for cotton and wool), Leather Working Group (for leather) and Forest Stewardship Council (for viscose) to ensure the materials used to make your clothes have a lower impact on our planet.

7. Ask who made your clothes

With the pandemic highlighting the extreme difficulties faced by garment workers around the world, it’s essential that the people who make our clothes are paid a fair wage and have safe working conditions. Seek out brands who openly disclose information about their factories and their policies around wages and working conditions.

8. Look for scientific targets

To find out if brands are serious about reducing their environmental impact, a good place to start is checking whether they have committed to scientific targets. Brands who have signed up to the Science Based Targets Initiative , for example—which includes Gucci-owner Kering and Burberry—must have goals for reducing CO2 emissions that are in line with the Paris Agreement .

9. Support brands who have a positive impact

Eco-minded brands such as Mara Hoffman and Sheep Inc are starting to consider how fashion can have a positive impact on the environment rather than just reducing its impact. Regenerative agriculture —farming practices such as no-tilling and growing cover crops — is a growing trend within fashion that aims to restore soil health and biodiversity.

10. Watch out for harmful chemicals

Hidden chemicals that are used to treat our clothes are a serious concern, polluting local waterways and posing a risk to garment workers. Keep an eye out for the Made in Green by OEKO-TEX and Bluesign certifications, which set out requirements for chemical usage during the manufacturing process.

11. Reduce your water footprint

Given that the production of textile uses an astonishing 93bn cubic metres of water annually — the equivalent to 37m Olympic swimming pools—we should all be more conscious about the water footprint of our clothes. As mentioned previously, organic cotton uses significantly less water than conventional cotton (91 per cent less, according to one study ), while the use of low-water dyes also reduces water consumption.

12. Be conscious about vegan fashion

While animal-derived materials such as leather and wool come with environmental and ethical concerns, vegan alternatives, which often contain synthetics, can also be harmful for our planet. Luckily, there are exciting innovations entering the market, such as Bolt Threads’ Mylo leather, made from mycelium—the roots of fungi—which has already been adopted by Stella McCartney .

13. Take care of your clothes

Extending the life of your clothes is crucial when it comes to lowering the environmental footprint of your garments , and ensuring they don’t end up clogging landfill sites after just one or two wears. Ensure your clothes last as long as possible by not overwashing them (which will also lower your CO2 emissions and water consumption), as well as repairing them instead of throwing them out.

14. Avoid microplastic pollution

As it’s difficult to avoid synthetics altogether (nylon and elastane are still required in activewear and underwear to get that all-important stretch), washing clothes can release thousands of microplastics into our waterways and oceans, causing harm to marine life that ingest the tiny particles. Luckily, there’s a simple solution: investing in a microplastics filter such as a Guppyfriend washing bag , in which you can put your synthetic garments or a Cora Ball that you put in with your laundry.

15. Ensure your clothes have a second life

When clearing out your closet, being conscious about how you dispose of your clothes will help stop them from ending up in landfill. Re-selling your clothes or organising a clothes swap is the best way to ensure they’ll have a second life, as well as donating to charities and organisations that are looking for used clothing. For worn-out pieces that can no longer be repaired for reused, look for recycling schemes specifically for those items, where possible.

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The global environmental injustice of fast fashion

• Rachel Bick 1   na1 ,
• Erika Halsey 1   na1 &
• Christine C. Ekenga   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0002-6209-4888 1  

Environmental Health volume  17 , Article number:  92 ( 2018 ) Cite this article

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Fast fashion, inexpensive and widely available of-the-moment garments, has changed the way people buy and dispose of clothing. By selling large quantities of clothing at cheap prices, fast fashion has emerged as a dominant business model, causing garment consumption to skyrocket. While this transition is sometimes heralded as the “democratization” of fashion in which the latest styles are available to all classes of consumers, the human and environmental health risks associated with inexpensive clothing are hidden throughout the lifecycle of each garment. From the growth of water-intensive cotton, to the release of untreated dyes into local water sources, to worker’s low wages and poor working conditions; the environmental and social costs involved in textile manufacturing are widespread.

In this paper, we posit that negative externalities at each step of the fast fashion supply chain have created a global environmental justice dilemma. While fast fashion offers consumers an opportunity to buy more clothes for less, those who work in or live near textile manufacturing facilities bear a disproportionate burden of environmental health hazards. Furthermore, increased consumption patterns have also created millions of tons of textile waste in landfills and unregulated settings. This is particularly applicable to low and middle-income countries (LMICs) as much of this waste ends up in second-hand clothing markets. These LMICs often lack the supports and resources necessary to develop and enforce environmental and occupational safeguards to protect human health. We discuss the role of industry, policymakers, consumers, and scientists in promoting sustainable production and ethical consumption in an equitable manner.

