essay on ocean waves

Know your Ocean: Did you know?

What causes ocean waves.

A trip to the ocean means sun, wind, and waves. These waves crash on the beach, waking you in the morning and lulling you to sleep at night. Surfers ride them. Children play in them. Swimmers dive beneath them. What causes waves? Wind and, ultimately, the sun.

Sunlight heats our planet unevenly. It’s most intense near the equator and decreases as we get closer to the poles. That uneven heat causes wind. Hot air rises, drawing in air from cooler areas to fill the space. It’s this difference in temperature that causes wind.

Wind is a form of energy. When it blows across water, it transfers some of that energy to the water. This energy causes particles of surface water to move. But they don’t simply travel in the direction the wind is blowing. Instead, they move in circles. A particle of water on the surface moves up. As it reaches the highest point (the crest), it slows. Then gravity takes over, pulling it back down again. As it goes it circles back to its starting position or a spot very close to it.

If you have ever stood in a wave, you know this feeling. Water pushes you up as the wave crests. You then drop into the trough (low point between waves). You are also pushed forward and back. If you were small enough to drift in the water, your body would complete a circle. Next time you see a buoy out on the water, watch it bob up and down. You can follow its circular path.

When wind creates waves in deep water, we get large swells. Swells don’t look like the waves we see on the beach. Instead, they look like rolling hills. It’s only when those swells reach shallow areas that we see the distinctive form of a wave.

As the circular flow of water runs into the seafloor, it catches on the bottom and slows down. This causes the water behind it to pile up. Eventually it gets too tall. The wave crests, curling over the top and tumbling over itself. It crashes onto shore and slides up the beach before retreating.

Not all waves crest on shore the way wind-caused waves do. Big storms can cause storm surges. Underwater earthquakes or mudslides can cause long waves called tsunamis. Storm surges and tsunamis power onto land like a wall of water, wiping out anything in their way.

LEARN MORE ABOUT PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF THE OCEAN

Currents, Gyres, & Eddies

At the surface and beneath, currents, gyres and eddies physically shape the coasts and ocean bottom.

Water Cycle

The water cycle describes the continuous movement of water on, above and below the surface of the Earth.

NOAA. What causes ocean waves? https://oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/facts/waves.html Accessed on December 4, 2020.

NOAA. Why does the ocean have waves? https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/wavesinocean.html . Accessed on December 4, 2020.

Smithsonian. Currents, Waves, and Tides. https://ocean.si.edu/planet-ocean/tides-currents/currents-waves-and-tides . Accessed on December 4, 2020.

The Weather Guys. How does the wind make waves on water? http://wxguys.ssec.wisc.edu/2014/09/02/how-does-the-wind-make-waves-on-water/ September 2, 2014.

DIVE INTO MORE OCEAN FACTS

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Explore the ocean’s critical role in carbon sequestration and how it could be a pathway to mitigate climate change.

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All About the Ocean

The ocean covers 70 percent of Earth's surface.

Biology, Earth Science, Oceanography, Geography, Physical Geography

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This article is also available in Spanish .

The ocean covers 70 percent of Earth 's surface. It contains about 1.35 billion cubic kilometers (324 million cubic miles) of water, which is about 97 percent of all the water on Earth. The ocean makes all life on Earth possible, and makes the planet appear blue when viewed from space. Earth is the only planet in our solar system that is definitely known to contain liquid water. Although the ocean is one continuous body of water, oceanographers have divided it into five principal areas: the Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, Arctic, and Southern Oceans. The Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans merge into icy waters around Antarctica. Climate The ocean plays a vital role in climate and weather . The sun’s heat causes water to evaporate , adding moisture to the air. The oceans provide most of this evaporated water. The water vapor condenses to form clouds, which release their moisture as rain or other kinds of precipitation . All life on Earth depends on this process, called the water cycle . The atmosphere receives much of its heat from the ocean. As the sun warms the water, the ocean transfers heat to the atmosphere. In turn, the atmosphere distributes the heat around the globe. Because water absorbs and loses heat more slowly than land masses, the ocean helps balance global temperatures by absorbing heat in the summer and releasing it in the winter. Without the ocean to help regulate global temperatures, Earth’s climate would be bitterly cold. Ocean Formation After Earth began to form about 4.6 billion years ago, it gradually separated into layers of lighter and heavier rock. The lighter rock rose and formed Earth’s crust . The heavier rock sank and formed Earth’s core and mantle . The ocean’s water came from rocks inside the newly forming Earth. As the molten rocks cooled, they released water vapor and other gases. Eventually, the water vapor condensed and covered the crust with a primitive ocean. Today, hot gases from the Earth’s interior continue to produce new water at the bottom of the ocean. Ocean Floor Scientists began mapping the ocean floor in the 1920s. They used instruments called echo sounders , which measure water depths using sound waves . Echo sounders use sonar technology. Sonar is an acronym for SOund Navigation And Ranging. The sonar showed that the ocean floor has dramatic physical features, including huge mountains, deep canyons , steep cliffs , and wide plains . The ocean’s crust is a thin layer of volcanic rock called basalt . The ocean floor is divided into several different areas. The first is the continental shelf , the nearly flat, underwater extension of a continent. Continental shelves vary in width. They are usually wide along low-lying land, and narrow along mountainous coasts. A shelf is covered in sediment from the nearby continent. Some of the sediment is deposited by rivers and trapped by features such as natural dams. Most sediment comes from the last glacial period , or Ice Age, when the oceans receded and exposed the continental shelf. This sediment is called relict sediment . At the outer edge of the continental shelf, the land drops off sharply in what is called the continental slope . The slope descends almost to the bottom of the ocean. Then it tapers off into a gentler slope known as the continental rise. The continental rise descends to the deep ocean floor, which is called the abyssal plain . Abyssal plains are broad, flat areas that lie at depths of about 4,000 to 6,000 meters (13,123 to 19,680 feet). Abyssal plains cover 30 percent of the ocean floor and are the flattest feature on Earth. They are covered by fine-grained sediment like clay and silt. Pelagic sediments, the remains of small ocean organisms, also drift down from upper layers of the ocean. Scattered across abyssal plains are abyssal hills and underwater volcanic peaks called seamounts. Rising from the abyssal plains in each major ocean is a huge chain of mostly undersea mountains. Called the mid-ocean ridge , the chain circles Earth, stretching more than 64,000 kilometers (40,000 miles). Much of the mid-ocean ridge is split by a deep central rift, or crack. Mid-ocean ridges mark the boundaries between tectonic plates . Molten rock from Earth’s interior wells up from the rift, building new seafloor in a process called seafloor spreading . A major portion of the ridge runs down the middle of the Atlantic Ocean and is known as the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. It was not directly seen or explored until 1973. Some areas of the ocean floor have deep, narrow depressions called ocean trenches . They are the deepest parts of the ocean. The deepest spot of all is the Challenger Deep , which lies in the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean near the island of Guam. Its true depth is not known, but the most accurate measurements put the Challenger Deep at 11,000 meters (36,198 feet) below the ocean’s surface—that’s more than 2,000 meters (6,000 feet) taller than Mount Everest, Earth’s highest point. The pressure in the Challenger Deep is about eight tons per square inch.

