fashion marketing research paper

Fashion Marketing in Emerging Economies: An Introduction

• First Online: 07 December 2022

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• Frederica Brooksworth 6 ,
• Emmanuel Mogaji 7 &
• Genevieve Bosah 8  

Part of the book series: Palgrave Studies of Marketing in Emerging Economies ((PSMEE))

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The fashion industry is increasing in emerging markets. Marketing strategies, tools and technologies have also evolved. There is a growing demand for additional research, information, recommendations, insight from practitioners, entrepreneurs, students and academics. This chapter provides an overview of the book on fashion marketing in emerging economies. It documents a portfolio of sixteen published papers from twenty-seven authors who have presented their contributions to theories, knowledge and discussions around fashion marketing in developing markets. This chapter provides an understanding of effective marketing strategies employed by multinational fashion corporations within emerging markets. This academic research shines the light on the relatively neglected area of marketing activities happening in emerging markets and the growth of emerging economies in their entirety. This book provides timely information for managers and policymakers on the growing areas of fashion such as sustainability, luxury, digitalisation, trends and psychology.

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Brooksworth, F., Mogaji, E., Bosah, G. (2023). Fashion Marketing in Emerging Economies: An Introduction. In: Brooksworth, F., Mogaji, E., Bosah, G. (eds) Fashion Marketing in Emerging Economies Volume I. Palgrave Studies of Marketing in Emerging Economies. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-07326-7_1

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Consumer values, online purchase behaviour and the fashion industry: an emerging market context

PSU Research Review

ISSN : 2399-1747

Article publication date: 21 September 2021

• Supplementary Material

This study examines consumer online purchase behaviour in the Nigerian fashion industry.

Design/methodology/approach

A cross-sectional study was conducted with a total useable sample size of 241 respondents contacted through on-site visitation. Descriptive and inferential statistics were used to test the influence of customer value on online purchase behaviour in the fashion industry.

Consumer values are categorised into terminal (happiness, love and satisfaction) and instrumental (time-saving, price-saving discount, service convenience and merchandise assortment) values. The findings show that both values have significant influence on online consumer purchase behaviour, while fashion consciousness moderates the relationship between consumer values and online purchase behaviour.

Practical implications

Online fashion retailers should focus on increasing the terminal and instrumental values of their products and making available goods that meet the needs of different generational cohorts in society.

Originality/value

Studies have examined various factors, for example, consumer values that are determinants of consumer online purchase in the fashion industry; however, there has been limited focus on the nature of fashion and online purchasing in emerging markets, particularly those in Sub-Saharan Africa.

• Customer values
• Online purchase behaviour
• Digital retailing
• Technology innovation

Adeola, O. , Moradeyo, A.A. , Muogboh, O. and Adisa, I. (2021), "Consumer values, online purchase behaviour and the fashion industry: an emerging market context", PSU Research Review , Vol. ahead-of-print No. ahead-of-print. https://doi.org/10.1108/PRR-04-2021-0019

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Copyright © 2021, Ogechi Adeola, Adenike Aderonke Moradeyo, Obinna Muogboh and Isaiah Adisa

Published in PSU Research Review . Published by Emerald Publishing Limited. This article is published under the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY 4.0) licence. Anyone may reproduce, distribute, translate and create derivative works of this article (for both commercial and non-commercial purposes), subject to full attribution to the original publication and authors. The full terms of this licence may be seen at http://creativecommons.org/licences/by/4.0/legalcode

Introduction

The fashion industry dates back to over a hundred thousand years, right from the availability and use of textiles by mankind ( Botti, 2019 ). The industry, over time, has added economic and material value to humanity, evolving with society, making it a very relevant aspect of human life and also a common area of research, particularly in this technology-driven world ( Bruce and Daly, 2006 ; Botti, 2019 ; Kilduff, 2005 ; Xue et al. , 2019 ). Globally, the fashion industry contributes about US$3000 bn, an estimated 2% of the world's gross domestic product (GDP) ( Botti, 2019 ). Today, technological revolution and the Internet have enabled the establishment of online fashion retail systems to displace aspects of the traditional store patronage ( Johnstone et al. , 2013 ; Kautish and Sharma, 2018 ; Pantano and Viassone, 2015 ).

The term “fashion” is a concept that is widely accepted by committees, class or groups of people and is directly affected by marketing factors, such as low predictability, high impulse purchase, short-life cycle and the high volatility of market demand ( Fernie and Sparks, 1998 ; Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010 ).

Digital retailing in the fashion industry has gained prominence, providing ample opportunities for marketers to reach out to different generational cohorts (i.e. generations X, Y and Z) ( Pentecost and Andrews, 2010 ). Generational cohort is a theoretical approach to understanding the diverse group of individuals in a society. The term is used to describe individuals who share similar political, social, cultural and economic events during their childhood ( Fernández-Durán, 2016 ). The most widely used categorisation is Gen X, Y and Z ( Sima, 2016 ). Individuals who fall into these classifications are considered to share similar behaviour, perceptions of reality, values and consumption patterns, which must be understood from a marketing standpoint ( Fernández-Durán, 2016 ; Liang and Xu, 2018 ; Mahmoud et al. , 2021 ; Sima, 2016 ; Tan et al. , 2019 ). For example, individuals in Gen X (1965–1981) are regarded as digital immigrants while Gen Y (1982–1999) and Gen Z (2000–2012) are regarded as digital natives ( Mahmoud et al. , 2021 ). To contextualise the distribution of consumers in the fashion market, this classification must be well understood.

Retail digitisation has changed the process of shopping for consumers and the process of selling for organisations in the fashion industry by providing convenient and affordable services ( Hagberg et al. , 2016 ; Kautish and Sharma, 2018 ; Renko and Druzijanic, 2014 ). Consumers' desire to shop for clothing online has, however, been hindered by challenges of “fit” and “size” of cloths ( Miell et al. , 2018 ). There have been several studies (e.g. Loker et al. , 2004 , 2008 ; Song and Ashdown, 2012 ; Kim and LaBat, 2013 ; Beck and Crié, 2018 ) that focused on providing solutions to the challenges that can impede the benefits of online fashion retailing for businesses, shoppers, and generally hinder the growth of the industry.

These challenges have negatively influenced consumers' perception of online purchases in the fashion industry, especially with clothing purchase. Digital “fit” and “sizing” technologies have been introduced to address this challenge and give customers the needed satisfaction in their online fashion purchases in developed nations ( Miell et al. , 2018 ). Online purchase is gaining prominence in Nigeria ( Aminu, 2013 ; Usman and Kumar, 2020 ), but the rate and pace of online fashion (apparel) purchase have been low despite having a large population of Internet users ( Falode et al. , 2016 ). Falode et al. , investigated online and offline shopping motivation of apparel consumers in Ibadan, Nigeria and found that consumers prefer offline purchase of apparel to online. This is quite worrying as Nigeria has an active online population which offers fashion organisations enormous opportunities ( Falode et al. , 2016 ). Hence, understanding the factors that will engender the consumer's online purchase in the fashion industry is sacrosanct to the sustainability of the online fashion space in Nigeria.

Extant studies have attempted to provide predictive direction regarding what influences consumers' online purchases in the fashion industry. For example, Schmidt et al. (2015) posit that what consumers see and hear online, influences their buying behaviour. Pentecost and Andrews (2010) established that gender influences the rate of purchase and that females purchase more items in the fashion industry than their male counterparts. Pentecost and Andrews also found that Gen Y consumers have higher purchase frequency and impulse buying than other generational cohorts. Kautish and Sharma (2018) examined consumer values, fashion consciousness and behavioural intentions in the online fashion retail sector and found a significant relationship between consumer values, fashion consciousness and behavioural intention of the consumers in India. Their study was conducted to highlight the basic factors that influence consumer purchase and patronage of online retailing in the country's fashion industry. The authors identified three variables that determine the consumer's online behaviour: consumer values, fashion consciousness and behavioural intentions.