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Fast fashion is a term used to describe the readily available, inexpensively made fashion of today. The word “fast” describes how quickly retailers can move designs from the catwalk to stores, keeping pace with constant demand for more and different styles. With the rise of globalization and growth of a global economy, supply chains have become international, shifting the growth of fibers, the manufacturing of textiles, and the construction of garments to areas with cheaper labor. Increased consumption drives the production of inexpensive clothing, and prices are kept down by outsourcing production to low and middle-income countries (LMICs).

Globally, 80 billion pieces of new clothing are purchased each year, translating to $1.2 trillion annually for the global fashion industry. The majority of these products are assembled in China and Bangladesh while the United States consumes more clothing and textiles than any other nation in the world [ 1 ]. Approximately 85 % of the clothing Americans consume, nearly 3.8 billion pounds annually, is sent to landfills as solid waste, amounting to nearly 80 pounds per American per year [ 2 , 3 ].

The global health costs associated with the production of cheap clothing are substantial. While industrial disasters such as the 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire have led to improved occupational protections and work standards in the United States, the same cannot be said for LMICs. The hazardous working conditions that attracted regulatory attention in the United States and European Union have not been eliminated, but merely shifted overseas. The social costs associated with the global textile and garment industry are significant as well. Defined as “all direct and indirect losses sustained by third persons or the general public as a result of unrestrained economic activities,” the social costs involved in the production of fast fashion include damages to the environment, human health, and human rights at each step along the production chain [ 4 ].

Fast fashion as a global environmental justice issue

Environmental justice is defined by the United States Environmental Protection Agency, as the “fair treatment and meaningful involvement of all people regardless of race, color national origin, or income, with respect to the development, implementation, and enforcement of environmental laws, regulations and policies” [ 5 ]. In the United States, this concept has primarily been used in the scientific literature and in practice to describe the disproportionate placement of superfund sites (hazardous waste sites) in or near communities of color. However, environmental justice, as it has been defined, is not limited to the United States and need not be constrained by geopolitical boundaries. The textile and garment industries, for example, shift the environmental and occupational burdens associated with mass production and disposal from high income countries to the under-resourced (e.g. low income, low-wage workers, women) communities in LMICs. Extending the environmental justice framework to encompass the disproportionate impact experienced by those who produce and dispose of our clothing is essential to understanding the magnitude of global injustice perpetuated through the consumption of cheap clothing. In the context of Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 12 which calls for sustainable consumption and production as part of national and sectoral plans, sustainable business practices, consumer behavior, and the reduction and elimination of fast fashion should all be a target of global environmental justice advocates.

Environmental hazards during production

The first step in the global textile supply chain is textile production, the process by which both natural and synthetic fibers are made. Approximately 90 % of clothing sold in the United States is made with cotton or polyester, both associated with significant health impacts from the manufacturing and production processes [ 6 ]. Polyester, a synthetic textile, is derived from oil, while cotton requires large amounts of water and pesticides to grow. Textile dyeing results in additional hazards as untreated wastewater from dyes are often discharged into local water systems, releasing heavy metals and other toxicants that can adversely impact the health of animals in addition to nearby residents [ 6 ].

Occupational hazards during production

Garment assembly, the next step in the global textile supply chain, employs 40 million workers around the world [ 7 ]. LMICs produce 90% of the world’s clothing. Occupational and safety standards in these LMICs are often not enforced due to poor political infrastructure and organizational management [ 8 ]. The result is a myriad of occupational hazards, including respiratory hazards due to poor ventilation such as cotton dust and synthetic air particulates, and musculoskeletal hazards from repetitive motion tasks. The health hazards that prompted the creation of textile labor unions in the United States and the United Kingdom in the early 1900’s have now shifted to work settings in LMICs. In LMICs, reported health outcomes include debilitating and life-threatening conditions such as lung disease and cancer, damage to endocrine function, adverse reproductive and fetal outcomes, accidental injuries, overuse injuries and death [ 9 , 10 , 11 ]. Periodic reports of international disasters, such as the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse which killed 1134 Bangladeshi workers, are stark reminders of the health hazards faced by garment workers. These disasters, however, have not demonstrably changed safety standards for workers in LMICs [ 12 ].

Textile waste

While getting finished garments to consumers in the high-income countries is seen as the end of the line for the fashion industry, environmental injustices continue long after the garment is sold. The fast fashion model encourages consumers to view clothing as disposable. In fact, the average American throws away approximately 80 pounds of clothing and textiles annually, occupying nearly 5% of landfill space [ 3 ]. Clothing not sent directly to the landfill often ends up in the second-hand clothing trade. Approximately 500,000 tons of used clothing are exported abroad from the United States each year, the majority ending up in LMICs [ 8 ]. In 2015, the United States exported more than $700 million worth of used clothing [ 13 ]. Second-hand clothing not sold in the United States market is compressed into 1000-pound bales and exported overseas to be “graded” (sorted, categorized and re-baled) by low-wage workers in LMICs and sold in second-hand markets. Clothing not sold in markets becomes solid waste, clogging rivers, greenways, and parks, and creating the potential for additional environmental health hazards in LMICs lacking robust municipal waste systems.