Ocean Life Zones From the shoreline to the deepest seafloor, the ocean teems with life. The hundreds of thousands of marine species range from microscopic algae to the largest creature to have ever lived on Earth, the blue whale. The ocean has five major life zones, each with organisms uniquely adapted to their specific marine ecosystem . The epipelagic zone (1) is the sunlit upper layer of the ocean. It reaches from the surface to about 200 meters (660 feet) deep. The epipelagic zone is also known as the photic or euphotic zone, and can exist in lakes as well as the ocean. The sunlight in the epipelagic zone allows photosynthesis to occur. Photosynthesis is the process by which some organisms convert sunlight and carbon dioxide into energy and oxygen . In the ocean, photosynthesis takes place in plants and algae. Plants such as seagrass are similar to land plants—they have roots, stems, and leaves. Algae is a type of aquatic organism that can photosynthesize sunlight. Large algae such as kelp are called seaweed . Phytoplankton also live in the epipelagic zone. Phytoplankton are microscopic organisms that include plants, algae, and bacteria. They are only visible when billions of them form algal blooms , and appear as green or blue splotches in the ocean. Phytoplankton are a basis of the ocean food web . Through photosynthesis, phytoplankton are responsible for almost half the oxygen released into Earth’s atmosphere. Animals such as krill (a type of shrimp), fish, and microscopic organisms called zooplankton all eat phytoplankton. In turn, these animals are eaten by whales, bigger fish, ocean birds, and human beings. The next zone down, stretching to about 1,000 meters (3,300 feet) deep, is the mesopelagic zone (2). This zone is also known as the twilight zone because the light there is very dim. The lack of sunlight means there are no plants in the mesopelagic zone, but large fish and whales dive there to hunt prey . Fish in this zone are small and luminous . One of the most common is the lanternfish, which has organs along its side that produce light. Sometimes, animals from the mesopelagic zone (such as sperm whales ( Physeter macrocephalus ) and squid) dive into the bathypelagic zone (3), which reaches to about 4,000 meters (13,100 feet) deep. The bathypelagic zone is also known as the midnight zone because no light reaches it. Animals that live in the bathypelagic zone are small, but they often have huge mouths, sharp teeth, and expandable stomachs that let them eat any food that comes along. Most of this food comes from the remains of plants and animals drifting down from upper pelagic zones. Many bathypelagic animals do not have eyes because they are unneeded in the dark. Because the pressure is so great and it is so difficult to find nutrients , fish in the bathypelagic zone move slowly and have strong gills to extract oxygen from the water. The water at the bottom of the ocean, the abyssopelagic zone (4), is very salty and cold (2 degrees Celsius, or 35 degrees Fahrenheit). At depths up to 6,000 meters (19,700 feet), the pressure is very strong—11,000 pounds per square inch. This makes it impossible for most animals to live. Animals in this zone have bizarre adaptations to cope with their ecosystem. Many fish have jaws that look unhinged. The jaws allow them to drag their open mouth along the seafloor to find food, such as mussels, shrimp, and microscopic organisms. Many of the animals in this zone, including squid and fish, are bioluminescent. Bioluminescent organisms produce light through chemical reactions in their bodies. A type of angler fish, for example, has a glowing growth extending in front of its huge, toothy mouth. When smaller fish are attracted to the light, the angler fish simply snaps its jaws to eat its prey. The deepest ocean zone, found in trenches and canyons, is called the hadalpelagic zone (5). Few organisms live here. They include tiny isopods , a type of crustacean related to crabs and shrimp. Invertebrates such as sponges and sea cucumbers thrive in the abyssopelagic and hadalpelagic zones. Like many sea stars and jellyfish, these animals are almost entirely dependent on falling parts of dead or decaying plants and animals, called marine detritus . Not all bottom dwellers, however, depend on marine detritus. In 1977, oceanographers discovered a community of creatures on the ocean floor that feed on bacteria around openings called hydrothermal vents. These vents discharge superheated water enriched with minerals from Earth’s interior. The minerals nourish unique bacteria, which in turn nourish creatures such as crabs, clams, and tube worms. Ocean Currents Currents are streams of water running through a larger body of water. Oceans, rivers, and streams have currents. The ocean’s salinity and temperature and the coast’s geographic features determine an ocean current’s behavior. Earth’s rotation and wind also influence ocean currents. Currents flowing near the surface transport heat from the tropics to the poles and move cooler water back toward the Equator . This keeps the ocean from becoming extremely hot or cold. Deep, cold currents transport oxygen to organisms throughout the ocean. They also carry rich supplies of nutrients that all living things need. The nutrients come from plankton and the remains of other organisms that drift down and decay on the ocean floor. Along some coasts, winds and currents produce a phenomenon called upwelling . As winds push surface water away from shore, deep currents of cold water rise to take its place. This upwelling of deep water brings up nutrients that nourish new growth of plankton, providing food for fish. Ocean food chains constantly recycle food and energy this way.

Some ocean currents are enormous and extremely powerful. One of the most powerful is the Gulf Stream , a warm surface current that originates in the tropical Caribbean Sea and flows northeast along the eastern coast of the United States. The Gulf Stream measures up to 80 kilometers (50 miles) wide and is more than a kilometer (3,281 feet) deep. Like other ocean currents, the Gulf Stream plays a major role in climate. As the current travels north, it transfers moisture from its warm tropical waters to the air above. Westerly, or prevailing, winds carry the warm, moist air to the British Isles and to Scandinavia , causing them to have milder winters than they otherwise would experience at their northern latitudes . Northern parts of Norway are near the Arctic Circle but remain ice-free for most of the year because of the Gulf Stream. The weather pattern known as El Niño includes a change to the Humboldt Current (also called the Peru Current) off the western coast of South America. In El Niño conditions, a current of warm surface water travels east along the Equator and prevents the normal upwelling of the cold, nutrient-rich Humboldt Current. El Niño, which can devastate the fisheries of Peru and Ecuador, occurs every two to seven years, usually in December. The paths of ocean currents are partially determined by Earth’s rotation. This is known as the Coriolis effect . It causes large systems, such as winds and ocean currents that would normally move in a straight line, to veer to the right in the northern hemisphere and to the left in the southern hemisphere . People and the Ocean For thousands of years, people have depended on the ocean as a source of food and as a route for trade and exploration . Today, people continue to travel on the ocean and rely on the resources it contains. Nations continue to negotiate how to determine the extent of their territory beyond the coast. The United Nations’ Law of the Sea treaty established exclusive economic zones (EEZs), extending 200 nautical miles (230 miles) beyond a nation’s coastline. Even though some countries have not signed or ratified the treaty (including the U.S.), it is regarded as standard. Russia has proposed extending its EEZ beyond 200 nautical miles because two mid-ocean ridges, the Lomonosov and Medeleev Ridges, are extensions of the continental shelf belonging to Russia. This territory includes the North Pole. Russian explorers in a submersible vehicle planted a metal Russian flag on the disputed territory in 2007. Through the centuries, people have sailed the ocean on trade routes . Today, ships still carry most of the world’s freight , particularly bulky goods such as machinery, grain, and oil . Ocean ports are areas of commerce and culture. Water and land transportation meet there, and so do people of different professions: businesspeople who import and export goods and services; dockworkers who load and unload cargo ; and ships’ crews. Ports also have a high concentration of migrants and immigrants with a wide variety of ethnicities, nationalities, languages, and religions. Important ports in the U.S. are New York/ New Jersey and New Orleans. The busiest ports around the world include the Port of Shanghai in China and the Port of Rotterdam in the Netherlands. Ocean ports are also important for a nation’s armed forces. Some ports are used exclusively for military purposes, although most share space with commercial businesses. “The sun never sets on the British Empire” is a phrase used to explain the scope of the empire of Great Britain , mostly in the 19th century. Although based on the small European island nation of Great Britain, British military sea power extended its empire from Africa to the Americas, Asia, and Australia. Scientists and other experts hope the ocean will be used more widely as a source of renewable energy . Some countries have already harnessed the energy of ocean waves, temperature, currents, or tides to power turbines and generate electricity. One source of renewable energy are generators that are powered by tidal streams or ocean currents. They convert the movement of currents into energy. Ocean current generators have not been developed on a large scale, but are working in some places in Ireland and Norway. Some conservationists criticize the impact the large constructions have on the marine environment. Another source of renewable energy is ocean thermal energy conversion (OTEC). It uses the difference in temperature between the warm, surface water and cold, deep water to run an engine. OTEC facilities exist in places with significant differences in ocean depth: Japan, India and the U.S. state of Hawai'i, for instance. An emerging source of renewable energy is salinity gradient power , also known as osmotic power. It is an energy source that uses the power of freshwater entering into saltwater. This technology is still being developed, but it has potential in delta areas where fresh river water is constantly interacting with the ocean. Fishing Fishers catch more than 90 million tons of seafood each year, including more than 100 species of fish and shellfish . Millions of people, from professional fishers to business owners like restaurant owners and boat builders, depend on fisheries for their livelihood . Fishing can be classified in two ways. In subsistence fishing, fishers use their catch to help meet the nutritional needs of their families or communities. In commercial fishing , fishers sell their catch for money, goods or services. Popular subsistence and commercial fish are tuna, cod, and shrimp. Ocean fishing is also a popular recreational sport. Sport fishing can be competitive or noncompetitive. In sport fishing tournaments, individuals or teams compete for prizes based on the size of a particular species caught in a specific time period. Both competitive and noncompetitive sport fishers need licenses to fish, and may or may not keep the caught fish. Increasingly, sport fishers practice catch-and-release fishing, where a fish is caught, measured, weighed, and often recorded on film before being released back to the ocean. Popular game fish (fish caught for sport) are tuna and marlin. Whaling is a type of fishing that involves the harvesting of whales and dolphins. It has declined in popularity since the 19th century but is still a way of life for many cultures, such as those in Scandinavia, Japan, Canada, and the Caribbean. The ocean offers a wealth of fishing and whaling resources, but these resources are threatened. People have harvested so much fish and marine life for food and other products that some species have disappeared. During the 1800s and early 1900s, whalers killed thousands of whales for whale oil (wax made from boiled blubber ) and ivory (whales’ teeth). Some species, including the blue whale ( Balaenoptera musculus ) and the right whale, were hunted nearly to extinction . Many species are still endangered today. In the 1960s and 1970s, catches of important food fish, such as herring in the North Sea and anchovies in the Pacific, began to drop off dramatically. Governments took notice of overfishing —harvesting more fish than the ecosystem can replenish . Fishers were forced to go farther out to sea to find fish, putting them at risk. (Deep-sea fishing is one of the most dangerous jobs in the world.) Now, they use advanced equipment, such as electronic fish finders and large gill nets or trawling nets, to catch more fish. This means there are far fewer fish to reproduce and replenish the supply. In 1992, the collapse, or disappearance, of cod in Canada’s Newfoundland Grand Banks put 40,000 fishers out of work. A ban was placed on cod fishing, and to this day, neither the cod nor the fisheries have recovered. To catch the dwindling numbers of fish, most fishers use trawl nets. They drag the nets along the seabed and across acres of ocean. These nets accidentally catch many small, young fish and mammals. Animals caught in fishing nets meant for other species are called bycatch . The fishing industry and fisheries management agencies argue about how to address the problem of bycatch and overfishing. Those involved in the fishing industry do not want to lose their jobs, while conservationists want to maintain healthy levels of fish in the ocean. A number of consumers are choosing to purchase sustainable seafood . Sustainable seafood is harvested from sources (either wild or farmed) that do not deplete the natural ecosystem. Mining and Drilling Many minerals come from the ocean. Sea salt is a mineral that has been used as a flavoring and preservative since ancient times. Sea salt has many additional minerals, such as calcium, that ordinary table salt lacks. Hydrothermal vents often form seafloor massive sulfide (SMS) deposits , which contain precious metals. These SMS deposits sit on the ocean floor, sometimes in the deep ocean and sometimes closer to the surface. New techniques are being developed to mine the seafloor for valuable minerals such as copper, lead, nickel, gold, and silver. Mining companies employ thousands of people and provide goods and services for millions more. Critics of undersea mining maintain that it disrupts the local ecology . Organisms—corals, shrimp, mussels—that live on the seabed have their habitat disturbed, upsetting the food chain. In addition, destruction of habitat threatens the viability of species that have a narrow niche . Maui’s dolphin ( Cephalorhynchus hectori maui ), for instance, is a critically endangered species native to the waters of New Zealand’s North Island. The numbers of Maui’s dolphin are already reduced because of bycatch. Seabed mining threatens its habitat, putting it at further risk of extinction. Oil is one of the most valuable resources taken from the ocean today. Offshore oil rigs pump petroleum from wells drilled into the continental shelf. About one-quarter of all oil and natural gas supplies now comes from offshore oil deposits around the world. Offshore drilling requires complex engineering . An oil platform can be constructed directly onto the ocean floor, or it can “float” above an anchor. Depending on how far out on the continental shelf an oil platform is located, workers may have to be flown in. Underwater, or subsea, facilities are complicated groups of drilling equipment connected to each other and a single oil rig. Subsea production often requires remotely operated underwater vehicles (ROVs). Some countries invest in offshore drilling for profit and to prevent reliance on oil from other regions. The Gulf of Mexico near the U.S. states of Texas and Louisiana is heavily drilled. Several European countries, including the United Kingdom, Denmark, and the Netherlands, drill in the North Sea. Offshore drilling is a complicated and expensive program, however. There are a limited number of companies that have the knowledge and resources to work with local governments to set up offshore oil rigs. Most of these companies are based in Europe and North America, although they do business all over the world. Some governments have banned offshore oil drilling. They cite safety and environmental concerns. There have been several accidents where the platform itself has exploded, at the cost of many lives. Offshore drilling also poses threats to the ocean ecosystem. Spills and leaks from oil rigs and oil tankers that transport the material seriously harm marine mammals and birds. Oil coats feathers, impairing birds’ ability to maintain their body temperature and remain buoyant in the water. The fur of otters and seals are also coated, and oil entering the digestive tract of animals may damage their organs. Offshore oil rigs also release metal cuttings, minute amounts of oil, and drilling fluid into the ocean every day. Drilling fluid is the liquid used with machinery to drill holes deep in the planet. This liquid can contain pollutants such as toxic chemicals and heavy metals . Pollution Most oil pollution does not come from oil spills, however. It comes from the runoff of pollutants into streams and rivers that flow into the ocean. Most runoff comes from individual consumers. Cars, buses, motorcycles, and even lawn mowers spill oil and grease on roads, streets, and highways. (Runoff is what makes busy roads shiny and sometimes slippery.) Storm drains or creeks wash the runoff into local waterways, which eventually flow into the ocean. The largest U.S. oil spill in the ocean took place in Alaska in 1989, by the tanker Exxon Valdez . The Exxon Valdez spilled at least 10 million gallons of oil into Prince William Sound. In comparison, American and Canadian consumers spill about 16 million gallons of oil runoff into the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans every year. For centuries, people have used the ocean as a dumping ground for sewage and other wastes. In the 21st century, the wastes include not only oil, but also chemical runoff from factories and agriculture . These chemicals include nitrates and phosphates , which are often used as fertilizers . These chemicals encourage algae blooms. An algae bloom is an increase in algae and bacteria that threatens plants and other marine life. Algae blooms limit the amount of oxygen in a marine environment, leading to what are known as dead zones , where little life exists beneath the ocean’s surface. Algae blooms can spread across hundreds or even thousands of miles. Another source of pollution is plastics . Most ocean debris, or garbage, is plastic thrown out by consumers. Plastics such as water bottles, bags, six-pack rings, and packing material put marine life at risk. Sea animals are harmed by the plastic either by getting tangled in it or by eating it. An example of marine pollution consisting mainly of plastics is the Great Pacific Garbage Patch . The Great Pacific Garbage Patch is a floating dump in the North Pacific. It’s about twice the size of Texas and probably contains about 100 million tons of debris. Most of this debris comes from the western coast of North America (the U.S. and Canada) and the eastern coast of Asia (Japan, China, Russia, North Korea, and South Korea). Because of ocean currents and weather patterns, the patch is a relatively stable formation and contains new and disintegrating debris. The smaller pieces of plastic debris are eaten by jellyfish or other organisms, and are then consumed by larger predators in the food web. These plastic chemicals may then enter a human’s diet through fish or shellfish. Another source of pollution is carbon dioxide. The ocean absorbs most carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Carbon dioxide, which is necessary for life, is known as a greenhouse gas and traps radiation in Earth’s atmosphere. Carbon dioxide forms many acids, called carbonic acids , in the ocean. Ocean ecosystems have adapted to the presence of certain levels of carbonic acids, but the increase in carbon dioxide has led to an increase in ocean acids. This ocean acidification erodes the shells of animals such as clams, crabs, and corals. Global Warming Global warming contributes to rising ocean temperatures and sea levels . Warmer oceans radically alter the ecosystem. Global warming causes cold-water habitats to shrink, meaning there is less room for animals such as penguins, seals, or whales. Plankton, the base of the ocean food chain, thrives in cold water. Warming water means there will be less plankton available for marine life to eat. Melting glaciers and ice sheets contribute to sea level rise . Rising sea levels threaten coastal ecosystems and property. River deltas and estuaries are put at risk for flooding. Coasts are more likely to suffer erosion . Seawater more often contaminates sources of fresh water. All these consequences—flooding, erosion, water contamination—put low-lying island nations, such as the Maldives in the Indian Ocean, at high risk for disaster. To find ways to protect the ocean from pollution and the effects of climate change, scientists from all over the world are cooperating in studies of ocean waters and marine life. They are also working together to control pollution and limit global warming. Many countries are working to reach agreements on how to manage and harvest ocean resources. Although the ocean is vast, it is more easily polluted and damaged than people once thought. It requires care and protection as well as expert management. Only then can it continue to provide the many resources that living things—including people—need.