Generally, countries in Africa are known for their distinct socio-cultural values, which influence their fashion behaviour ( Aminu, 2013 ; Falode et al. , 2016 ). The role of socio-cultural values on consumer purchase behaviour has also been explored (see Agnihotri and Bhattacharya, 2019 ; Ansari, 2018 ; Craig and Douglas, 2006 ; Kacen and Lee, 2002 ; Koon et al. , 2020 ; Nwankwo et al. , 2014 ; Pepper et al. , 2009 ; Tendai and Crispen, 2009 ); however, there is a dearth of studies on consumer online purchase behaviour, in the fashion industry, with reference to sub-Saharan Africa. A key country in this region is Nigeria, known for its multi-ethnicity and large population. The country's median age is 18.4 years, which indicates the propensity of a technology-driven youthful population ( Varrella, 2020 ). With the challenge of “fit” and “size” and patronage of online fashion space in Nigeria ( Falode et al. , 2016 ; Ogbuji and Udom, 2018 ), this study assesses consumer purchase behaviour in online fashion retailing of an emerging market, particularly in a technology-driven society. Following Kautish and Sharma's (2018) study, we adopt the variables – values, fashion consciousness and behavioural intention to purchase – as predictors of online consumer purchase behaviour in the Nigerian fashion industry.

Theoretical framework

Theory of planned behaviour.

This paper adopts the theory of planned behaviour (TPB) by Azjen (1985 , 1991 ) to explain the purchase and patronage of online fashion retailing. Azjen (1991) asserts that an individual's behaviour is not spontaneous but rather is influenced and determined by various factors, such as intention, social norm and perceived control over certain phenomena. TPB is an extension of the theory of reasoned action (TRA) ( Azjen and Fishbein, 1980 ; George, 2004 ). The TRA proposed that intention is crucial in exhibiting certain behaviours, and it is measured by attitude and subjective norms ( Hagger, 2019 ). The theory focused on explaining behaviours within the individual's control, and the scope did not capture explanations on why individuals are not in total control of some of their behaviours, and this led to TPB. Azjen extended TRA with the propositions of the TPB and included the construct of perceived behavioural control to explain behaviours beyond the control of the individual ( Hagger, 2019 ).

According to George (2004) , the attitude towards a target behaviour and the subjective norms surrounding it determine intention. Several studies have applied the assumptions of TPB to purchase behaviour ( Arora and Sahney, 2018 ; Conner, 2020 ; George, 2004 ; Verma and Chandra, 2018 ) and also in studies on Internet purchasing behaviour (i.e. Battacherjee, 2000 ; George, 2002 , 2004 ; Jarvenpaa and Todd, 1997a , b ; Khalifa and Limayem, 2003 ; Limayem et al. , 2000 ; Pavlou, 2002 ; Song and Zahedi, 2001 ; Singh and Srivastava, 2019 ; Suh and Han, 2003 ; Tan and Teo, 2000 ; Verma and Chandra, 2018 ). The three antecedents of online-purchasing behaviour are measured and defined on the premise of TPB ( Ham et al. , 2015 ). These include attitude and intention (Do I want to do that?), subjective norms (Do others want me to do that?) and perceived control (Do I have the necessary ability to do that?).

Azjen (1991) proposes that intention is determined by an individual's attitude, subjective norms and perceived behavioural control. Attitude can either be positive or negative, and it is influenced by an individual's beliefs, which, in turn, inform the norms. Azjen (1991) adds that an individual's possession of resources and opportunities needed to engage in the behaviour would influence whether the individual will exhibit such behaviour. In other words, it is not sufficient to have intentions to purchase; individuals must also have the ability to purchase the product. For example, two individuals might have the same level of intention and belief in purchasing a particular product, but the one with the resources to purchase the product is more likely to make the purchase decision.

In the context of this study, behaviour is determined by intentions and beliefs (social norms) that align with the individual's values. Individuals will act in calculative ways, such that decisions are made based on the most favourable outcome. This paper hypothesises that consumers' values (terminal and instrumental values) and consumers' fashion consciousness are factors that determine their online purchases in the fashion industry. This implies that in an emerging market, despite the challenges of fit and size of apparels bought online ( Kaushik et al. , 2020 ), consumers' instrumental values, terminal values and fashion consciousness will stimulate purchase using the same medium. TPB is, therefore, adopted to explain and predict consumer online purchase behaviour in the fashion industry and in an emerging market; this is premised on the tenets of the theory that consumers' values (instrumental, terminal) and fashion consciousness will determine consumers' purchase in the online fashion industry.

Technology and the fashion industry

The retail business is experiencing continuous changes due to the dynamics in taste, innovation and consumer behaviour in the market ( Kennedy et al. , 2019 ; Suzuki and Park, 2018 ; Tendai and Crispen, 2009 ). The fashion industry, which is one of the oldest industries in the history of mankind, has been very dynamic, evolving according to the tastes, trends and needs of society. Xue et al. (2019) emphasise that retailers must understand how to use technology to facilitate consumer purchase behaviour in local and global markets of this era. Xue et al. (2019) project that proper investment in electronic retailing would enhance the business performance of retailers, sustain their competitive advantage and attract a larger population to the electronic market, if the purchase behaviours of consumers within the markets are understood. The fashion industry has evolved and imbibed the online retailing system to attract the attention of the majority in the market. As society is becoming more technology-driven, the fashion industry must position itself in line with this trend; however, some studies show that challenges emanating from online fashion commodities, like apparels, have negatively affected rather than boost retail sales ( Bonetti et al. , 2018 ; Hope-Allwood, 2016 ; Xue et al. , 2019 ).

Therefore, having a technology-driven retail strategy without understanding or paying attention to factors that influence consumer purchase behaviour will result in negative sales outcome, for consumers are driven by social and psychological factors in their purchase intention. Niemeier et al. (2013) as well as Xue et al. (2019) found hedonic factors, convenience (friendly-user interface and easy process) and entertainment as determinants of consumers' purchase of virtual products. Contributing to the array of knowledge on consumer purchase of virtual products, consumer values, fashion consciousness and behavioural intention are tested in this study.

Consumer values, fashion consciousness and behavioural intentions in the online fashion retail sector

Instrumental value influences consumer online purchase behaviour in emerging markets.

Terminal values influence consumer online purchase behaviours in an emerging market

Fashion consciousness influences consumer online purchase behaviour in the fashion industry

The relationship between consumer values (terminal and instrumental) and consumer online purchase behaviour is moderated by consumers' fashion consciousness

Research sample

We employed a cross-sectional design and surveyed 282 individuals through convenience sampling. The data collection method yielded a useable total of 241 survey reports through onsite visitation, representing a response rate of 88.5%, which is considered adequate. The remaining 41 survey reports were rejected due to incomplete information. The survey questionnaire contained close-ended questions and was administered to the respondents in August 2019. The study was conducted in an environment comprising both students and the working class, where a major public university in Lagos, Nigeria, is situated. The demographic characteristics of respondents are as follows: 52.3% of the respondents are students; 13.3% are unemployed; 2.90% are self-employed and the remaining 31.5% constitute other professions ( Table 1 ). Most of the respondents in the study fall within Generation Y (21–30 years, 45.6%; 31–40 years, 21%) and Z (Below 20, 28%) category. The descriptive statistics and correlation of the constructs are provided in Table 2 .

To ensure high content validity, all the measurement scales used for the consumer values, fashion consciousness and online consumer purchase behaviour were adopted from extant literature ( Kautish and Sharma, 2018 ). The survey asked respondents to indicate on a 7-point Likert scale, ranging from 1 = “strongly disagree” through to 7 = “strongly agree”, the extent to which each statement applied to them.