Solutions, innovation, and social justice

Ensuring environmental justice at each stage in the global supply chain remains a challenge. Global environmental justice will be dependent upon innovations in textile development, corporate sustainability, trade policy, and consumer habits.

Sustainable fibers

The sustainability of a fiber refers to the practices and policies that reduce environmental pollution and minimize the exploitation of people or natural resources in meeting lifestyle needs. Across the board, natural cellulosic and protein fibers are thought to be better for the environment and for human health, but in some cases manufactured fibers are thought to be more sustainable. Fabrics such as Lyocell, made from the cellulose of bamboo, are made in a closed loop production cycle in which 99% of the chemicals used to develop fabric fibers are recycled. The use of sustainable fibers will be key in minimizing the environmental impact of textile production.

Corporate sustainability

Oversight and certification organizations such as Fair Trade America and the National Council of Textiles Organization offer evaluation and auditing tools for fair trade and production standards. While some companies do elect to get certified in one or more of these independent accrediting programs, others are engaged in the process of “greenwashing.” Capitalizing on the emotional appeal of eco-friendly and fair trade goods, companies market their products as “green” without adhering to any criteria [ 14 ]. To combat these practices, industry-wide adoption of internationally recognized certification criteria should be adopted to encourage eco-friendly practices that promote health and safety across the supply chain.

Trade policy

While fair trade companies can attempt to compete with fast fashion retailers, markets for fair trade and eco-friendly textile manufacturing remain small, and ethically and environmentally sound supply chains are difficult and expensive to audit. High income countries can promote occupational safety and environmental health through trade policy and regulations. Although occupational and environmental regulations are often only enforceable within a country’s borders, there are several ways in which policymakers can mitigate the global environmental health hazards associated with fast fashion. The United States, for example, could increase import taxes for garments and textiles or place caps on annual weight or quantities imported from LMICs. At the other end of the clothing lifecycle, some LMICs have begun to regulate the import of used clothing. The United Nations Council for African Renewal, for example, recently released a report citing that “Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda are raising taxes on secondhand clothes imports and at the same time offering incentives to local manufacturers” [ 15 ].

The role of the consumer

Trade policies and regulations will be the most effective solutions in bringing about large-scale change to the fast fashion industry. However, consumers in high income countries have a role to play in supporting companies and practices that minimize their negative impact on humans and the environment. While certifications attempt to raise industry standards, consumers must be aware of greenwashing and be critical in assessing which companies actually ensure a high level of standards versus those that make broad, sweeping claims about their social and sustainable practices [ 14 ]. The fast fashion model thrives on the idea of more for less, but the age-old adage “less in more” must be adopted by consumers if environmental justice issues in the fashion industry are to be addressed. The United Nation’s SDG 12, “Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns,” seeks to redress the injustices caused by unfettered materialism. Consumers in high income countries can do their part to promote global environmental justice by buying high-quality clothing that lasts longer, shopping at second-hand stores, repairing clothing they already own, and purchasing from retailers with transparent supply chains.

Conclusions

In the two decades since the fast fashion business model became the norm for big name fashion brands, increased demand for large amounts of inexpensive clothing has resulted in environmental and social degradation along each step of the supply chain. The environmental and human health consequences of fast fashion have largely been missing from the scientific literature, research, and discussions surrounding environmental justice. The breadth and depth of social and environmental abuses in fast fashion warrants its classification as an issue of global environmental justice.

Environmental health scientists play a key role in supporting evidence-based public health. Similar to historical cases of environmental injustice in the United States, the unequal distribution of environmental exposures disproportionally impact communities in LMICs. There is an emerging need for research that examines the adverse health outcomes associated with fast fashion at each stage of the supply chain and post-consumer process, particularly in LMICs. Advancing work in this area will inform the translation of research findings to public health policies and practices that lead to sustainable production and ethical consumption.

Abbreviations

Low and middle-income countries

Sustainable Development Goal

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Rachel Bick and Erika Halsey contributed equally to this work.

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Essay on Sustainable Fashion

Students are often asked to write an essay on Sustainable Fashion in their schools and colleges. And if you’re also looking for the same, we have created 100-word, 250-word, and 500-word essays on the topic.

Let’s take a look…

100 Words Essay on Sustainable Fashion

What is sustainable fashion.

Sustainable fashion means making clothes in a way that is good for the environment and people. It’s about using materials that don’t harm the earth and making sure workers are treated fairly. This kind of fashion tries to reduce waste and pollution from making and throwing away clothes.

Why is it Important?

It’s important because the fashion industry creates a lot of pollution and waste. By choosing sustainable fashion, we help protect our planet. It also ensures that people making our clothes work in safe conditions and get fair pay.

How to Support Sustainable Fashion

You can support sustainable fashion by buying less and choosing better quality items that last longer. Look for brands that care about the environment and their workers. Also, recycling and donating old clothes instead of throwing them away helps reduce waste.