The Most Coast . . . Canada has 202,080 kilometers (125,567 miles) of coastline. Short But Sweet . . . Monaco has four kilometers (2.5 miles) of coastline.

No, the Toilet Doesn't Flush Backward in Australia The Coriolis effect, which can be seen in large-scale phenomena like trade winds and ocean currents, cannot be duplicated in small basins like sinks.

Extraterrestrial Oceans Mars probably had oceans billions of years ago, but ice and dry seabeds are all that remain today. Europa, one of Jupiter's moons, is probably covered by an ocean of water more than 96 kilometers (60 miles) deep, but it is trapped beneath a layer of ice, which the warmer water below frequently cracks. One of Saturn's moons, Enceladus, has cryovolcanism, or ice volcanoes. Instead of erupting with lava, ice volcanoes erupt with water, ammonia, or methane. Ice volcanoes may indicate oceanic activity.

International Oil Spill The largest oil spill in history, the Gulf War oil spill, released at least 40 million gallons of oil into the Persian Gulf. Valves at the Sea Island oil terminal in Kuwait were opened on purpose after Iraq invaded Kuwait in 1991. The oil was intended to stop a landing by U.S. Marines, but the oil drifted south to the shores of Saudi Arabia. A study of the Gulf War oil spill (conducted by the United Nations, several countries in the Middle East and the United States) found that most of the spilled oil evaporated and caused little damage to the environment.

Ocean Seas The floors of the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea are more like the ocean than other seas they do not rest on a continent, but directly on the ocean's basalt crust.

Early Ocean Explorers Polynesian people navigated a region of the Pacific Ocean now known as the Polynesian Triangle by 700 C.E. The corners of the Polynesian Triangle are islands: the American state of Hawai'i, the country of New Zealand, and the Chilean territory of Easter Island (also known as Rapa Nui). The distance between Easter Island and New Zealand, the longest length of the Polynesian Triangle, is one-quarter of Earth's circumference, more than 10,000 kilometers (6,200 miles). Polynesians successfully traveled these distances in canoes. It would be hundreds of years before another culture explored the ocean to this extent.

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March 5, 2024

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How To Describe Waves in Writing (100+ Examples & Words)

Waves are more than just water — they’re a canvas for storytelling. In writing, capturing the essence of waves can bring scenes to life.

Here is how to describe waves in writing:

Describe waves in writing by focusing on elements such as size, color, sound, movement, texture, temperature, shape, speed, force, impact, and rhythm. Use vivid words and phrases to convey the wave’s character and emotion.

Let’s dive into the different types of waves and explore how to describe them effectively.

Types of Waves

Table of Contents

Understanding the types of waves is crucial for vivid descriptions. There are primarily three kinds:

• Oceanic Waves: Generated by wind, these waves are common in seas and oceans.
• Tsunami Waves: Caused by underwater disturbances like earthquakes, these are massive and destructive.
• Tidal Waves: Influenced by the moon’s gravity, these are predictable and occur in cycles.