Control variables

We controlled for four variables in the analyses to account for other factors that were not captured in the research but could affect customer online purchase behaviour in Nigeria. These control variables include age of respondent, educational qualification, monthly income and online purchase frequency.

Scale validity and reliability

The Cronbach alpha reliability test ( α ), which shows internal consistency for each item that makes up a construct is as follows: consumer value has α value of 0.70; fashion consciousness has α value of 0.72 and consumer online purchase behaviour has α value of 0.80. These Cronbach alpha values are all above 0.7, which is the recommended minimum acceptable level ( Hair et al. , 1998 ). Confirmatory factor analyses (CFAs) of the adopted measures which confirm the discriminant validity are as follows: normed chi-square value ( χ 2  = 537.48; df = 129), the fit indices Non-Normed Fit Index (NNFI) = 0.70, Normed Fit Index (NFI) = 0.70, Goodness of Fit (GFI) = 0.80, Comparative Fit Index (CFI) = 0.74, p -value = 0.00000 and Root Mean Square Error (RMSEA) = 0.115. The CFA results confirmed the discriminant validity of the constructs. Table 2 shows the means, standard deviations and correlations of the variables. The ( χ 2 /df) value for the model is 4.2, which is within the acceptable range of 2–5 ( MacCallum et al. , 1999 ; Marsh et al. , 1988 , 1998 ; Kautish and Sharma, 2018 ).

Analysis and results

The following regression model was used to estimate the consumer online purchase behaviour influence of the two independent constructs: consumer value and fashion consciousness: Y i = β 0 + β 1 C V + β 2 F C + β 3 C V F C + e i

The subscript i denotes each respondent ( i  = 1,…, 241). Y is the dependent variable (Consumer online purchase behaviour). CV represents the vector for the variants, terminal and instrumental values, FC represents the vector for fashion consciousness, CVFC represents the vector for the moderating effects and e i is the error term. β 1 – β 3 represent the parameters of the coefficients. Figure 1 shows the research model.

Multiple regression analysis was carried out using the hierarchical method ( Cohen and Cohen, 1983 ). In this case, the independent variables were sequentially introduced, one after the other. The hierarchical regression analysis was carried out using six separate multiple regression analyses, as shown in Table 3 . In the first regression model, all the control variables were included. In the second regression model, consumer terminal value was regressed on the consumer online purchase behaviour and the control variables. In the third regression model, the instrumental value was regressed on the consumer online purchase behaviour and the control variables. In the fourth regression model, consumer values (terminal and instrumental values) were regressed on the consumer online purchase behaviour and the control variables. Finally, the interaction terms and consumer values (terminal and instrumental values) were regressed on the consumer online purchase behaviour and the control variables.

Overall, the four hypotheses are supported, as indicated in Table 3 . From model 1, none of the control variables is significant. From model 2, the results show that terminal value is significantly positively related to consumer online purchase behaviour ( β  = 0.633 at p  < 0.01), thus, supporting H1 ; all the control variables are not significant. From model 3, the results show that instrumental value is significantly positively related to consumer online purchase behaviour ( β  = 0.451 at p  < 0.01), thus supporting H2 ; all the control variables are not significant. From model 4, the results show that fashion consciousness is significantly positively related to consumer online purchase behaviour ( β  = 0.413 at p  < 0.01), thus supporting H3 ; almost all the control variables are not significant, except the age of respondents, which is significant ( β  = −0.169 at p  < 0.05). From model 5, the results show that terminal value is significantly positively related to consumer online purchase behaviour ( β  = 0.048 at p  < 0.01), thus also supporting H1 . Instrumental value is significantly positively related to consumer online purchase behaviour ( β  = 0.219 at p  < 0.01), thus also supporting H2 .

Fashion consciousness is significantly and positively related to consumer online purchase behaviour ( β  = 0.142 at p  > 0.05), thus also supporting H3 . All the control variables are found to be insignificant. From model 6, the results show that the interaction term (terminal value × instrumental value × fashion consciousness) is significantly positively related to consumer online behaviour, thus supporting H4 . Instrumental value is not significant, whereas terminal value is significantly related to consumer online purchase behaviour. Fashion consciousness is not significantly related to consumer online purchase behaviour.

All the control variables are found to be insignificant. From model 6, the interaction between consumer value and fashion consciousness accounted for significantly more variance than just consumer value and fashion consciousness alone; R 2 change = 0.008, p  < 0.01, indicating that there is potentially significant moderation between consumer value and fashion consciousness on consumer online purchase behaviour. The Durbin–Watson ranges from 1.6–1.9, which are approximately 2, and shows no evidence of autocorrelation ( Gujarati, 2003 ). The overall statistical measures, such as ( R 2 , R , F and p -value) indicate the adequacy of the model (see Table 3 ).

Discussions and implication

The role of consumer values in influencing online purchase has been documented in the literature ( Limayem et al. , 2000 ; Nwankwom et al. , 2014 ; Kautish and Sharma, 2018 ). However, very few studies have examined the role of technological innovation in influencing customer value towards online purchase, especially as related to the fashion industry. Kautish and Sharma (2018) examined consumer values, fashion consciousness and behavioural intentions in India's online fashion retail sector and suggested that similar studies should be conducted in emerging economies with diverse cultures. This study, thus, fills this gap by examining consumer values and purchase in the fashion industry through technological platforms in emerging markets, like Nigeria.

Consumer values were grouped into instrumental and terminal values to illustrate the practical implications of the study. The first hypothesis examined the influence of instrumental value on consumer online purchase behaviour in an emerging market, and the result shows that there is a positive significant relationship between instrumental values and online purchase of fashion apparels. This implies that purchasing apparel online saves consumers' time, cost of purchase, convenience, discount in services received and it offers varieties of goods to choose and buy. In other words, key factors that attract and influence the purchase of fashion items online using technological innovation are the convenience, low cost, discount and variety of commodities offered by online stores. This result supports the theoretical proposition by Azjen (1991) that behaviours of individuals are influenced by calculative permutations on the cost and benefits of their actions. Consequently, intentions become actions when it is perceived that the action has more benefit than cost. This finding also supports the observations of Kautish and Sharma (2018) that instrumental values to be derived by consumers in the purchase of a commodity online will influence their purchase decision.

The second hypothesis on the influence of terminal values and consumer online purchase behaviour in an emerging market reveals a significant and positive relationship between terminal value and consumer online purchase behaviour. This implies that happiness, love and satisfaction are consumers experience when they purchase fashion apparels online. In addition, customers perceive a sense of freedom and comfort when they successfully make online purchases. This also supports the submission of Allen et al. (2002) as well as Kautish and Sharma (2018) that terminal value reward from online purchase of a product influences consumer purchase. Online stores, hence, must ensure that their products provide ease of purchase and are low cost and also that the apparels reflect the desires of the customers, such that they provide comfort, satisfaction and happiness when worn.

The third hypothesis examines the influence of fashion consciousness on consumer online purchase behaviour in the fashion industry, and the result shows a significant and positive relationship between fashion consciousness and purchase behaviours. This implies that students, professionals, the employed and unemployed in emerging markets like Nigeria, support and are mindful of fashion trends; the result also showed that students are more interested in fashion trends than the unemployed and self-employed; this result might be associated with the fact that Gen Y and Z consumers are the most represented in this study. This result supports the observations of Babin and James (2010) , Fernandes (2013) , Kautish and Sharma (2018) that fashion consciousness influences the decision to purchase apparels and other related fashion items online. Kautish and Sharma's (2018) submitted that Gen Y consumers have a higher purchase frequency and impulse buying than other generational cohorts. However, this study extends knowledge from the work of Kautish and Sharma (2018) , which was focused on students to show that it is not only this category of individuals who are fashion-conscious but also professionals, the self-employed and even the unemployed in emerging markets, like Nigeria.