250 Words Essay on Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion is about making clothes in a way that is good for the environment and people. It means using materials that do not harm the earth and making sure the people who make the clothes are treated fairly and work in safe conditions.

Fashion is a big industry that can harm our planet. It uses a lot of water, creates waste, and sometimes uses chemicals that are bad for the earth. Sustainable fashion tries to fix these problems by being more careful about how clothes are made and what they are made of.

Materials Matter

Sustainable fashion uses materials that are better for the environment. This includes organic cotton, which doesn’t use harmful pesticides, and recycled materials, which help reduce waste. These materials are kinder to our planet and help keep it healthy.

Helping People Too

Sustainable fashion also looks after the people making the clothes. It makes sure they have safe places to work and are paid fairly. This is important because everyone deserves to be treated well at their job.

How You Can Help

You can help by choosing to buy clothes from companies that care about sustainable fashion. Look for clothes made from eco-friendly materials and companies that treat their workers well. By making these choices, you can help our planet and the people on it.

500 Words Essay on Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion is about making clothes in a way that is kind to our planet and the people who live on it. It means creating clothing that uses less water, less energy, and fewer resources. It also means treating the people who make our clothes fairly, giving them good working conditions and fair pay. Sustainable fashion is important because the way we make and use clothes right now is causing a lot of harm to our world.

Why is Sustainable Fashion Important?

The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in the world. It uses a lot of water and chemicals to make clothes, which can hurt our rivers, lakes, and oceans. The industry also produces a lot of waste. When we throw away clothes that we don’t want anymore, they often end up in landfills where they can take hundreds of years to break down. By choosing sustainable fashion, we can help reduce pollution and waste.

How to Choose Sustainable Fashion

Choosing sustainable fashion can be as simple as looking for clothes made from natural or recycled materials. Materials like organic cotton, bamboo, and recycled polyester are better for the environment because they use less water and chemicals to produce. You can also look for brands that are committed to fair labor practices, meaning they ensure good working conditions and fair wages for their workers.

Another way to be more sustainable with fashion is to buy less but choose better quality items that will last longer. This means you won’t need to replace your clothes as often, which reduces waste.

Reusing and Recycling Clothes

One of the easiest ways to practice sustainable fashion is by reusing and recycling clothes. Instead of throwing away clothes you no longer want, you can donate them to someone in need or sell them to someone else who can use them. This gives the clothes a new life and reduces waste. You can also look for second-hand clothes when you need something new to wear. Buying second-hand is a great way to get unique items and save resources.

The Future of Sustainable Fashion

The future of sustainable fashion looks promising. More and more people are becoming aware of the problems with the current fashion industry and are looking for ways to make a change. Designers and brands are also starting to focus on creating more sustainable clothing. This includes using new technologies to make fabrics that are better for the environment and finding new ways to reduce waste.

In conclusion, sustainable fashion is about making choices that are better for our planet and for the people who live on it. By choosing to buy sustainable clothing, reusing and recycling clothes, and supporting fair labor practices, we can all make a difference. The future of fashion is sustainable, and by making these choices, we can help create a better world for everyone.

That’s it! I hope the essay helped you.

If you’re looking for more, here are essays on other interesting topics:

• Essay on Sustainable Lifestyle
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The Myth of Sustainable Fashion

• Kenneth P. Pucker

Despite high-profile attempts at innovation, the industry has failed to reduce its environmental impact so far.

Few industries tout their sustainability credentials more forcefully than the fashion industry. But the sad truth is that despite high-profile attempts at innovation, it’s failed to reduce its planetary impact in the past 25 years.  Most items are still produced using non-biodegradable petroleum-based synthetics and end up in a landfill. So what can be done? New ESG strategies such as the use of bio-based materials, recycling, and “rent-the-runway” concepts have failed. Instead, we must stop thinking about sustainability as existing on a spectrum. Less unstainable is not sustainable. And governments need to step in to force companies to pay for their negative impact on the planet. The idea of “win-win” and market-based solutions has failed even in one of the most “progressive” industries.

Few industries tout their sustainability credentials more forcefully than the fashion industry. Products ranging from  swimsuits  to  wedding dresses  are marketed as carbon positive, organic, or vegan while  yoga mats made from mushrooms  and  sneakers from sugar cane  dot retail shelves. New business models including recycling, resale, rental, reuse, and repair are sold as environmental life savers.

• Kenneth P. Pucker is a professor of practice at The Fletcher School at Tufts University and was formerly the chief operating officer of Timberland. kpucker31

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Fast Fashion and Sustainability Essay

Fast fashion and its environmental footprint, shifts in public opinion and growing role of csr, governmental effort and its relevance, interventions needed, barriers to implementation and steps to undertake.