Each type of wave carries a unique character, influencing how they should be described in writing.

1. Size : Understanding Wave Size

Size matters when it comes to describing waves. It sets the stage for the scene’s mood. Is the wave towering and intimidating, or small and playful? The size of a wave can convey emotions, from tranquility to terror.

Example Sentences:

• The waves were colossal, looming over the ship like angry titans.
• Tiny waves danced around my ankles, tickling my feet.
• A medium-sized wave playfully tossed the surfers towards the shore.
• Gigantic waves crashed against the cliff, sending sprays of foam skyward.
• Small, gentle waves whispered secrets to the sandy beach.
• The wave was a monster, swallowing the sun as it rose.
• Miniature waves lapped lazily against the boat.
• A massive wave surged forward, a liquid mountain in a furious ocean.
• The waves were of average height, but their power was undeniable.
• Petite waves frolicked in the moonlight, creating a magical scene.

2. Color : The Palette of the Sea

The color of a wave can reflect the environment, the weather, and the time of day. It’s a visual feast, ranging from deep blues to emerald greens, often speckled with white foam.

• The waves glowed a deep sapphire in the morning light.
• Emerald waves crashed onto the shore, a display of nature’s vibrancy.
• Dark, almost black waves foretold the approaching storm.
• The sunset turned the waves into a palette of gold and orange.
• Turquoise waves sparkled under the bright sun.
• The waves were a dull gray, mirroring the overcast sky.
• White-capped waves contrasted sharply against the deep blue sea.
• At dawn, the waves took on a soft pink hue.
• The waves were a clear, crystal blue, inviting and serene.
• In the moonlight, the waves appeared almost silver.

3. Sound : Listening to the Ocean’s Song

The sound of waves is as varied as their size and color. It can be a soothing lullaby or a fearsome roar. Describing the sound can immerse the reader in the scene, making them hear what your characters hear.

• The waves roared like an angry beast as they crashed onto the shore.
• A gentle whoosh accompanied the small waves as they kissed the beach.
• The sound of the waves was a rhythmic, calming hum.
• Each wave crashed with a thunderous boom, echoing against the rocks.
• The playful splashes of the waves created a cheerful melody.
• The waves whispered secrets as they retreated from the sand.
• A loud, intimidating crash announced the arrival of the big waves.
• The waves’ soft murmur was a lullaby that lulled me to sleep.
• With a fierce howl, the waves battered the coastline.
• The waves chuckled softly as they played around my feet.

4. Movement : Choreography of the Sea

The movement of waves is a dance orchestrated by nature. It can be slow and graceful or fast and chaotic. Describing this movement helps visualize the scene’s pace and energy.

• The waves rolled in lazily, a slow-motion display of power.
• Rapid, choppy waves raced towards the shore in a frenzied dance.
• Each wave glided smoothly towards the beach, a serene procession.
• The waves surged back and forth, a never-ending battle with the shore.
• Playful waves skipped and hopped over each other in their rush to the land.
• The wave’s graceful arc was a ballet in the ocean.
• Aggressive waves lunged at the rocks, a display of unbridled fury.
• The waves swayed gently, a peaceful rhythm in the aquatic world.
• Quick, eager waves darted towards the sand, leaving foamy trails.
• The waves tumbled over themselves, a chaotic tumble in the tempestuous sea.

5. Texture : Feeling the Surface of the Sea

The texture of a wave is a tactile experience, often overlooked but deeply evocative. It can range from smooth and glassy to rough and tumultuous, adding a sensory dimension to the description.

• The waves felt silky as they flowed over my skin.
• Rough, choppy waves battered against my legs with gritty force.
• The wave’s surface was smooth as glass, reflecting the sunlight.
• Frothy, foamy waves tickled my feet with their bubbly touch.
• The waves were uneven, a chaotic jumble of water and air.
• Each wave caressed the shore with a soft, velvety touch.
• The waves were harsh, a bristly brush against my arms.
• A smooth, rolling wave enveloped me in a gentle embrace.
• The turbulent waves felt like a sandpaper scraping against my skin.
• Velvety waves slipped through my fingers, a fleeting softness.

6. Temperature : The Warmth and Chill of the Waves

Temperature adds an emotional layer to wave descriptions. It can be the refreshing coolness of a summer wave or the biting chill of a winter sea, evoking physical reactions in the reader.

• The wave’s cool embrace was a relief from the scorching sun.
• Icy waves nipped at my toes, a brisk reminder of the season.
• The warm wave wrapped around me like a comfortable blanket.
• Chilly waves sent shivers up my spine as I waded deeper.
• The water was tepid, a lukewarm welcome to the ocean.
• A cold wave splashed over me, a sharp contrast to the humid air.
• The wave’s warmth was surprising, like a bath under the sun.
• Freezing waves crashed against me, taking my breath away.
• The waves were refreshingly cool, a perfect antidote to the heat.
• A warm current flowed through the waves, a pleasant surprise in the chilly sea.

7. Shape : Contours of the Ocean Waves

The shape of a wave is its signature. It can be a towering wall of water or a gentle, rolling hill. This visual element can dramatically change the scene’s atmosphere.

• The wave curled into a perfect tube, a surfer’s dream.
• Gentle, rolling waves formed soft undulating hills on the ocean’s surface.
• The wave peaked sharply, a jagged edge against the sky.
• Broad, flat waves spread out lazily across the bay.
• The waves formed crescent shapes, cradling the surfers.
• A towering wave stood upright, a wall of water defying gravity.
• The wave’s gentle slope was like a smooth ramp to the shore.
• Sharp, angular waves cut through the water, a geometric dance.
• The waves bunched up, forming a chaotic cluster of peaks and troughs.
• Each wave was a gentle curve, a soft arch in the sea.

8. Speed : Velocity of the Sea’s Movements

Speed in wave descriptions conveys urgency and momentum. It can range from a languid crawl to a rapid rush, reflecting the energy of the scene.

• The waves advanced slowly, a leisurely approach to the shore.
• Fast-moving waves crashed onto the beach with urgent fervor.
• The wave approached at a snail’s pace, prolonging the anticipation.
• Quick waves zipped by, barely touching the sand before retreating.
• A gradual wave inched its way to the land, a slow but steady force.
• The wave sped towards the shore, a racer in the final lap.
• The wave’s crawl was almost imperceptible, a slow-motion display.
• Swift waves surged forward, eager to reach their destination.
• The wave’s leisurely pace was calming, a gentle approach to the coast.
• Rapid waves rushed in a flurry, a blur of water and foam.

9. Force : The Power Behind Each Wave

The force of a wave reflects its strength and impact. It can be a gentle nudge or a formidable shove, affecting everything from the narrative’s tone to the characters’ reactions.

• The wave hit with a gentle force, a soft push against my body.
• A powerful wave slammed into the shore, shaking the ground beneath my feet.
• The wave’s mild force was a caress rather than a hit.
• An immense wave exerted a fierce pressure, knocking me off my feet.
• The wave’s force was subtle, barely noticeable as it brushed past.
• A strong wave pushed me effortlessly towards the beach.
• The wave’s force felt like a tender hug from the sea.
• A colossal wave unleashed its fury, a brutal display of nature’s strength.
• The wave nudged me gently, a polite invitation to play.
• The wave’s force was overwhelming, a powerful surge that engulfed everything in its path.

10. Impact : The Aftermath of a Wave’s Touch

Impact describes the effect of a wave on its surroundings. It’s not just the physical interaction but also the emotional and environmental consequences.

• The wave’s impact left a trail of foamy residue on the sand.
• A strong wave’s impact stirred up the seabed, clouding the water.
• The gentle impact of the wave left a soothing sensation on my skin.
• The wave crashed with such impact that it echoed along the coastline.
• The wave’s impact was minimal, leaving the beach almost untouched.
• A mighty wave’s impact carved a new shape into the rocky shore.
• The impact of the wave was a refreshing splash, invigorating my senses.
• The wave’s powerful impact uprooted seaweed and shells, leaving them scattered.
• The impact of the small wave was a whisper against the shore.
• The wave hit with such impact that it felt like a physical embrace.

11. Rhythm : The Pulsating Heart of the Sea

Rhythm in wave descriptions captures the pattern and tempo of their movement. It’s the heartbeat of the sea, a pattern that can be calming, erratic, or anything in between.

• The waves had a steady rhythm, like the beat of a drum.
• Irregular waves created a chaotic rhythm, unpredictable and wild.
• The rhythmic lapping of the waves was a soothing, consistent sound.
• Each wave crashed in a frenetic rhythm, a symphony of chaos.
• The waves followed a slow rhythm, a languid dance with the shore.
• The rapid rhythm of the waves was exhilarating, a fast-paced melody.
• The waves’ rhythm was erratic, changing tempo with each surge.
• A gentle, predictable rhythm marked the waves’ approach and retreat.
• The waves pounded in a fierce rhythm, relentless and powerful.
• The soothing rhythm of the waves was a lullaby, lulling me into tranquility.

50 Best Words to Describe Waves in Writing

These are some of the best words for how to describe waves in writing:

• Invigorating

50 Best Phrases to Describe Waves in Writing

Here are some of the best phrases to describe waves in your stories.