The fourth hypothesis tested the moderation of customer values (terminal and instrumental) and online purchase behaviour by fashion consciousness, and the result shows that fashion consciousness moderates the extent to which consumers' values influence their purchase behaviour. A society with a high rate of fashion-conscious individuals will purchase fashion apparels online more than a society with less fashion-conscious people. In addition, it shows that an individual's consciousness for fashion plays a primary role in the online purchase of fashion apparels and other fashionable items.

Additional findings in the study reveal that terminal value has a greater influence on online consumer purchase of fashion apparel. This is indicated by its higher coefficient score (0.633) compared to the scores for the instrumental value (0.451) and fashion consciousness (0.413) (see Table 3 ). This shows that happiness, love, satisfaction, a sense of freedom and comfort derived from online purchase of fashion apparels influence customers' behaviour more than instrumental values (ease of purchase, cost, convenience, discount and product varieties). Interestingly, these findings do not support the observations of Kautish and Sharma (2018) in India, which indicated that instrumental value has a greater influence on consumer purchase. The reverse is the case in this study, as the terminal value reflects the highest coefficient among the two constructs. Nigerians in the study were more interested in the terminal value obtained from the purchase of fashion apparels online, as opposed to customers in India, which might be due to their social and cultural differences.

Implication for practice

The findings from this study have both business and technology-use implications. First, organisations and businesses in the fashion industry must continue to implement innovative and technological ideas on how to provide customers with the values that appeal to them from the online purchase of apparels as this has proven to be a key factor influencing customers' purchase. Consumers in this study are influenced by the convenience and time efficiency of purchase, cost-effectiveness, discount and availability of varieties; hence, managers, business owners and app developers for the fashion market must ensure that their services take into consideration all of these factors for online purchase to be continually stimulated.

Additionally, managers and app developers must understand the kind of apparels that conform to consumers' satisfaction and design, such apparels to meet this need, as this is also paramount to stimulate purchases. Consumers in the Nigerian fashion market are conscious of apparels that give them comfort, a sense of love, happiness and are trendy; therefore, online fashion retailers must have in stock apparels that possess these characteristics. In addition, the targeted audience should not be students or the younger generation alone, as this study has shown that the larger Nigerian populace is fashion conscious. Business owners should have apparels that cut across generations X, Y and Z; they should ensure that there are various offerings to capture different population classifications in the market, thereby meeting all needs. Businesses can focus more on generation Y and Z as they are the most populous in emerging markets and are more used to digital innovations. In spite of this, generation X must still be captured in their product offerings and designs.

The focus should be on increasing terminal values (happiness, love and satisfaction, a feeling of freedom and comfort) of fashion apparels purchased. Instrumental values (ease of purchase, cost, convenience, discount and product varieties) values are important to the Nigerian market; however, there is a preference for clothes that satisfy more terminal values.

Limitations and direction for future research

The study covered consumer values, fashion consciousness and online purchase in the fashion industry in an emerging market – Nigeria. This study is limited to the online fashion (apparel) market and did not take into consideration other viable sectors. Hence, future studies can fill this gap. Other markets, for instance, electronics and automobiles, can be examined in future studies to extend the knowledge of online purchasing and the impact of technological innovations.

Through the lens of a cross-sectional methodology and quantitative techniques, convenience sampling was used to select respondents from a mixed population of students, working-class professionals, the self-employed and unemployed within a multi-cultural and industrial environment, Lagos.

Future studies can consider using random sampling techniques, triangulate their methods and expand the geographical coverage of the sample as non-attention to these factors can be considered a limitation of the study.

The model above represents the direct effects models ( Hypotheses 1 , 2 , 3 ) and the moderation model ( Hypothesis 4 )

Demographic characteristic of respondents

Descriptive statistics and correlations

Note(s): n  = 421; standardised regression coefficients are reported

* p  < 0.10; ** p  < 0.05; *** p  < 0.01

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• Published: 10 April 2024

Environmentally sustainable fashion and conspicuous behavior

• Sae Eun Lee 1   nAff2 &
• Kyu-Hye Lee   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0002-7468-0681 1  

Humanities and Social Sciences Communications volume  11 , Article number:  498 ( 2024 ) Cite this article

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• Business and management
• Environmental studies

This study examines the impact of conspicuous consumption on environmentally sustainable fashion brands (ESFBs). Most previous studies have been limited to environmental perspectives; however, research on environmental behavior by conspicuousness has been lacking. This study views the brand as a tool for revealing oneself and examines the moderator brand–self-connection. It utilized a structural equation model with 237 valid questionnaires. Its findings are as follows: (1) Conspicuous consumption, fashion trend conspicuousness, and socially awakened conspicuousness positively affect the word-of-mouth (WOM) marketing of ESFBs. (2) Environmental belief is fully mediated by the environmental norm (EN) and does not directly affect WOM. (3) The more consumers are consistent with ESFBs, the stronger their WOM marketing. They are moderated only by the EN and socially awakened conspicuousness. (4) A higher fashion trend conspicuousness is associated with increased WOM marketing, indicating that such brands are frequently used as a method of self-expression. This study highlights consumers’ socially awakened conspicuousness and fashion trend conspicuousness in relation to ESFBs and discusses some implications.

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Mukta Garg & Apurva Bakshi

Introduction

The emergence of sustainable consumption as a new trend can be attributed to the growing environmental consciousness (Kerber et al. 2023 ; Zameer and Yasmeen, 2022 ). This is evident in the increasing involvement of fashion brands in the Fashion Pact, a global agreement aimed at promoting environmental sustainability (The Fashion Pact, 2023 ). Patagonia, a company renowned for its commitment to sustainability, conducts various activities under its corporate motto, such as using 98% recycled material and sourcing electricity from 100% renewable sources while maintaining its top position in the outdoor apparel market (Alonso, 2023 ). Additionally, non-apparel industry brands have embraced the pursuit of sustainability. Freitag, a fashion industry brand that produces recycled bags from used truck tarps, has continued to gain popularity over the past three to four years (Ga, 2022 ). Since its launch in 2017 specializing in pleated knit bags crafted from recycled yarn derived from discarded plastic bottles, Pleats Mama has experienced an annual growth rate of 150% on average (Kim, 2022a ). In response to the climate change crisis, which is exacerbated by global warming, even luxury brands such as Burberry, Prada, and Gucci have begun incorporating sustainable fashion products into their collection. Consequently, within the last five years, approximately 30% of consumers have increased their purchase of sustainable products, resulting in a 32% increase in the market share of these products (Ruiz, 2023 ; Tighe, 2023 ). In summary, brands such as Patagonia, Freitag, and Pleats Mama, which prioritize environmental sustainability, article are gaining prominence (Little, 2022 ). This is due to the growing enthusiasm of consumers towards these brands’ environmental sustainability initiatives.

Even if a given brand does not explicitly focus on environmental sustainability, environmental values and beliefs significantly influence consumers’ purchasing decisions, according to research on sustainable fashion (Apaolaza et al. 2022 ; Bianchi and Gonzalez, 2021 ; Park & Lin, 2020 ). Moreover, studies demonstrate that consumers are increasingly resorting to luxury and fast fashion brands—often regarded as the major contributors to environmental pollution—for environmental reasons. This trend is attributable to these brands’ effective sustainable marketing strategies (Neumann et al. 2020 ; Stringer et al. 2020 ; Zhang et al. 2021 ). In other words, through their marketing strategies, these brands are successfully positioning themselves as sustainable choices, which results in meaningful purchase intentions among consumers.