Finding a balance between development and sustainability has been an objective many people find difficult to attain. The use of resources has been intensifying annually due to the increasing population and people’s growing demand. The fashion industry is now seen as one of the most vivid illustrations of unreasonable use of resources (Bick, Halsey and Ekenga, 2018). Fast fashion can be referred to as “a business model based on offering consumers frequent novelty in the form of low-priced, trend-led products” (Niinimäki et al., 2020, p. 189). On the one hand, this model has enabled millions of people to access more clothes that are more affordable. On the other hand, adverse environmental and social impact has been substantial as well. Due to the shift towards more sustainable business practices, the fast fashion industry is also undergoing certain changes. This paper includes a brief analysis of the ways to address consumers’ fashion-related needs and reduce the negative environmental impact of the fast industry.

To some people, the fashion industry may seem rather irrelevant compared to such traditional giants as the oil industry, but the former has a considerable share in the global market. It has been estimated that the value of the world’s fashion industry is approximately 3,000 billion dollars, which is over 2% of the global Gross Domestic Product (GDP) (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020). The consumption of textile goods has almost doubled during the past two decades and reached 13kg per individual or 100 million tons annually (see Figure 1).

Such significant growth comes at a price that is mainly associated with a tremendous effect on the environment (see Figure 2). For instance, Shirvanimoghaddam et al. (2020) stress that only 15% of the wastes are recycled. It is noteworthy that developing countries are more vulnerable since a considerable portion of the used textile is a part of the second-hand clothing trade (Bick, Halsey and Ekenga, 2018). For example, over 500,000 tons of used textile goods are exported from the USA (Bick, Halsey and Ekenga, 2018).

Recycling mainly occurs in western countries, which makes the environmental burden of developing countries more pronounced (see Figure 2). In addition to the contamination of vast territories used as landfills, fast fashion wastes often penetrate into diverse ecosystems due to inadequate waste management (Mehta, 2019). Textiles produced of low-quality components contaminate the ocean and suburban areas. Since a considerable part of production facilities is located in developing countries, these areas are affected most. The governments of these countries tend to place a lower value on ecological problems, which leads to undesirable effects.

In addition to the environmental impact, the fast fashion industry is closely linked to the consumerism culture that is still prevalent in the world (Niinimäki et al., 2020). According to the social practice theory that is a social theory focusing on the human society and its peculiarities, things are seen as an indispensable part of human existence (Reckwitz, 2002). Things have become something more than objects used to satisfy individuals’ needs. People see things as “objects of the knowing subject” and “constitutive elements of forms of behaviour” (Reckwitz, 2002, p. 253). In simple terms, things have an influence on people’s behavior, and fast fashion can illustrate this process. Many people find it critical to wear fashionable things to be a part of a group (sub-culture) or express themselves (Barnes and Lea-Greenwood, 2018). Others want to buy new things for the sake of acquiring a new thing or in the course of socializing (Afaneh, 2020). Fast fashion offers numerous ways to satisfy people’s needs and make them feel members of a larger community.

E-commerce has contributed to the growth of unsustainable behaviors as purchasing has become even easier and more affordable (Niinimäki et al., 2020). People are enticed to buy more as they can save more (and buy more) without even leaving their homes. The COVID-19 pandemics contributed to the increase in online sales. Niinimäki et al. (2020) emphasize that this business model is even less environmentally sustainable due to the peculiarities of logistics. Container boat transportation typical of traditional retailing is replaced by air cargo in e-commerce, so the environmental footprint is more significant.

Although the human society is still characterized by the focus on consumerism, people are becoming more responsible. Consumers start being more environmentally conscious and try to reduce their negative influence on the environment (Javed et al., 2020). The rise of the corporate social responsibility approach can be seen as companies’ response to this trend. Manufacturers try to develop sustainable ways to produce goods, reduce natural resources consumption, and introduce recycling incentives. C&A is one of the leaders in adopting sustainable practices in the industry (see Figure 3). The third of the garments the company sells can be referred to as eco-friendly goods ( Sustainable fashion , 2020). The retailer claims that they focus on the production of garments of recyclable cotton and try to adopt a holistic approach to the production process in order to ensure the reduction of CO2 emissions and proper waste management (C&A, n.d.).

H&M initiated several projects aimed at reducing its wastes. In addition to second-hand sales and the promotion of more durable fashion, H&M developed the concept of recyclable jeans (Mehta, 2019). The company utilizes natural components to produce jeans and accessories that are easily recyclable. Another fast fashion leader in the global market, GAP, has also expressed its intention to move to a circular industry (Mehta, 2019). The two large textile producers show their commitment to sustainable practices, which resonates with the overall attitudes to the matter in different countries.

It is necessary to add that, along with companies’ willingness to build positive images and adopt CSR strategies, regulations imposed by national governments and international institutions encourage businesses to employ sustainable approaches. These efforts are instrumental in setting the minimum level of CSR activities necessary to improve environmental sustainability and offering directions to move for further development (Mehta, 2019). The primary areas covered within the scope of these efforts include CO2 emissions reduction, recycling, waste management, and resource consumption.