• A symphony of water and wind.
• Sea’s rhythmic dance.
• Whispering aquatic secrets.
• A ballet of blues and greens.
• The ocean’s mighty applause.
• Waves kissing the shore.
• A tapestry of aquatic motion.
• The sea’s relentless march.
• Foamy fingers reaching for the beach.
• The gentle caress of the ocean.
• A tumultuous ocean orchestra.
• Cascading liquid curtains.
• The sea’s serene lullaby.
• Roaring aquatic beasts.
• Shimmering under the sun’s kiss.
• The playful leap of water.
• Waves weaving watery wonders.
• A chorus of oceanic fury.
• The tranquil murmur of the sea.
• A cascade of sparkling diamonds.
• The sea’s rhythmic whisper.
• Waves sculpting the shoreline.
• A storm’s aquatic anger.
• The peaceful sigh of the sea.
• Dancing waves under the moonlight.
• The ocean’s furious roar.
• Gentle giants of the deep.
• The eternal ebb and flow.
• Waves carving their path.
• A frothy embrace of the shore.
• The sea’s playful tickle.
• A crescendo of crashing water.
• The ocean’s soft caress.
• A symphony of surging waves.
• The hypnotic rhythm of the sea.
• Waves painting the coast.
• The relentless pursuit of the shore.
• A ballet of surging tides.
• Whispering waves in the night.
• The sea’s gentle serenade.
• A mosaic of moving water.
• The ocean’s rhythmic heartbeat.
• The wild dance of the waves.
• The sea’s harmonious melody.
• A tapestry of tidal tales.
• The whisper of wandering waves.
• The ocean’s soothing whispers.
• A symphony of sea and sky.
• The playful song of the sea.
• Waves echoing nature’s call.

3 Full Examples of How to Describe Waves In Different Genres

Let’s look at full examples of how to describe waves in different kinds of stories.

Mystery Genre

The waves were like dark secrets, crashing against the shore under the moonless sky.

Each surge seemed to whisper a cryptic message, as if the ocean itself was hiding something sinister beneath its turbulent surface. The foamy edges of each wave glinted eerily in the faint light, painting a scene both mesmerizing and foreboding. The relentless rhythm of the sea created an ominous backdrop, perfect for the mysteries that lay waiting in the shadows of the coastal town.

Romance Genre

The waves rolled in gently, a soft symphony under the starlit sky.

They caressed the sandy beach like a lover’s tender touch, leaving behind a shimmering trail under the moon’s romantic glow. The rhythmic sound of the water was a serene lullaby, setting a backdrop for whispered confessions and stolen kisses.

In this magical moment, the waves were not just water but messengers of love, bringing hearts closer with each tender lap against the shore.

Fantasy Genre

Majestic waves soared high, crowned with ethereal light, in the enchanted sea of Eldoria.

Each wave was a living entity, glowing with an inner magic, illuminating the night with colors unseen in the mortal realm. The ocean sang an ancient melody, a song of legends and forgotten realms, beckoning adventurers to explore its mystical depths.

These were not mere waves — they were liquid sculptures of the ancient magic that flowed through the land, a dance of the sea’s ageless power.

Here is a good video that will help you learn how to describe waves in writing:

Final Thoughts: How To Describe Waves in Writing

Capturing the essence of waves in writing adds depth and vividness to your narrative.

Explore our other articles on descriptions to enhance your storytelling.

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Essay on Waves

Students are often asked to write an essay on Waves in their schools and colleges. And if you’re also looking for the same, we have created 100-word, 250-word, and 500-word essays on the topic.

Let’s take a look…

100 Words Essay on Waves

Introduction to waves.

Waves are everywhere. From the sound we hear, to the light we see, even the heat we feel, all are waves. They carry energy from one place to another.

Types of Waves

There are two main types of waves: mechanical and electromagnetic. Mechanical waves, like sound, need a medium to travel. Electromagnetic waves, like light, can travel through space.

Parts of a Wave

Each wave has a peak, called the crest, and a bottom point, called the trough. The height of a wave is its amplitude, and the distance between two crests is the wavelength.

Wave Interactions

Waves can interact with each other. When they meet, they can add up (constructive interference) or cancel each other out (destructive interference). This is how noise-cancelling headphones work.

Also check:

• 10 Lines on Waves

250 Words Essay on Waves

The nature of waves.

Waves are omnipresent phenomena, existing in various forms from the observable macrocosm to the elusive quantum realm. They are disturbances that transfer energy from one place to another without transferring matter. The study of waves is crucial in fields such as physics, engineering, and even biology.

Waves are classified into mechanical and electromagnetic waves. Mechanical waves, like sound and seismic waves, require a medium for propagation, while electromagnetic waves, such as light and radio waves, can travel through the vacuum of space.

Wave Properties

Waves exhibit properties such as amplitude, wavelength, frequency, and speed. Amplitude is the maximum displacement of a point on the wave from its rest position, reflecting the energy of the wave. Wavelength is the distance between two successive similar points on the wave, while frequency is the number of waves that pass a point per unit time. The speed of a wave is the rate at which it propagates through a medium.

Waves can interact in fascinating ways, creating patterns of constructive and destructive interference. These interactions are fundamental to technologies such as noise-cancelling headphones and radio transmission.

Implications and Applications

Understanding waves has facilitated numerous technological advancements, from communication systems to medical imaging. The study of quantum waves has even challenged our perception of reality, suggesting that particles can exist in multiple states simultaneously until observed.

In conclusion, waves, with their diverse forms and properties, are an integral part of the universe, driving advancements in various scientific fields and technologies.

500 Words Essay on Waves

Waves are a ubiquitous part of our universe, present in various forms, from the gentle undulations of the ocean to the invisible electromagnetic waves that enable wireless communication. In its most basic form, a wave is a disturbance that travels through space and matter, transferring energy from one place to another.

Waves can be categorized into two main types: mechanical and electromagnetic. Mechanical waves, such as sound waves or seismic waves, require a medium (like air, water, or solid ground) to travel. On the other hand, electromagnetic waves, which include light, radio, and X-rays, can travel through the vacuum of space. This distinction is crucial in understanding the behavior and applications of different types of waves.

Wave Characteristics

Waves possess several fundamental characteristics that define their behavior. The amplitude refers to the maximum displacement of the wave from its equilibrium position, essentially determining the wave’s energy. The wavelength is the distance over which the wave’s shape repeats. The frequency, measured in Hertz, is the number of cycles a wave completes in a given time. These characteristics interrelate in important ways, most notably in the wave equation, which states that the speed of a wave equals the product of its wavelength and frequency.

Wave Interference and Superposition

One of the most intriguing aspects of wave behavior is the principle of superposition, which leads to phenomena such as interference and diffraction. When two or more waves meet, they superpose, resulting in a new wave. If the waves align peak to peak, they constructively interfere, creating a wave with greater amplitude. Conversely, if a peak aligns with a trough, they destructively interfere, diminishing the resultant wave’s amplitude. This principle is at the heart of many technological applications, including noise-canceling headphones and the analysis of light from distant stars.

Applications of Waves

The study of waves has led to numerous technological advancements. Electromagnetic waves, for instance, are the foundation of our modern communication systems. Radio waves transmit information to our devices, while visible light waves enable us to perceive the world around us. In medicine, ultrasound waves provide non-invasive imaging of the body’s interior, and X-rays allow us to see through soft tissue to examine the skeletal system.

In conclusion, waves are a fundamental aspect of the physical world, with a wide range of types, characteristics, and behaviors. Their study has not only deepened our understanding of the universe but also facilitated numerous technological advancements that underpin modern society. From the gentle lapping of ocean waves to the invisible signals connecting our devices, waves are a testament to the complexity and interconnectedness of our universe.

That’s it! I hope the essay helped you.

If you’re looking for more, here are essays on other interesting topics:

• Essay on My Watch
• Essay on I Am a Watch
• Essay on Watch

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Lesson 9 - Ocean Waves

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Rogue waves in the ocean are much more common than anyone suspected, says new study

Professor in Ocean Engineering, The University of Melbourne

Disclosure statement

Alessandro Toffoli receives funding from the Australia Research Council.

University of Melbourne provides funding as a founding partner of The Conversation AU.

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We used three-dimensional imaging of ocean waves to capture freakish seas that produce a notorious phenomenon known as rogue waves. Our results are now published in Physical Review Letters*.

Rogue waves are giant colossi of the sea – twice as high as neighbouring waves – that appear seemingly out of nowhere. Stories of unimaginable mountains of water as tall as ten-storey buildings have populated maritime folklore and literature for centuries.

Recent technology has allowed scientists to spot rogue waves out at sea , making legend become reality. The first and most famous measurement was of the Draupner wave , a 25.6-metre monster recorded in the North Sea on January 1 1995.

Despite observations, we still don’t know how often rogue waves occur, or if we can predict them. A record of a rogue wave doesn’t include specific features that distinguish the sea around it, so we can’t make comparisons or predict the conditions needed.

Our team set sail on the South African icebreaker S.A. Agulhas-II to chase rogue waves across the Southern Ocean, where mighty winds shape Earth’s fiercest waves .

Read more: The South African ship that found Antarctica's Endurance wreck is vital for climate science

What creates rogue waves?

In the random environment of ocean waves, several mechanisms give rise to rogue ones. One primary source involves the overlap of multiple waves at the same location and time. This results in concentrated energy, leading to tall waves.