However, these previous studies do not consider fashion’s symbolic function or social meaning. By wearing sustainable fashion brands, consumers seek to demonstrate their commitment to environmental beliefs(EBs). Consumer behavior toward sustainable fashion is not driven by EBs. For other reasons, the purchase is made in a conspicuous context (Legere & Kang, 2020 ; Stringer et al. 2020 ). Numerous studies have documented this phenomenon, with a particular focus on certain conspicuous activities in philanthropic research. Generally known as comprising actions that are motivated by altruistic values, philanthropy is currently being evaluated in terms of its sustainability. For instance, the mission of Or Foundation, a public charity based in the USA, is to establish an alternative model of ecological prosperity (Wong, 2023 ). In fact, private philanthropy has been found to play a key role in sustainable development (Gautier and Pache, 2015 ; Porter and Kramer, 2002 ). However, although such actions spring from good intentions, they also involve certain aspects that are determined by motives other than altruism. That is, philanthropic research indicates that these endeavors are frequently associated with a desire for recognition and respect (De Dominicis et al. 2017 ; Grace and Griffin, 2009 ; Wallace et al. 2017 ). This behavior may stem from a conspicuous desire to be acknowledged by others for social awareness and to receive praise and validation from followers, particularly when such actions are shared on social networking sites (SNS) (e.g., the ice bucket challenge and bracelets for Japanese military sexual slavery grandmothers). Intending to gain respect from others, individuals tend to engage in acts that may be considered as “displaying” or “showing off,” even in the case of eco-friendly purchases and environment-related word-of-mouth (WOM) behavior.

Conspicuousness is evident in less visible charitable activities and fashion products with higher visibility and symbolic value. Regarding luxury fashion products, including those that incorporate sustainable marketing strategies, consumers may still prioritize luxury symbols for their conspicuousness, despite the significance of sustainable beliefs (Ki and Kim, 2016 ; Mishra et al. 2023 ). Consequently, it is essential to investigate whether conspicuous consumption occurs concerning environmentally sustainable fashion brands (ESFBs) rather than luxury brands. By publicly displaying one’s decision to wear an ESFB, one can establish oneself as a socially conscious individual and a fashion leader, potentially leading a new consumption trend or gaining a following. Hence, it is crucial to examine whether consumers’ choices are driven by sustainable beliefs or constitute conspicuous behavior. Consumers want to express themselves through the meaning of a brand. They believe that they “connect” with a brand and choose to wear it for its meaning (Escalas, 2004 ; Escalas and Bettman, 2003 ). Therefore, the more one connects to a brand, the more one can actively wear it to express one’s beliefs. The study’s research questions are formulated as follows:

RQ1. Do consumers truly engage in WOM behavior in relation to ESFBs based on EBs? Do they have no conspicuous intentions?

RQ2. As brands express self-concept, do consumers reinforce WOM behavior to support environmental norms (ENs) and reveal their EBs? What role does the self-brand connection of ESFB consumers play if conspicuous intentions exist?

This study aims to examine the effect of conspicuousness on consumer behavior concerning ESFBs, a topic that is yet to be examined. Conspicuousness is specifically subdivided into that of the fashion trend leader and that of a socially awakened person. Consumers who utilize ESFBs as a means of expressing their identity are confronted with the decision of whether to reinforce environmental behavior or conspicuous behavior. As a result, we must identify consumers’ purchasing motives for ESFBs and flesh out their implications.

Literature review

Environmental sustainability.

Our Common Future, which defines sustainability, posits environmental sustainability as one of the three concepts of sustainable development (society, economy, environment) (Brundtland, 2013 ). Environmental sustainability can be defined as the “maintenance of natural capital,” which involves at least the reduction of the level of resource use or depletion of environmental assets (Goodland, 1995 ). In the aftermath of global warming, concerns regarding the sustainability of natural resources have intensified due to global boiling (Arora and Mishra, 2023 ). Accordingly, environmental sustainability is becoming more important than it was before. According to Morelli ( 2011 ), sustainability is “good” and is frequently abused for expertise or contributions in a certain field, regardless of the actual effects exerted on the natural environment or ecological health. Environmental sustainability should be viewed as an essential human activity for supporting the ecosystem based on sound ecological concepts. Goodland ( 1995 ) describes environmental sustainability as a set of constraints, involving “the use of renewable and nonrenewable resources on the source side, and pollution and waste assimilation on the sink side” (p. 10). Most research on environmental sustainability focuses on exploring what should be done from an environmental perspective (Ögmundarson et al., 2020 ; Koul et al., 2022 ) and the impact each country has on the environment (Yang and Khan, 2022 ; Yang et al., 2022 ). In addition, environmental sustainability is a crucial consideration in business decision-making because it involves finding a balance between economic productivity and minimizing environmental impact (Lou et al., 2022 ). One of these is the study of secondhand consumption (Cuc & Vidovic, 2014 ; Xue et al. 2018 ). Although many companies claim to prioritize sustainability, they often focus on economic and social sustainability rather than issues of environmental sustainability (Brydges et al. 2022 ). Environmental sustainability is frequently compromised in this way for marketing strategies (Salnikova et al, 2022 ; Vesal et al. 2021 ; Villalba‐Ríos et al. 2023 ) or for achieving environmental, social, and corporate governance (ESG) (Khalil & Khalil, 2022 ; Prömpeler et al. 2023 ). Consumers are no longer fooled by sustainability marketing, which they perceive as greenwashing (Kahraman and Kazançoğlu, 2019 ; Nguyen et al. 2021 ). Accordingly, consumers base their purchases on their knowledge and awareness of brands that advocate environmental activism rather than merely participating in greenwashing (Venkatesan, 2022 ).

Sustainable fashion

Regarding environmental sustainability, the fashion industry encounters significant challenges because it consumes substantial amounts of water, energy, and chemicals while generating disposal problems (Lou et al., 2022 ). At a time when consumer demand for ESG is increasing, various sustainable fashion initiatives have emerged in the industry. Various green branding and eco-labeling initiatives, as well as sustainable logistics practices, have been implemented (Sandberg and Hultberg, 2021 ). H&M and Zara, representative fast fashion brands, are also implementing various sustainable strategies in line with this trend (Dzhengiz et al. 2023 ; Rathore, 2022 ). The growing platform for secondhand fashion after the COVID-19 pandemic serves as a representative example (Kim and Kim, 2022 ). However, many consumers view sustainability assertions in the fashion industry as mere marketing strategies (i.e., greenwashing) and express doubts about the genuineness of these efforts (Szabo and Webster, 2021 ). Brydges et al. ( 2022 ) have also examined the communication strategies employed by fashion companies and found that consumers perceive these strategies as a form of greenwashing aimed at selling sustainability. These concerns have made certain fashion brands, such as Freitag and Patagonia, shift their focus to environmental sustainability. To evaluate the impact of sustainability, Patagonia specifically established the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and spearheaded efforts to develop the Higg Index. This company has developed new processes to address environmental issues and prioritized recycling fibers and using recycled textiles to reduce their landfill waste (Bhuiyan et al. 2023 ; Pandey et al. 2020 ). Consumers are actively supporting and consuming brands that genuinely prioritize environmental sustainability as opposed to merely engaging in greenwashing practices. Consumption is increasing for ESFBs that adhere to the “maintenance of natural capital” (Rathore, 2022 ). However, focus on consumer behavior toward ESFBs is still lacking; thus, it is necessary to investigate consumer perceptions and behaviors concerning these brands.

Hypothesis development

Environmental beliefs and norms.