Some of these initiatives include the provision of financial support and tax reduction to high-achievers in dropping the levels of CO2 emissions (Niinimäki et al., 2020). The EU government is introducing diverse regulations concerning waste management, forcing and encouraging companies to recycle instead of bringing their wastes to landfills (Wang et al., 2020). It is important to note that European countries display different approaches and commitment to environmental sustainability. Such countries as Germany, Norway, and Finland have progressed considerably, while less wealthy states lag behind. Trade policies established by the USA are aimed at ensuring global equity (Bick, Halsey and Ekenga, 2018). Such regulations impose restrictions related to importing and exporting used textiles. Companies are encouraged or directly forced to donate to the projects aimed at the development of recyclable industry and similar initiatives (Mehta, 2019).

Further steps in the areas mentioned above are necessary for the minimization of the negative effect of the fast fashion industry. The standards existing in the western world are quite appropriate and under proper review each year (Bick, Halsey and Ekenga, 2018; Mehta, 2019; Wang et al., 2020). In addition to various strict regulations regarding CO2 emissions and waste management, the UK government, for instance, has the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan for fast-fashion companies to follow (Abdulla, 2019). This voluntary plan of action encourages companies to join in and suggest their strategies to comply with the existing and upcoming standards. Numerous retailers and fashion industry leaders tend to join the initiative, which positively affects their overall image and gives an opportunity to contribute to the development of sustainable practices for the entire industry.

The UAE can become a major advocate of sustainable practices for the development of the region. The country posed a number of KPIs to be reached by 2021 regarding waste management, emission reduction, and other environmental aspects. Some of the 2021 environmental targets include the improvement of the portion of treated waste of total waste generated ( Environment and government agenda , 2020). It also aims at reducing the consumption of non-sustainable energy, as well as decreasing CO2 emissions. However, there are no specific restrictions on the fashion industry. Moreover, the policies tend to be confined to the exact practices of companies without paying sufficient attention to the activities of their partners, which has become a norm in the EU countries.

The introduction of new restrictions rather problematic as businesses oppose such laws and try to shape the politicians’ agenda in different ways. Many laws and norms are regarded as unnecessary and harmful restrictions imposed by irresponsible politicians trying to win votes (Abdullah, 2019). Educating the public about potential hazards and possible ways to mitigate the negative consequences can be instrumental in achieving the consensus in the society (Afaneh, 2020).

The provision of direct financial support can also become an effective strategy governments can utilize to make the fast fashion industry more circular. Small and medium-sized companies are facing significant issues related to the COVID-19 pandemics (Brydges and Hanlon, 2020). The situation related to the pandemics can serve as the basis for the promotional campaigns popularizing sustainability. It is possible to emphasize that humans are vulnerable to numerous global challenges, while sustainable practices are key to the successful development of the society.

Large retailers and manufacturers tend to set new standards and norms accepted by consumers. For example, H&M, in collaboration with other fast fashion companies, has launched initiatives aimed at the reduction of their environmental impact (Javed et al., 2020; Mehta, 2019). Such incentives should obtain governmental support that can be manifested in financial or educational aspects. American officials can also promote such initiatives through international platforms such as the World Trade Organization or other institutions.

Although the benefits of such efforts can hardly be overestimated, governments can be reluctant to be involved in such incentives. As mentioned above, financial constraints countries have to face make environmental issues seem less relevant and urgent. Activists should ensure that the most urgent ecological topics are discussed in the society, which will make countries address them. Consumers can also become less concentrated on environmental issues due to their financial issues (Afaneh, 2020).

Activists and governments should pay much attention to raising people’s awareness of the economic burden of less sustainable practices in the long run. Social media have been utilized effectively to discuss numerous issues and encourage people to take a particular action. Such incentives as H&M’s online second-hand platform and such products as recyclable jeans should receive high publicity facilitated by the governmental support (Mehta, 2019). Being sustainable should be synonymous with being competitive, and governments can help businesses see the exact paths to achieve competitive advantages based on environmental aspects.

On balance, societies are becoming increasingly aware of environmental issues and willing to adhere to sustainable practices. Durability and recyclability are seen as more relevant in the modern societies. Governments try to develop regulations and standards, facilitating the changes and shifts towards environmentally friendly behaviors. Although these trends are more pronounced in developed countries, developing states are also integrated into the process of this transformation. However, numerous barriers to the implementation of projects aimed at establishing sustainable norms are apparent. Global financial issues can be regarded as major reasons for the slowdown in changes. Nevertheless, governments, companies, activists, and the public should remain in close contact in their effort to create a more sustainable fast fashion industry. Numerous incentives launched in different countries and regions show that governments can contribute to a gradual shift towards sustainable industries.

Abdullah, H. (2019) ‘UK government outlines steps to fix fast fashion’, Just-Style . Web.