Under consistent ocean conditions, rogue waves generated this way may occur once every two days at a set location. But the ocean is dynamic, so conditions are rarely consistent for long – making it less likely for rogue waves to occur. The overlap of waves may be minimal or non-existent even during prolonged and intense storms.

Numerical and laboratory studies suggest strong winds also contribute to the development of rogue waves, because they push harder on some already tall wave forms. But wind has seldom been considered in rogue wave analysis.

Wind prompts ocean waves to grow progressively higher, longer and faster. During this stage, waves are “young” and hungry for wind input. When waves go faster than wind, they stop being accelerated by it and reach a “mature” stage of full development.

Through this process, the wind creates a chaotic situation where waves of different dimensions and directions coexist.

Our recent observations show that unique sea conditions with rogue waves can arise during the “young” stage – when waves are particularly responsive to the wind. This suggests wind parameters could be the missing link. However, there’s even more to consider.

Powerful waves amplify each other

Ocean waves are one of the most powerful natural forces on Earth and could become even more powerful in the future due to climate change. If the wave field possesses an extreme amount of energy – when waves are steep and most of them have a similar amplitude, length and direction – another mechanism can trigger the formation of rogue waves.

This mechanism involves an exchange of energy between waves that produces a “self-amplification”, where one wave grows disproportionately at the expense of its neighbours. Theoretically, studies show this could increase the likelihood of rogue waves ten-fold.

While self-amplification manifests as whitecaps – frothy, aerated crests of choppy waves – until now there has been no evidence it can make rogue waves more likely in the ocean.

Recent experiments suggest wind can make extreme events like rogue waves more common. But this aspect has not been thoroughly explored.

What did we find in the Southern Ocean?

We used a new three-dimensional imaging method for scanning the ocean surface throughout the expedition. It mimics human vision: closely located sensors record sequences of simultaneous images. Computer algorithms then match pairs of them to reconstruct the three-dimensional depths – the wavy surface.

As our ship passed through several storms, the sensors captured data during various phases of wave growth – from the early stages of young waves fuelled by the wind, to mature waves that aren’t influenced by it.

Our results show young waves display signs of self-amplification and an increased likelihood of rogue waves. We recorded waves twice as high as their neighbours once every six hours.

This mirrors what lab models have reported: sea conditions theoretically more prone to self-amplification would produce more rogue waves.

In contrast, mature seas don’t show an increased probability of rogue waves. We detected none under those conditions.

Our findings challenge previous thinking: that self-amplification doesn’t change the likelihood of rogue waves in the ocean. We have also shown that when developing tools for predicting rogue waves, we need to take wind into thorough consideration. After all, it’s a natural feature of the open sea.

• Southern ocean
• Oceanography
• Ocean science
• New research, Australia New Zealand

Program Manager, Teaching & Learning Initiatives

Lecturer/Senior Lecturer, Earth System Science (School of Science)

Sydney Horizon Educators (Identified)

Deputy Social Media Producer

Associate Professor, Occupational Therapy

Ocean Waves Essay Example

• Pages: 2 (376 words)
• Published: March 13, 2017
• Type: Essay

A wave is a periodic disturbance in space and time, possibly transferring energy to or through a space-time region. Have you ever ridden a wave in the ocean? Ocean waves travel on the surface of the water. You can see them and you can feel them. As you swim through the water, you can even make your own waves. The winds cause waves on the surface of the ocean (and on lakes). The wind transfers some of its energy to the water, through friction between the air molecules and the water molecules. Stronger winds (like storm surges) cause larger waves.

Many things can create waves on the ocean some of those things are as wind, earthquakes, the current, etc. Also the sun and moon’s gravitational pull controls the tide levels. Tides make the water go up and down, whereas the current in the w

ater makes the water move horizontally. Waves of water do not move horizontally, they only move up and down. Large waves travel faster than smaller ones. There are two attributes used to measure open ocean waves: Height and Period. Wave height is the distance from a wave's trough to its crest, amplitude.

Wave period is the amount of time in seconds it takes from the moment one wave crest passes a fixed point until a second wave crest passes that same point. In addition, undersea earthquakes or other sharp motions in the seafloor can sometimes generate enormous waves, called tsunamis that can devastate entire coastlines. Also, regular patterns of smooth, rounded waves in the open ocean are called swells. Swells are defined as mature undulations of water in the open ocean after wave energy

has left the wave generating region.

Like other waves, swells can range in size from small ripples to large, flat-crested waves. In conclusion, ocean waves have a significant impact on the shape of the Earth’s coastlines. Generally, they straighten coastlines. They are mostly formed by wind. An ocean wave can travel more than a thousand miles before striking the land. The wave size can vary from a tiny ripple to a large tsunami. A wave has a large amount of energy and momentum but the individual water particles of a wave barely show any forward motion.

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13.1 Types of Waves

Section learning objectives.

By the end of this section, you will be able to do the following:

• Define mechanical waves and medium, and relate the two
• Distinguish a pulse wave from a periodic wave
• Distinguish a longitudinal wave from a transverse wave and give examples of such waves

Teacher Support

The learning objectives in this section will help your students master the following standards:

• (A) examine and describe oscillatory motion and wave propagation in various types of media.

Section Key Terms

Mechanical waves.

What do we mean when we say something is a wave? A wave is a disturbance that travels or propagates from the place where it was created. Waves transfer energy from one place to another, but they do not necessarily transfer any mass. Light, sound, and waves in the ocean are common examples of waves. Sound and water waves are mechanical waves ; meaning, they require a medium to travel through. The medium may be a solid, a liquid, or a gas, and the speed of the wave depends on the material properties of the medium through which it is traveling. However, light is not a mechanical wave; it can travel through a vacuum such as the empty parts of outer space.

A familiar wave that you can easily imagine is the water wave. For water waves, the disturbance is in the surface of the water, an example of which is the disturbance created by a rock thrown into a pond or by a swimmer splashing the water surface repeatedly. For sound waves, the disturbance is caused by a change in air pressure, an example of which is when the oscillating cone inside a speaker creates a disturbance. For earthquakes, there are several types of disturbances, which include the disturbance of Earth’s surface itself and the pressure disturbances under the surface. Even radio waves are most easily understood using an analogy with water waves. Because water waves are common and visible, visualizing water waves may help you in studying other types of waves, especially those that are not visible.

Water waves have characteristics common to all waves, such as amplitude , period , frequency , and energy , which we will discuss in the next section.

Misconception Alert

Many people think that water waves push water from one direction to another. In reality, however, the particles of water tend to stay in one location only, except for moving up and down due to the energy in the wave. The energy moves forward through the water, but the water particles stay in one place. If you feel yourself being pushed in an ocean, what you feel is the energy of the wave, not the rush of water. If you put a cork in water that has waves, you will see that the water mostly moves it up and down.

[BL] [OL] [AL] Ask students to give examples of mechanical and nonmechanical waves.

Pulse Waves and Periodic Waves

If you drop a pebble into the water, only a few waves may be generated before the disturbance dies down, whereas in a wave pool, the waves are continuous. A pulse wave is a sudden disturbance in which only one wave or a few waves are generated, such as in the example of the pebble. Thunder and explosions also create pulse waves. A periodic wave repeats the same oscillation for several cycles, such as in the case of the wave pool, and is associated with simple harmonic motion. Each particle in the medium experiences simple harmonic motion in periodic waves by moving back and forth periodically through the same positions.

[BL] Any kind of wave, whether mechanical or nonmechanical, or transverse or longitudinal, can be in the form of a pulse wave or a periodic wave.

Consider the simplified water wave in Figure 13.2 . This wave is an up-and-down disturbance of the water surface, characterized by a sine wave pattern. The uppermost position is called the crest and the lowest is the trough . It causes a seagull to move up and down in simple harmonic motion as the wave crests and troughs pass under the bird.

Longitudinal Waves and Transverse Waves

Mechanical waves are categorized by their type of motion and fall into any of two categories: transverse or longitudinal. Note that both transverse and longitudinal waves can be periodic. A transverse wave propagates so that the disturbance is perpendicular to the direction of propagation. An example of a transverse wave is shown in Figure 13.3 , where a woman moves a toy spring up and down, generating waves that propagate away from herself in the horizontal direction while disturbing the toy spring in the vertical direction.

In contrast, in a longitudinal wave , the disturbance is parallel to the direction of propagation. Figure 13.4 shows an example of a longitudinal wave, where the woman now creates a disturbance in the horizontal direction—which is the same direction as the wave propagation—by stretching and then compressing the toy spring.

Tips For Success

Longitudinal waves are sometimes called compression waves or compressional waves , and transverse waves are sometimes called shear waves .

Teacher Demonstration

Transverse and longitudinal waves may be demonstrated in the class using a spring or a toy spring, as shown in the figures.

Waves may be transverse, longitudinal, or a combination of the two . The waves on the strings of musical instruments are transverse (as shown in Figure 13.5 ), and so are electromagnetic waves, such as visible light. Sound waves in air and water are longitudinal. Their disturbances are periodic variations in pressure that are transmitted in fluids.

Sound in solids can be both longitudinal and transverse. Essentially, water waves are also a combination of transverse and longitudinal components, although the simplified water wave illustrated in Figure 13.2 does not show the longitudinal motion of the bird.