Consumers are cognizant of the seriousness of environmental pollution and are actively implementing eco-friendly actions. EBs are unshakeable beliefs or attitudes that guide individuals to decide to protect the environment (Gray et al., 1985 ). Inglehart ( 1995 , 1997 ) asserted that as the economy develops and modernizes, EB emerges because people are concerned about the environmental state. Thus, developed country consumers are likely to recognize ESFBs and consume them, knowing that the promotion of various sustainable brands is a marketing strategy (greenwashing) due to the high EB. Environmental norm (EN) is an important and strong motivating factor that influences environmental behaviors and signifies a sense of responsibility or moral obligation to the environment. Additionally, activated and internalized EB helps in overcoming obstacles to individual behavior based on a sense of duty (Babcock, 2009 ). These EBs and ENs are mainly used for research on eco-friendly behaviors, especially those grounded in Stern’s ( 2000 ) value-belief-norm (VBN) theory. Based on the VBN theory, it is hypothesized that individuals with strong environmental values and norms are more likely to engage in sustainable consumption practices, thereby resulting in better environmental behaviors. Additionally, it is expected that consumers in developed countries will exhibit a greater propensity to recognize greenwashing and to consider environmental values and norms, especially when purchasing from environmentally sustainable fashion brands (ESFBs). Furthermore, it is widely believed that ENs serve as a crucial mediator in the relationship between EBs and eco-friendly behaviors, as supported by previous research in areas such as green cosmetics and green hotels (Jaini et al., 2020 ; Ruan et al., 2022 ).

The hypothesis is as follows:

Hypothesis (H1) . EB positively affects EN .

WOM plays a vital role in shaping consumer attitudes and purchasing behavior (Yang et al, 2012 ). Furthermore, with the widespread use of SNS, e-WOM has enabled consumers to easily access evaluations and opinions about various products and services. WOM is a widely applied factor in marketing, and 61% of key marketers select it as one of the most effective marketing tools (Berger, 2014 ). Consumers are gradually adopting more environmentally conscious purchasing practices as their awareness of the environmental impact of their purchasing decisions grows. Specifically, it has been discovered that the acquisition of diverse environmental information through SNS platforms contributes to the growth of pro-environmental behavior (Jain et al. 2020 ). The WOM intention for eco-friendly products refers to the communication between consumers and other people or groups (such as social channels, friends, and relatives.) of experiences about the purchase of such products (Chaniotakis and Lymperopoulos, 2009 ). A significant correlation, according to Chun et al. ( 2018 ), exists between environmental value, belief, attitude, and WOM intention for upcycling products. Gatersleben et al. ( 2002 ) assert that EB can be formed through value awareness and lead to specific behavioral intentions. According to Panda et al. ( 2020 ), environmental sustainability awareness positively impacts both green purchase intention and green brand evangelism. In addition, previous studies have demonstrated that EBs directly influence pro-environmental behavioral intentions and attitudes toward ecotourism (Li et al. 2021 ; Nguyen & Le, 2020 ). As noted in prior research on VBN theory, ENs impact environmental behavior (Stern et al. 1999 ; Stern, 2000 ). Certain studies have examined the influence of norms on predicting pro-environmental attitudes. According to Jansson et al. ( 2010 ), EB, EN, and habit influence Swedish consumers’ willingness to purchase green products. Bakti et al. ( 2020 ) found that different norms (subjective, moral, environmental) affect the WOM regarding the use of public transportation for environmental reasons. Hence, both EBs and ENs significantly influence the WOM behavior toward a brand.

Hypothesis (H2) . EB positively affects WOM .

Hypothesis (H3) . EN positively affects WOM .

Conspicuousness on WOM

The goal-framing theory, proposed by Lindenberg ( 2000 , 2001 , 2008 ), elucidates how goals influence human perception, thoughts, and decision-making processes. According to this theory, human needs can be categorized into three types: gain goals, which involve knowledge and information acquisition; normative goals, which emphasize appropriate behavior based on social norms; and hedonic goals, which prioritize perceived pleasure. In each situation, one goal is typically prioritized over the others; these goals coexist and form a frame through mutual competition. Lindenberg and Steg ( 2007 ) applied the goal-framing theory to explain pro-environmental and pro-social behaviors. They proposed that individuals who prioritize the normative goal are increasingly likely to engage in eco-friendly actions. In contrast, those who prioritize gain and hedonic goals may engage in non-eco-friendly behaviors. This theory has been utilized to support research on various consumer behaviors, including those influenced by environmental beliefs, norms, and other goals and motivations (Mishra et al., 2023 ; Yang et al. 2020 ). Additionally, the pursuit of hedonic goals can explain why consumers pursuing conflicting goals, including normative goals for eco-friendly behavior, may still engage in eco-friendly actions. Liobikienė and Juknys ( 2016 ) contended that individuals with hedonic goals may occasionally engage in environmentally friendly behavior with pleasure and joy. Mishra et al. ( 2023 ) examined the use of the luxury sharing economy in emerging markets. They found that consumer behavior was significantly influenced by the hedonic goal of conspicuousness.

Previous research discovered that conspicuous consumption has a static effect on sustainable clothing purchase intention (Apaolaza et al. 2022 ; Hammad et al. 2019 ). Because sustainable fashion products are fashion goods, they have the characteristics of fashion, such as trends, styles, and symbols. Unlike other sustainable products, a fashion product cannot ignore the attributes of fashion. Clothing is especially used as a means of self-expression. This is because the values and thoughts conveyed through clothing are symbolic and communicate meaning to others. Prior research on sustainable fashion has examined aspects of flaunting one’s social status and showcasing the latest trends in fashion. Additionally, Cervellon and Shammas ( 2013 ) validated the conspicuousness of the symbol of sustainable luxury products. A pursuit of personal style, as demonstrated by Ki and Kim ( 2016 ) enables consumers to make sustainable luxury purchases. The study on sustainable fashion consumption conducted by Lundblad and Davies ( 2016 ) also identified self-expression as a significant determinant. Therefore, showcasing an eco-friendly image, which involves being socially awake and positioning oneself as a fashion leader, can affect WOM, an active eco-friendly purchasing behavior. The following hypotheses can be made:

Hypothesis (H4) . Fashion trend conspicuousness (FTC) positively affects WOM .

Hypothesis (H5) . Social awaken conspicuousness (SAC) positively affects WOM .

Self-brand connection

Self-concept serves as the foundation for symbolic consumption; it originates from the motivation of self-enhancement and maintenance of self-esteem, which express individual values and is interpreted as behavior for social adoption (Greenwald & Farnham, 2000 ; Shavitt, 1990 ). Consumers feel a “sense of self-definition” by consuming products and services and communicating about them to others. That is why they identify with a brand and prefer a brand that can reflect and express their self-concept. In other words, consumers may use a brand as a physical representation of themselves to establish a connection with it; this is known as self-brand connect (SBC) (Escalas, 2004 ; Escalas and Bettman, 2003 ).

SBC positively correlates with behavioral intention, such as brand choice and loyalty, as well as brand attitudes (Escalas, 2004 , Moore and Homer, 2008 ; Naletelich and Spears, 2020 ). When the self-image aligns with the brand’s image is congruent, and when the brand can protect and enhance the self-image, there will be an increase in purchases and loyal customers for the brand. In addition, in comparison to consumers with low SBC, those with strong SBC utilize the brand primarily for self-expression, have more favorable evaluations of the brand, and have higher behavioral intentions. Conversely, consumers with low SBC tend to have low motivation to express their true selves through the brand and have a low attachment to the brand (Ferraro et al. 2013 ).

Consumers are increasingly cognizant of the issue of greenwashing, which is not truly sustainable, and are reluctant to purchase greenwashing brands (Apaolaza et al. 2022 ). The more consumers believe they are eco-friendly, the more likely they are to perceive a sustainable brand as greenwashing and passionately consume more environmentally sustainable brands. In other words, consumers must establish a profound emotional bond with the ESFB that reflects their eco-friendly beliefs and images. Therefore, consumers who express their environmental identity with environmentally sustainable brand (ESB) can be expected to reinforce eco-friendly behavior. The following hypotheses can be made:

Hypothesis (H6a) . SBC moderates between EB and WOM

Hypothesis (H6b) . SBC moderates between EN and WOM

Consumers utilize the brand’s symbolism to show off their identity. Apaolaza et al. ( 2022 ) asserted that a sustainable brand can increase purchase intention through conspicuousness when perceived as useful. In other words, if the utility of revealing one’s identity increases, the possibility of consumption behavior such as WOM increases. Meanwhile, if ESFBs represent their identity, but have a strong motivation to reveal that they are socially aware of eco-friendliness, then it is likely to be used as a means of conspicuousness. The following hypotheses can be made (Fig. 1 ):

Research framework.