Afaneh, S. (2020) ‘I can’t quit fast fashion as a student, but I can change how I shop’ , Lifestyle . Web.

Barnes, L. and Lea-Greenwood, G. (2018) ‘Pre-loved? Analysing the Dubai luxe resale market’, in Ryding, D., Henninger, C. E. and Cano, M. B. (eds.) Vintage luxury fashion: exploring the rise of the secondhand clothing trade . London: England, pp. 63–78.

Bick, R., Halsey, E. and Ekenga, C. (2018) ‘The global environmental injustice of fast fashion’, Environmental Health , 17(1), pp. 92-95.

Brydges, T. and Hanlon, M. (2020) ‘Garment worker rights and the fashion industry’s response to COVID-19’, Dialogues in Human Geography , 10(2), pp. 195-198.

C&A (n.d.) ‘Our vision: making sustainable fashion the new normal’ . Web.

Environment and government agenda (2020). Web.

Javed, T., Yang, J., Gul Gilal, W. and Gul Gilal, N. (2020) ‘The sustainability claims’ impact on the consumer’s green perception and behavioral intention: a case study of H&M’, Advances in Management & Applied Economics , 10(2), pp. 1-22.

Mehta, A. (2019) ‘ Beyond recycling: putting the brakes on fast fashion ’ , Reuters Events . Web.

Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. and Gwilt, A. (2020) ‘The environmental price of fast fashion’, Nature Reviews Earth & Environment , 1(4), pp. 189-200.

Reckwitz, A. (2002) ‘Toward a theory of social practices: A development in culturalist theorizing’, European Journal of Social Theory , 5(2), pp. 243-263.

Remy, N., Speelman, E. and Swartz, S. (2016) ‘ Style that’s sustainable: a new fast-fashion formula ’ , McKinsey & Company . Web.

Shirvanimoghaddam, K., Motamed, B., Ramakrishna, S. and Naebe, M. (2020) ‘Death by waste: fashion and textile circular economy case’, Science of the Total Environment , 718, pp. 1-10.

Sustainable fashion: how are the leaders in fast fashion doing? (2020). Web.

Wang, D., Tang, Y. T., Long, G., Higgitt, D., He, J. and Robinson, D. (2020) ‘Future improvements on performance of an EU landfill directive driven municipal solid waste management for a city in England’, Waste Management , 102, pp. 452-463.

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Bibliography

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The Best Organic Baby Clothes Are Eco-Friendly And Adorable

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Few things are as delicate as your newborn’s skin, so it’s understandable to want to dress them in the best organic baby clothes. Health experts recommend natural and breathable fabric for babies, and an organic certification ensures this—in addition to eco-friendly fiber production. Baby clothes also need to be strong enough to hold up to frequent washing, and stretchy enough to put on little ones’ wiggly arms and legs relatively easily.

The best organic baby clothes are gentle on skin and the environment.

When shopping for organic clothing for your baby, look for the green Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) seal. This robust third-party standard is the most common organic certification found on clothes and home goods in the U.S., although you may also find cotton that’s USDA Organic. You’ll also want to look for features that are common to all of the best baby clothes , like easy to close snaps and zippers, durable construction and adorable style. We deeply researched the market and carefully reviewed materials to find the best organic baby clothes.

• Best Organic Baby Clothes Overall: Hanna Andersson , Monica + Andy
• Best Affordable Organic Baby Clothes: Primary , Burt’s Bees
• Best Organic Baby Clothes Made In The USA: Winter Water Factory
• Best Cute Organic Baby Clothes: Finn + Emma
• Best Organic Newborn Baby Clothes: Honest Baby
• Best Organic Onesies: Norani , Milkbarn Kids

Best Organic Baby Clothes Overall

Hanna andersson: beautiful clothes that make lasting hand-me-downs.

Hanna Andersson

Hanna Andersson Baby Long Sleeve Romper

Founded in 1983, Hanna Andersson has always used natural cotton and later expanded to GOTS certified fibers. A Forbes Vetted editor favorite, this brand is known for bright prints, matching family sets and high quality. We love that the garments are designed to be handed down from child to child, with a name label inside that has space to write in three names. I’ve purchased new Hanna Andersson pajamas and onesies for my son, and I have secondhand clothes from the brand that have held up equally well.

Monica + Andy: Soft, Stretchy Sets In Matching Prints

Monica + andy long sleeve bodysuit (3 pack).

Monica + Andy’s GOTS-certified organic cotton baby clothes add 5% spandex to make them easy to get on and off wiggly babes. This means the garments are softer, but also have some non-organic fibers, so there’s a small trade-off. You can find rompers, onesies, baby blankets and hats in the same adorable print, which makes them an ideal baby shower gift or great for special occasions like coming home from the hospital. (Its knot top baby hats seem to stay on better than most.) Monica + Andy also has a collaboration with Disney so you can get high-quality clothes featuring your favorite character.

Best Affordable Organic Baby Clothes

Primary: a rainbow of basics under $25, primary the organic baby pant.