Earthquake waves under Earth’s surface have both longitudinal and transverse components as well. The longitudinal waves in an earthquake are called pressure or P-waves, and the transverse waves are called shear or S-waves. These components have important individual characteristics; for example, they propagate at different speeds. Earthquakes also have surface waves that are similar to surface waves on water.

Energy propagates differently in transverse and longitudinal waves. It is important to know the type of the wave in which energy is propagating to understand how it may affect the materials around it.

Watch Physics

Introduction to waves.

This video explains wave propagation in terms of momentum using an example of a wave moving along a rope. It also covers the differences between transverse and longitudinal waves, and between pulse and periodic waves.

• After a compression wave, some molecules move forward temporarily.
• After a compression wave, some molecules move backward temporarily.
• After a compression wave, some molecules move upward temporarily.
• After a compression wave, some molecules move downward temporarily.

Fun In Physics

The physics of surfing.

Many people enjoy surfing in the ocean. For some surfers, the bigger the wave, the better. In one area off the coast of central California, waves can reach heights of up to 50 feet in certain times of the year ( Figure 13.6 ).

How do waves reach such extreme heights? Other than unusual causes, such as when earthquakes produce tsunami waves, most huge waves are caused simply by interactions between the wind and the surface of the water. The wind pushes up against the surface of the water and transfers energy to the water in the process. The stronger the wind, the more energy transferred. As waves start to form, a larger surface area becomes in contact with the wind, and even more energy is transferred from the wind to the water, thus creating higher waves. Intense storms create the fastest winds, kicking up massive waves that travel out from the origin of the storm. Longer-lasting storms and those storms that affect a larger area of the ocean create the biggest waves since they transfer more energy. The cycle of the tides from the Moon’s gravitational pull also plays a small role in creating waves.

Actual ocean waves are more complicated than the idealized model of the simple transverse wave with a perfect sinusoidal shape. Ocean waves are examples of orbital progressive waves , where water particles at the surface follow a circular path from the crest to the trough of the passing wave, then cycle back again to their original position. This cycle repeats with each passing wave.

As waves reach shore, the water depth decreases and the energy of the wave is compressed into a smaller volume. This creates higher waves—an effect known as shoaling .

Since the water particles along the surface move from the crest to the trough, surfers hitch a ride on the cascading water, gliding along the surface. If ocean waves work exactly like the idealized transverse waves, surfing would be much less exciting as it would simply involve standing on a board that bobs up and down in place, just like the seagull in the previous figure.

Additional information and illustrations about the scientific principles behind surfing can be found in the “Using Science to Surf Better!” video.

• The surfer would move side-to-side/back-and-forth vertically with no horizontal motion.
• The surfer would forward and backward horizontally with no vertical motion.

Check Your Understanding

Use these questions to assess students’ achievement of the section’s Learning Objectives. If students are struggling with a specific objective, these questions will help identify such objective and direct them to the relevant content.

• A wave is a force that propagates from the place where it was created.
• A wave is a disturbance that propagates from the place where it was created.
• A wave is matter that provides volume to an object.
• A wave is matter that provides mass to an object.
• No, electromagnetic waves do not require any medium to propagate.
• No, mechanical waves do not require any medium to propagate.
• Yes, both mechanical and electromagnetic waves require a medium to propagate.
• Yes, all transverse waves require a medium to travel.
• A pulse wave is a sudden disturbance with only one wave generated.
• A pulse wave is a sudden disturbance with only one or a few waves generated.
• A pulse wave is a gradual disturbance with only one or a few waves generated.
• A pulse wave is a gradual disturbance with only one wave generated.

What are the categories of mechanical waves based on the type of motion?

• Both transverse and longitudinal waves
• Only longitudinal waves
• Only transverse waves
• Only surface waves

In which direction do the particles of the medium oscillate in a transverse wave?

• Perpendicular to the direction of propagation of the transverse wave
• Parallel to the direction of propagation of the transverse wave

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Home — Essay Samples — Environment — Earth & Nature — Ocean

Essays on Ocean

Ocean essay topics for college students as college students, choosing the right essay topic is crucial to the success of your assignment. it's important to select a topic that not only interests you but also allows for creativity and critical thinking. this page serves as a resource to help you explore ... read more ocean essay topics for college students as college students, choosing the right essay topic is crucial to the success of your assignment. it's important to select a topic that not only interests you but also allows for creativity and critical thinking. this page serves as a resource to help you explore various types of essays and provides a wide range of ocean-related topics to inspire your writing. essay types and topics, argumentative.

• The Impact of Plastic Pollution on Ocean Ecosystems
• Government Policies to Protect Marine Life

Compare and Contrast

• Differences in Marine Biodiversity: Coral Reefs vs. Deep Sea
• Human Impact on Oceans: Past vs. Present

Descriptive

• A Day in the Life of a Marine Biologist
• The Beauty of Underwater Landscapes
• Advocating for Sustainable Fishing Practices
• The Importance of Marine Conservation
• My First Scuba Diving Experience
• An Encounter with Marine Wildlife

Paragraph Examples

An argumentative essay on the impact of plastic pollution on ocean ecosystems would begin with an that highlights the severity of the issue and presents the central question of how it can be addressed. The thesis statement could explicitly state the need for immediate action to protect marine life.

In the of a persuasive essay advocating for sustainable fishing practices, the key points discussed would be summarized, emphasizing the necessity of responsible fishing and encouraging readers to support sustainable initiatives. A call to action could be included, urging individuals to make conscious choices to protect our oceans.

Engagement and Creativity

Essay writing is an opportunity for you to explore your interests and develop critical thinking skills. Choose a topic that excites you and allows for creativity in your writing. Engage with the subject matter and make it meaningful to you and your readers.

Educational Value

Each type of essay offers unique educational value. Argumentative essays develop analytical thinking, compare and contrast essays hone your ability to analyze differences and similarities, descriptive essays enhance your descriptive abilities, persuasive essays strengthen your persuasive writing skills, and narrative essays allow you to practice storytelling techniques.

Protecting Marine Life and Coastal Ecosystems

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A Study on The Purpose of Marine Biology and The Effect of The Ocean Phenomena on Aquatic Animals

Some of the strangest and most elusive creatures on earth, understanding public perception of sea-level rise, ocean in crisis: climate change, invasive species, overfishing, ocean acidification and warming alter skeletal mineralization, the biography of jacques-yves cousteau, the actions p.u.f.f will be taking to clean the oceans, review on the ocean current energy, tsunamis in the pacific ocean and indonesia, barramundi: a part of the sea perch family, best vacations ever in funafuti, analysis of what an island is, la nina and its effects on the environment, microsoft sank a data center in the ocean, marine ornamental sector in sri lanka, an investigation into the bermuda triangle hidden secrets, ocean acidification: solutions to the grave environmental concern, ocean acidification: the silent threat to marine ecosystems, the wonder and importance of the ocean: a comprehensive overview, the significance and impact of oceanic exploration, relevant topics.

• Biodiversity
• Climate Change
• Fast Fashion
• Natural Disasters
• Ocean Pollution

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Essays on Ocean WAVES

2 samples on this topic

Crafting tons of Ocean WAVES papers is an inherent part of modern studying, be it in high-school, college, or university. If you can do that single-handedly, that's just awesome; yet, other learners might not be that fortunate, as Ocean WAVES writing can be quite challenging. The catalog of free sample Ocean WAVES papers presented below was set up in order to help embattled learners rise up to the challenge.

On the one hand, Ocean WAVES essays we present here precisely demonstrate how a really exceptional academic paper should be developed. On the other hand, upon your demand and for a reasonable cost, a professional essay helper with the relevant academic experience can put together a high-quality paper model on Ocean WAVES from scratch.

Why do I love the Ocean? Because it connects me to the people I love. #ThinkOcean

Many people say there are a million reasons to love the Ocean. As someone who’s spent their entire life by the sea, I can easily see how that could be true. The Ocean has a way of enchanting us, capturing our imagination and intriguing us with mysteries of the unexplored. As a child, the Ocean meant hours of fun at the beach with my family, exploring the rockpools, jumping through the waves with our family dog, and attempting to balance as many people as possible on some sort of floatation device without toppling over into the water! Happy memories like those mean that for me, the Ocean provides a sense of nostalgia and a feeling of belonging and home.

Spending so much time around the water made me want to learn more about the marine environment and the animals that live there. Finding out about the diversity of marine life, the importance of the Ocean for the health of the entire planet, and that there is so much more out there still to be discovered fascinated me. The more I learnt, the more reasons I discovered to love the Ocean.

But for me, the main reason doesn’t involve the amazing animals, the breath-taking scenery, or even the feeling of child-like freedom that comes from gliding through the water. Why do I love the Ocean? Because it connects me to the people I love.

I’ve been lucky enough to travel all over the world and meet some amazing people along the way. In 2015, I spent a year studying abroad in South Carolina. I lived in a coastal town 3,000 miles away from my home in Plymouth. As a 20 year old, with no friends or family in the area, it would’ve been easy to feel isolated and distant – but I never did. I found great comfort knowing that the Ocean I was looking at every day was the same that my family and friends were experiencing at home. It made me feel closer to them.