Hypothesis (H6c) . SBC moderates between FTC and WOM

Hypothesis (H6d) . SBC moderates between SAC and WOM .

Sample and data collection

The survey focused on fashion brands that prioritize environmental sustainability. First, the concept of ESFBs was explained to university students in the classroom, and brands were recommended to them. The process of brand selection involved considering the definition of environmental sustainability, which we established as the “maintenance of natural capital.” In doing so, we assessed each brand according to the information provided on their websites regarding their corporate philosophy and manufacturing method. Specifically, brands that promote recycling, reusing, and reclaiming, such as utilizing recycled polyethylene terephthalate yarn or repurposing discarded materials, were selected. To confirm whether the selected brand was suitable to be classified as an ESFB, two professors and three doctoral students confirmed the definition of ESFB and face validity. After checking the current awareness of the selected brands using a preliminary survey of 28 graduate students, three brands were ultimately selected as ESFBs in descending order of popularity: Patagonia (USA), Pleat Mama (Korea), and Freitag (Switzerland). Considering Korea’s tendency for other-oriented consumption, questionnaires were administered to Korean individuals aged between 20 and 40 years (Park et al., 2008 ). This demographic was considered suitable for examining tendencies toward conspicuous consumption of ESFBs. The survey focused on the participants’ purchasing experiences or intentions regarding Patagonia, Pleat Mama, and Freitag. The online survey required participants to indicate whether they had experience purchasing the brands in the past before proceeding to the main question. If they had no prior purchase experience with the brands in question, respondents were further asked regarding their purchase intention toward the brands. Only those with high scores proceeded to the main question. Furthermore, the survey was restricted to respondents who recognized the three brands in question as ESFBs. Data was collected through e-mail, facilitated by an online survey company, which also motivated the participants with rewards. Out of the initial 260 respondents who completed the questionnaire, 237 responses were considered reliable after removing the inconsistent or unreliable responses.

Respondents’ characteristics

The demographics of the 237 sampled respondents are as follows: 17.7% were in their 20 s, 37.6% were in their 30 s, and 44.7% were in their 40 s. The average age of 37.37 years was recorded. Of the respondents, 18.1 and 81.9% were men and women, respectively. Several previous studies have exhibited gender effects on sustainable consumption, indicating that women are more active than men (Bloodhart and Swim, 2020 ; Kim, 2022b ). As such, instead of following the population ratio, it can be argued that the sample in this study is representative of the market segment. Of the respondents, 90.7% had a high level of educational background, with the majority holding master’s degrees. The average monthly clothing expenditures of the respondents were $50–100 (37.1%) and $100–200 (27.8%). Table 1 provides more details.

Measurement

In this study, the measurement tools used to identify sustainable fashion WOM, such as belief, concern, and conspicuousness, are as follows. EB scale and EN both consisted of six questions, following Stern ( 2000 ). FTC was composed of three items, as stated by Ki and Kim ( 2016 ). SAC was composed of four items, following Grace and Griffin ( 2009 ), while WOM for consumer brands was also four items, as described by Molinari et al. ( 2008 ). Six items were in SBC, following van der Westhuizen ( 2018 ). All items were measured utilizing a five-point Likert scale (1 = strongly disagree to 5 = strongly agree). The final section was composed of questions regarding demographic information (Table 1 ).

Measurement validity and reliability

Partial least squares structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM), which is an efficient method for predicting latent variables, minimizes estimation errors. In contrast, AMOS-based SEM, which is covariance-based, is more suitable for analyzing and testing theories in the social sciences (Dash and Paul, 2021 ; Mia et al. 2019 ). Furthermore, the basic assumption of AMOS entails a normal distribution with a minimum sample size of 200 or more, and this is satisfied by this study. Additionally, AMOS (CB-SEM) utilizes the maximum likelihood estimation that is significant to the parameter estimation (Stevens, 2009 ; Westfall and Henning, 2013 ). To verify the reliability and validity of the measurement variables used here, we performed a confirmatory factor analysis (Table 2 ). The model exhibited an acceptable fit: GFI = 0.908; CFI = 0.969; NFI = 0.928; RMR = 0.033; RMSEA = 0.055; χ 2  = 233.328 (d f  = 137); p  < 0.000; normed χ 2  = 1.703. All the items in the model were significant. To verify the convergence validity of the measurement model, we confirmed the significance levels of the average variance extracted (AVE), composite reliability (CR), and factor loading (Hair et al., 2010 ). The factor loading of the measurement variable was significant at the 1% level. The AVE and CR values were 0.519–0.790 and 0.764–0.933, respectively; these values are considered high. The Cronbach’s α , which measures reliability, was more than 0.7; thus, internal consistency was confirmed.

Discriminant validity was measured in this study using Fornell and Larcker’s ( 1981 ) recommendations suggested. It refers to a state in which researchers identify that each indicator of a theoretical model differs statistically. It can be calculated by comparing AVE with squared correlations. It is supported when the AVE among each pair of constructs is greater than Φ 2 (i.e., the squared correlation between two constructs) (Table 3 ).

Hyperthesis testing

To verify our hypotheses, we performed an analysis of the covariance structure model. The results are illustrated in Fig. 1 . The hypothesized structural model generated a good fit ( χ 2  = 106.982, df  = 82, p  = 0.033, Normed χ 2  = 1.305, GFI = 0.945, CFI = 0.987, RMR = 0.029, TLI = 0.984, RMSEA = 0.036). EB positively affected EC ( β  = 0.783, p  < 0.000); thus, H1 was supported. The structural model analysis indicated that EB was not affected by WOM ( β  = −0.160, p  = 0.223). Thus, H2 is rejected. EC positively affected WOM ( β  = 0.265, p  < 0.05); thud, H3 is supported. FTC ( β  = 0.219, p  < 0.01) and SAC ( β  = 0.545, p  < 0.001) positively affected WOM; thus, H4 and H5 are supported. The outcomes of the hypothesis testing are presented in Table 4 .

Moderating effect of self-brand connection

The results of the chi-square difference test between the unconstrained model and the measurement weight model were Δ χ 2  = 21.970, d f  = 13, and p  = 0.059. The non-significant change in model fit indicated that the factor loadings were invariant between the two groups, confirming the full measurement-invariance model. For SBC with an EB-WOM link, no significance was detected for the high (β = -0.221, p  = 0.240) and low ( β  = −0.174, p  = 0.317) groups, and no significant differences in path strength were detected by SBC(Δ χ 2  = 0.053, p  > 0.05). The effect of EN on WOM was significant for high ( β  = 0.406, p  < 0.05) and low ( β  = 0.188, p  = 0.343) groups, while those with high EN(Δ χ 2  = 5.049, p  < 0.05) were significantly stronger. For SBC with an FTC-WOM link, no significance was detected for the high ( β  = 0.059, p  = 0.638) and low ( β  = 0.337, p  < 0.01) groups, and no significant differences in path strength were detected by SBC(Δ χ 2  = 3.170, p  > 0.05).

The effect of SAC on WOM was significant for the high ( β  = 0.691, p  < 0.000) and low ( β  = 0.174, p  = 0.121) groups, while those with high SAC (Δ χ 2  = 4.713, p  < 0.05) were significantly stronger. Thus, H6a and H6c were rejected, whereas H6b and H6d were found to be moderate between EN/SAC and WOM in this study (Table 5 ).