Primary makes baby basics in bright solid colors (hence the name) and simple patterns, all in 100% GOTS-certified cotton. The other benefit of this approach? Everything you pull out of the drawer effortlessly looks cute together. We love that everything is pre-washed so it won’t shrink and—even better for sensitive-skinned babes—is tagless. Few items cost more than $30.

Burt’s Bees: Great Value And Adorable Prints

Burt's bees one-piece zip front romper.

If you want organic baby clothes with cute prints, Burt’s Bees is an excellent value. In his first 6 months of life, my son wore Burt’s Bees footed onesies nearly constantly and they are still in great condition after countless rounds through the washing machine and dryer. Made with 100% GOTS certified cotton, these baby clothes have user-friendly details like diagonal zippers and fold-over mitts on the sleeves of the smallest sizes to prevent your newborn from scratching themselves.

Best Organic Baby Clothes Made In The USA

Winter water works: unique prints made in the usa.

Winter Water Factory

Winter Water Factory Long Sleeve Romper

Erica Joy Dunn, owner of the Cape Cod children’s boutique Littlenecks , recommends Winter Water Factory for colorful, artistic prints you won’t see everywhere. The Brooklyn-based children’s clothing company uses only 100% certified organic cotton and manufactures everything in the USA. “The prints are so beautiful,” says Dunn. “The blankets are my go-to new babe gifts.”

Best Cute Organic Baby Clothes

Emma + finn: fun graphics, on-trend colors.

Finn + Emma

Finn + Emma Graphic Bodysuit

Finn + Emma has a wide selection of cute printed onesies (including something for most holidays), all made from 100% certified organic cotton. The brand also has plenty of solid-colored basics to help you complete the look, and many of the designs are gender neutral, which can make it easier to pass items on to the next child when one baby outgrows them. The brand also uses eco-friendly dyes and ethical labor practices.

Best Organic Newborn Baby Clothes

Honest baby clothing: gots cotton for even the smallest babies, honest baby organic cotton short sleeve bodysuits.

Honest Baby makes great organic clothing for all babies, but the brand is a favorite for newborns because it has a 0-3 month size, a newborn size and a premie size, which the brand also refers to as “earlies.” Everything is made with 100% GOTS certified organic cotton and many styles come in practical multi-packs like this set of five short sleeve body suits.

Best Organic Onesies

Norani: smart design that makes diaper changes smoother.

Norani Baby

Norani Organic Footie

Available in colorful prints like bright balloons and cherry blossoms, Norani’s onesies have a two-way zipper. That means you can take the garment off from the top down or the bottom up—whichever is better for your wiggly baby or the location of their current mess. The fabric is 95% organic cotton and 5% spandex, so the fabric is soft and stretchy, but there is a small amount of non-organic fiber in the weave.

Milkbarn Kids: Cotton And Bamboo Favorites

Milkbarn Kids

Milkbarn Kids Bamboo Zipper Pajama

Milkbarn Kids makes super-soft onesies from a blend of rayon from bamboo and organic, GOTS-certified cotton. Its prints skew more watercolor than graphic; we especially love its assortment of African animals like elephants, lions and giraffes. Milkbarn’s onesies have a two-way zipper, and there are a ruffled and footed styles as well.

The 9 Best Shampoos For Frizzy Hair, According To Experts

Amika’s thermal brush is my secret weapon for at-home blowouts—and it’s currently on sale, why trust forbes vetted.

At Forbes Vetted, we take baby and parenting gear—from maternity bras to baby bibs —seriously. The writers and editors who cover kids and baby gear are parents, and have spent countless hours testing and researching parenting products. We prioritize recommending safe products, and we closely follow the latest child health and safety research. We also consult health care professionals industry experts to better inform our recommendations.

For this article, we interviewed sustainable fashion expert Alden Wicker , the author of To Dye For , and Erica Joy Dunn, owner of the Cape Cod children’s boutique Littlenecks .

Margaret Badore, the author of this article, has been reporting on sustainability and health topics for over 15 years, including extensive experience covering the textile industry and consumer goods certifications. Coauthor Elyse Moody covers parenting gear. Both authors are mom themselves.

How We Chose The Best Organic Baby Clothes

I’ve been reporting on the environmental impacts of the apparel industry for over a decade, so I knew from the outset that we wanted all our recommendations to have third-party organic certification. When it comes to textiles sold in the U.S., that almost always means certification from by Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) , although a few producers who make clothing domestically use cotton that’s certified USDA Organic.

As moms ourselves, we’ve purchased and used a fair share of organic baby clothes—some of which has been worthy of recommending, as well as some that is not. My coauthor also interviewed apparel industry insiders to help us learn about other factors to take into account, and additional brands we might have overlooked.

From there, I narrowed down the list by evaluating the value and design offerings of brand. I aimed to include clothing that’s easy for parents to use, as well as a range of styles to suit different tastes.

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