Four years later, and back in Plymouth, I still feel the same way. With loved ones all over the world, including my fiancé who currently lives in the USA, I’m grateful for that feeling of global connectedness, the feeling of closeness despite physical distance. My partner might not live by the sea, but the Ocean still connects us. It doesn’t matter who you are or where you live, you experience the water of the Ocean every day. All water is connected; rivers, lakes, the sea – it’s all the same water, cycling around the Earth, connecting us all. Many people say there are a million reasons to love the Ocean, but to me, there are 7.7 billion.

Emily Carter

#thinkocean.

Essay @ Wave Energy | Sources | Ocean Energy | Energy Management

Are you looking for an essay on ‘Wave Energy’? Find paragraphs, long and short essays on ‘Wave Energy’ especially written for school and college students.

Essay on Wave Energy

Essay Contents:

• Essay on the Advantages and Disadvantages of Wave Energy

Essay # 1. Introduction to Wave Energy :

Wave energy comes from the interaction between the winds and surfaces of oceans. The energy available varies with the size and frequency of waves. It is estimated that about 50 kW of power is available for every metre width of true wave front.

Ocean wave energy is due to the periodic to-and-fro, up-and-down motion of water particles in the form of progressive waves. The period of ocean waves is the order of a few seconds. Ocean waves are superimposed on ocean water. Ocean water surface level varies with ocean tidal cycle.

Ocean waves possess potential energy (P.E.) and kinetic energy (K.E.). The ocean waves originate in different parts of the ocean surface due to the surface winds. The waves travel in the direction of the wind to the shore. The waves may be due to the local winds or the planetary winds. The height of the waves depends upon the wind velocities, depth of the ocean, contour of the shore etc.

The typical ranges of ocean waves are:

(i) Wind height = 2 x amplitude = 0.2 m to 4 m

(ii) Wave period = 4 s to 12 s.

Very dangerous and destructive waves occur during storms and gusts. They may reach heights of 10 m and may topple ships and damage the ocean energy plants.

Wave energy when active is very concentrated therefore wave energy conversion into useful energy can be carried out at high power densities. A large variety of devices (e.g. hydraulic accumulator wave machine; high-level reservoir machine; Dolphin-type wave-power machine; Dam-Atoll wave machine) have been developed for harnessing of energy but these are complicated and fragile in face of gigantic power of ocean storms.

Essay # 2. Factors Affecting Wave Energy :

Wave energy is affected by the following three major factors:

1. Wind Speed:

With the increase in wind speed, there is an increase in wind energy.

i. The amplitude of the waves depends on wind speed.

ii. During storms and gusts, big ocean waves occur, which prove highly detrimental even to ships.

2. Effective Pitch Value:

It is the uninterrupted distance on the ocean over which the wind can below before reaching the point of reference. The larger the distance, the higher the wave energy. This distance may vary from 5 km to 45 km.

3. Depth of Ocean Water:

The greater the depth of ocean water the higher the wave velocity. Very large energy fluxes are available in deep ocean waves.

Essay # 3. Parameters of Ocean Waves :

A progressive wave (travelling wave) is a wave whose crest line moves in the direction of propagation of wave.

The important parameters and their notations are:

Essay # 4. Energy and Power from Waves :

Fig. 8.14 shows a two-dimensional progressive wave, represented by the sinusoidal simple harmonic wave shown at time, x = 0, and at time x. Although the sea waves are highly irregular yet, such a wave is assumed to be of sinusoidal harmonic wave shape for the purpose of mathematical analysis. The wave is moving in the direction of x-axis.

Consider a point L (x, y) on the wave surface with an element of thickness dx along the x-axis with a coordinate y on the y-axis.

This sine wave may be expressed by the following relation:

i. The waves generated in deep ocean by distant storms are very high and dangerous, called swells. These have longer wavelengths.

ii. The waves in shallow waters and by local winds are not high and have shorter wavelengths.

Essay # 6. Potential of Wave Energy :

Collection of Wave Data:

The wave data is collected (by Institutes of Oceanography) by measuring the parameters of real ocean waves over a period of 1 to 3 years at selected locations on shore and high oceans.

i. The measuring instruments (e.g. accelerometer, integrator, recorder etc.) are mounted on a ship or a buoy. The vertical displacement and vertical acceleration of the ship or the buoy are measured and recorded.

ii. The data is scanned at an internal of every 3 hours over a period of about 20 minutes with duration of 0.5 second per measurement.

iii. The data is telemetered to the observatory on the shore by means of radio communication channels. The data is recorded and analysed.

From the analysis of wave data the following characteristics are determined:

1. The significant height of the wave.

2. The period of significant wave.

3. The energy period.

4. The energy density.

5. The power density.

6. The power per unit width.

From these characteristics of ocean waves, a wave power plant in planned.

These days the computer-based methods are used for the analysis of wave data. Such analysis of wave data helps to estimate the potential of maximum, minimum and mean power at desired locations.

Wave Energy Potential of Indian Coast:

India has ample wave energy potential. Some data relating to ocean wave energy, for different locations obtained through measurements, are given in the tables 8.2, 8.3 and 8.4 respectively.

Essay # 7. Wave Energy Conversion :

The wave energy is in the form of motion of water particles.

The potential energy and kinetic energy in water are converted to mechanical energy in the ‘wave machine’ (wave energy converter) in the following two ways:

1. Wave machine drives gears and electrical generator.

2. Wave machine drives air compressor or hydraulic pump to store energy in tanks, drive another machine for energy conversion.

The former method/route is preferred as the energy can be transmitted to the shore.

Essay # 8. Wave Power Development :

i. The history of wave machines begins with the first patent filed in parts in 1799 by Girard. The proposed plant envisaged a floating moored ship, connected to a mechanism and a pump mounted on the shore by means of a long rod. The ship oscillated vertically and the horizontal movement was prevented by mooring. The oscillating shaft motion was converted to rotary motion by mechanism at the shore; the mechanism drove the pumps.

ii. During 1890s the wave phenomenon was analysed by physicists and oceanographers.

iii. During 1910 to 1950, small prototype wave machines of various types were designed on experimental basis in USA, UK, Japan, Canada.

iv. During 1959, a 5 MW pumped storage system was built. It was abandoned in 1965 as the oil prices were low. The scheme was reviewed during 1976 and a 20 MW scheme was proposed.

v. After 1973 oil price rise, several prototype plants of 100 to 500 kW were developed. Wave power engines of small rating (<500 kW) are commercially marketed by Japan for installing on lighthouses, buoys and remote Islands etc.

Large pumped storage schemes operated by hydro-turbine pumps by wave energy were commercially successful in Mauritius (1976) for large base load power plant. Such schemes require suitable geographical contours for installing hydro-electric plants and reservoirs.

Wave Power Development in India:

The National Institute of Oceanography Goa has divided the Indian coastline into six zones, namely A, B, C, D, E, and F (Fig. 8.21), to expedite and identify high wave energy areas suitable for development of power.

The variation (estimated power in kW/m) in wave regime in different zones during different months is given in the table 8.5.

On the estimates of the distribution of wave energy (kW/m) of sea frontage, the potential is seen to vary from 39 kW on the West coast to 15 kW on the East coast. On the basis of an average estimated wave power potential of 15 kW/m and total coastline of about 6000 m the total power potential is of the order of 90,000 MW, which is an enormous source of renewable energy which can be harnessed commercially.

Essay # 9. Environmental Impacts of Wave Power :

The “Wave power” is essentially non-polluting. No appreciable environmental effects are for seen from island floating wave power devices.

i. Onshore wave energy installations may change visual landscape and degrade scenic ocean front views. It may also cause disturbance to marine life including changes in distribution and types of life near the shore.

ii. There is possible threat to navigation from collision due to low profile floating wave devices. It would usually be both possible and necessary to avoid hazards to, or from, marine traffic by judicious planning and by the provision of navigation aids. “Tidal energy” is a renewable source of energy, which does not result in emission of gases responsible for global warming or acid rain associated with use of fossil fuels.

iii. Changing tidal flow by damming a bay or estuary could, however, result in negative impacts on aquatic and shoreline ecosystem, as well as navigation and recreation.

Studies have shown that the environment impact at each site is different, and depends amply upon local geography.

Essay # 10. Advantages and Disadvantages of Wave Energy :

Following are the advantages and disadvantages of wave energy:

Advantages of Wave Energy:

1. It is relatively pollution free.

2. It is a free and renewable energy source.

3. After removal of power, the waves are in placed state.

4. Wave-power devices do not require large land masses.

5. Whenever there is a large wave activity, a string of devices have to be used. The system not only produces electricity but also protects coast lines from the destructive action of large waves, minimises erosion and help create artificial harbour.

Disadvantages of Wave Energy:

1. Lack of dependability.

2. Relative scarcity of accessible sites of large wave activity.

3. The construction of conversion devices is relatively complicated.

4. The devices have to withstand enormous power of stormy seas.

5. There are unfavourable economic factors such as large capital investment and costs of repair, replacement and maintenance.

Problems Associated with Wave Energy Collection:

The collection of wave energy entails the following problems:

1. The variation of frequency and amplitude makes it an unsteady source.

2. Devices, installed to collect and to transfer wave energy from far off oceans, will have to withstand adverse weather conditions.

Until now no major development programme for taming wave energy has been carried but successfully by any country. Small devices are available, however, and are in limited use as power supplies for buoys and navigational aids. From the engineering development point of view, wave energy development is not nearly as far long as wind and tidal energy.

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