As sustainability is perceived as a marketing strategy, greenwashing, many consumers are engaging in consumption behavior toward true ESFBs. Previous studies on sustainable brands did not focus on ESFB, which concentrates on “maintenance of natural capital” such as fiber recycling and the use of recycled fibers. Particularly, fashion products have a way of showing off as symbolism; therefore, studies are focusing on sustainable fashion brands. However, it is necessary to examine whether conspicuousness exists in ESFB. Our findings were as follows:

First, both conspicuous consumption, FTC and SAC, positively impacted ESFB’s WOM. This is a remarkably interesting result, inducing consumer behavior even more strongly than EB. Due to greenwashing, consumers are more enthusiastic about ESFB than sustainable brands. However, this also confirms that consumers choose ESFB to show off as socially advanced and awakened persons. Showing off as a person who is more aware of the environment than others constitutes WOM. This was also chosen by ESFB as a way to flaunt themselves, and it can be viewed in the same context as the previous conspicuousness of charity. ESFB was also discovered to possess an inherent fashion attribute, in addition to the FTC. This is believed to be because ESFBs possess fashion characteristics. Because of the presence of visibility and symbolism, which are the characteristics of fashion, wearing an ESFB can convey the symbol and value of those brands to the observer. This phenomenon is consistent with previous sustainable fashion research (Apaolaza et al. 2022 ; Cervellon and Shammas, 2013 ; Hammad et al. 2019 ). In other words, consumers can show off themselves as socially awakened beings by wearing an EFSB and as trailblazers in fashion trends. Therefore, it will be necessary for a sustainable fashion company to not only put an emphasis on sustainability but also endeavor to reflect the latest fashion trends. Furthermore, brands’ self-image conspicuousness requirements must be met.

Second, it was established that EB had no direct effect as a factor that influenced ESFB’s WOM. This result contradicts the finding that EB directly affects pro-environmental behavior (Li et al. 2021 ; Nguyen & Le, 2020 ). However, in addition to the relationship between EN and EB, as proposed by Stern et al. ( 1999 ) and Stern ( 2000 ) in their VBN theory, ESBN further validates the indirect effect that EB causes behavior through EN. It also supports the goal-framing theory, which posits that normative goals further enhance pro-environmental behavior (Lindenberg and Steg, 2007 ). Because EN is the only way to act eco-friendly, it can be confirmed that consumers should focus more on EN rather than EB, notwithstanding the quality of ESFB.

Third, it was discovered that the strength of WOM increased with the degree of ESFB consistency and only moderated in EN and SAC. EN was a norm that was influenced by surroundings. When engaging in WOM communication by EN companies, consumers who strongly identify with eco-friendly values are more likely to participate in WOM actively. This can reveal through ESFB that they follow the norms well; thus, these actions were a means of showing one’s compliance with the norms. Through the ESFB identity, they increasingly demonstrated their commitment to eco-friendly norms.

In addition, fashion brands hold symbolic value, and higher FTC is associated with increased WOM, indicating that these brands are often used to express one’s identity. Fashion leaders who aim to showcase their fashion-forward image tend to purchase brands that align with their innovative fashion identity. This is why they prefer high-end fashion brands. However, within the framework of ESFBs, this research failed to identify any significant moderating effect between FTC and SBC. Although not statistically significant, individuals with low SBC exhibited a greater intensity of WOM. This finding contradicts previous studies (Apaolaza et al. 2022 ; Hammad et al. 2019 ), which suggested that WOM is stronger among individuals with higher fashion conspicuousness who want to showcase their identity. True sustainability is the identity associated with ESFBs. The finding that WOM is stronger among individuals who do not want to emphasize their eco-friendliness can be attributed to their desire to showcase fashion trends rather than the brand’s eco-friendliness.

This study has several academic and practical implications. First, it expands the existing research on ESFBs by examining their WOM marketing and the conspicuousness associated with consumers buying them. Although prior studies on sustainable fashion focus solely on sustainability aspects, this study acknowledges the existence of FTC and SBC as well. In future research, incorporating consumers’ FTC and SBC into the research model can enhance its explanatory power and provide a comprehensive understanding of ESFBs. Second, fashion trends must be reflected in ESFBs as well. Sustainable fashion research focuses on exploring consumer perceptions of sustainability and marketing strategies. However, as demonstrated by this study, ESFBs are still fashion brands; therefore, they appeal to consumers by staying updated with the latest trends. When consumer interest in sustainability is high, it becomes crucial to develop merchandising strategies that incorporate sustainability while simultaneously attending to the latest fashion trends. Thus, ESFBs necessarily consider prevailing trends as well. Third, this study also emphasizes the necessity of incorporating true environmental sustainability into consumer education. For example, a curriculum or training program aimed at identifying authentic ESFBs, as opposed to those that simply engage in greenwashing, will assist consumers in making informed judgments. Ultimately, this will benefit the environment by discouraging companies from engaging in greenwashing by increasing consumer awareness. Fourth, this study highlights the influence of SBC on ESFBs. Although philanthropy has been extensively studied, the significance of SBC in the context of ESFBs cannot be overlooked. Companies that focus on ESFBs must consider their role in society and strategically utilize SBC, making it more than just a fashion or environmental strategy. Fifth, this study proposes that individuals who are more sensitive to the attention of others are more likely to engage in WOM marketing for ESFBs, with consequences for companies. Moreover, advertising campaigns that capitalize on the identity of individuals who have a strong connection to ESFBs have the potential to exert an effective influence. Lastly, companies that actively pursue social and economic sustainability, rather than environmental sustainability, can prevent consumers’ misunderstanding of greenwashing, especially if they actively implement other sustainability marketing strategies instead of emphasizing ambiguous environmental aspects. In addition, conspicuous consumption promotes social sustainability; therefore, it must be utilized.

This study has a few limitations and provides suggestions for future research. First, an insufficient amount of exploration was conducted on ESFBs. Conducting quantitative research to understand consumer rationale behind the definition of ESFBs and perceptions could provide valuable insights. Therefore, qualitative studies that explore various aspects of conspicuousness related to ESFBs may yield more comprehensive and explanatory results.

Second, to measure SBC, we relied on a simple connection with eco-friendly brands. This may have led to contrasting results when considering fashion-related variables as moderators. Future research could consider refining the measurement of SBC by incorporating more comprehensive and nuanced indicators. Additionally, utilizing qualitative research methods, such as phenomenological studies, could provide a more in-depth exploration of consumer conspicuousness, leading to a broader and more intriguing range of findings concerning ESFBs. This approach may reveal a positive relationship between SBC and fashion-related variables.

Lastly, due to the specific target population of the survey, the generalizability of the findings is limited. The results may have been influenced by the collectivist nature of the surveyed population, which tends to pay more attention to their surroundings. However, it is crucial to consider that ESFBs are also growing in individualistic cultures in the West. Therefore, future studies should investigate potential differences in conspicuousness related to ESFBs among culturally distinct groups, thereby providing insights into cross-cultural variations in the phenomenon.

Conclusions

This study highlights the importance of fashion companies recognizing the evolving consumer perceptions of sustainable consumption due to the prevalence of greenwashing marketing. It is crucial for ESBs to understand that they possess both fashion and conspicuous attributes. Therefore, these brands should incorporate these attributes into their fashion products. Specifically, they should ensure that their products reflect not only the latest fashion trends but also align with consumers’ desire for self-image conspicuousness. Consequently, even as ESBs, companies should not overlook the significance of incorporating the latest trends into their products. By launching products that integrate the pursuit of sustainability with the latest trends, these companies have the potential to build customer brand loyalty.

Data availability

The datasets generated and/or analyzed during the current study are available from the corresponding author upon reasonable request.

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Lee, S.E., Lee, KH. Environmentally sustainable fashion and conspicuous behavior. Humanit Soc Sci Commun 11 , 498 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1057/s41599-024-02955-0

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